Here we aim to explain the differences between Central American boas, and their Columbian Redtail boa cousins. There is a lot of confusion when it comes to identifying species of boa constrictors and the truth is it’s because these snakes look very much the same! They have similar markings, temperaments, and even body shapes making it tough to identify exactly which species or subspecies you’re dealing with.
The two most common species of boa constrictors kept as pets are the Central American Boa (Boa c. constrictor), also known as the “Common Boa,” and the Colombian Red Tail Boa (Boa c. imperator). Often times herp hobbyists will abbreviate these animals to B.C.C. (Boa c. constrictor/Common boa) and B.C.I. (Boa constrictor imperator/Colombian Red Tail Boa). For brevity’s sake, we will also adopt those terms for the remainder of this article.
Central American Boa – B.c.c. or Common Boa.
Because these two snake species can look so similar physically, let’s start off by noting some of the differences you can actually see when you examine the snakes. In general, B.C.I.s are heavier-bodied animals than the B.C.C.s and they will possess very red-colored tail spots (hence their name) with distinctly darker outlines. These tail spots can range from a bright red to a brick/ochre red, but they will definitely be red and not brown like the B.C.C.’s tail. B.C.I.s will also be lighter in overall complexion than the B.C.C.s.
Colombian Red Tailed Boa or B.c.i. boa.
The main differences of these animals however, comes from their place of origin in the wild. Because there is much debate and discussion over which specific regions in which specific countries each species of snake originates from, we’ll keep it simple and say that B.C.C.s are more readily found in the wild with a wider home range and are therefore less expensive than B.C.I.s. It’s best to find out from your supplier/breeder which country or area your snake or it’s ancestors came from as they tend to keep records of this information to maintain purity of genetics.
Central American Boa or B. constrictor constrictor. Notice it’s rather dark complexion.
Ever wondered how to pick up a scorpion? Any pet that lives in a contained environment, whether it’s a traditional glass tank, a specialty vivarium, or even a wire or mesh cage, will need its enclosure cleaned from time to time. Because this is also true of venomous pet scorpions, this blog entry will demonstrate how to pick up and handle your scorpion when the time comes to remove it from its enclosure.
First of all, most people who keep scorpions as pets are aware that these invertebrates are not domesticated animals and are generally best left to their own devices. Scorpions are not pets that should be handled, petted, or otherwise coddled like traditional pets. They do best when observed and not disturbed. In other words, Backwater Reptiles does not recommend taking your scorpion out of its enclosure unless it’s necessary for the animal’s health.
When you pick up your scorpion, grab it at the tip of the tail just beneath the stinger using your index finger and thumb. This will prevent the animal from whipping its tail and injecting you with venom.
Use two fingers to firmly yet gently grip the tip of the scorpion’s tail when attempting to move the animal. We squeeze on either side, just below the stinger.
Once you have a firm but not too tight grasp on the tip of the scorpion’s tail, gently but efficiently lift the animal up and transfer it to your desired destination. Be aware that the animal will more than likely wriggle, so it’s wise to move quickly for your own safety and to eliminate stressing the scorpion.
Bulky and hefty scorpions such as the Asian Forest Scorpion (Heterometrus longimanus) or the Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus imperator) are easiest to move using the two finger grab method because in general they are slower and less feisty than other species.
If you’re dealing with a species such as the Desert Hairy Scorpion (Hadrurus arizonensis) that tend to be rather aggressive, we advise using tongs or tweezers. This is because when the scorpion species is more agile, it can reach around with its front pedipalps or pincer claws and pinch your fingers, which is not a pleasant experience.
Use tongs or tweezers when picking up feisty scorpion species such as this Desert Hairy Scorpion. Their claws can reach back above them.
If you’re interested in a pet scorpion of your own, Backwater Reptiles offers a variety of scorpion species for sale.
Have you developed any tricks for picking up your pet scorpion that we didn’t mention? Let us know your experiences in the comments!
We recently gave our customers and fans the opportunity to ask us anything about reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates via our Facebook page. The results are in and now we are answering the top two questions.
Question One from R. Lorenz
“About what age do bearded dragons reach sexual maturity? I have two, a four year old male and a 6 month old – who up until last week was by all external signs a female. Very submissive, waving and bobbing and baring the throat, then all of a sudden it started displaying a black beard and the glands on its pelvis are just now starting to show (barely pin points that weren’t there before). The only time any aggression is shown to the adult beardie (who is not aggressive towards the baby at all other than defending himself) is in their mutual basking spot. Anywhere else in the house and the baby is still submissive. They have been together outside the cage (under supervision) and sleeping together since the baby was about 3 months. This just took us by surprise. I have heard of them morphing from one sex to the other, can that really happen?”
Question One Answer
In all of our combined experience at Backwater Reptiles, not a one of us has ever witnessed a Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps) swapping gender. However, just because we haven’t seen it doesn’t mean it can’t happen.
In fact, studies like this one discussed in National Geographic show that gender of Beardies can be swapped based upon temperature…however, this phenomenon only occurred while the lizards were still in their eggs.
Bearded dragons generally reach sexual maturity by eight to twelve months of age. This is the point at which their genders can truly be distinguished. Breeders can use certain tricks to help distinguish between the sexes prior to the sexual maturity mark, but it is not always a guarantee that you will end up with the gender you had in mind if you purchase a lizard prior to the sexual maturity mark.
If the aggression between your male Beardies continues to worsen, sadly, you will have to separate them. You can always try offering a larger enclosure for the two lizards with two separate basking areas first though if you still want to try to keep them housed together.
Question two from M. Zimmerman
“Don’t get me wrong, my Columbian Rainbow Boa, Ssssasha is a very healthy snake. But would it harm my snake if I was to feed it thawed mice with a sprinkle of vitamin/calcium powder? Also would that make her grow quicker and better? Or is it best to just feed her regular thawed mice?”
Question Two Answer
Professional snake breeders and most hobbyists don’t consider it necessary to dust their feeders, whether the snake is eating mice, rats, or even larger mammals like rabbits.
It’s not likely going to harm Ssssasha if you feed her dusted mice, however it’s also unlikely that she will grow any faster.
Columbian rainbow boa (Epicrates cenchria)
Snakes get all the nutrition they need from the critters they eat and if you are feeding your Rainbow boa rodents, she should be getting all the proper vitamins and minerals she needs naturally.
Probably more important to Sssssasha’s growth rate and overall health is the amount that she is eating and the frequency that she is offered mice. Most snakes will eat twice a week when they are juveniles and as they mature, they can be fed once per week or even every other week depending on the species. The bottom line is that the more you feed your snake (and this is true of any species not just Columbian rainbow boas), the quicker it will grow.
One of our juvenile Green Anacondas (Eunectes murinus) eating a fuzzy.
Thanks to everyone who submitted a question to be answered. We’ll post another question and answer session in the future.
What do Horned lizards eat? That’s a question many well-intentioned reptile hobbyists ask when their pet Horned lizard won’t eat various common feeder insects. As is usually the case, it’s important to educate yourself before you purchase one of these fascinating lizards as a pet. When properly set up, they can make long-lived pet lizards.
“Horned toads,” as they are often called due to their squatty appearance, are members of the Phrynosoma family and are spread across North and Central America. There are thirteen recognized species in all, with most occurring within the United States.
Horned lizards prefer to eat ants. They’re a wonderful species but need to be fed correctly for long-term success.
What do Horned Lizards Eat?
The Problem: It’s pretty simple. Generally speaking, Horned lizards eat ants in the wild. Harvester ants are often preferred (be careful, they bite!), but they will consume common black ants as well (not the tiny red ones). Collecting enough ants can be very difficult, although you can attract them with just about any over-ripe fruit. But, there’s a trick that can make things much simpler…
The Solution: The easiest method is to switch them over to appropriately-sized crickets, which most of them will readily do. There’s one very important catch–Horned lizards require formic acid in their diet. They get this from ants in the wild, so it will need to be replaced if you feed them crickets instead. How can this be done? Simple.
Fortunately, we have a supplement available that’s specifically for Horned lizards. It’s a powder that you simply dust feeder insects with, and immediately offer them to your Horned lizard. Presto! You’ve now replaced the formic acid your pet lizard previously derived from consuming ants. You can purchase this product on our Horned lizard page using the drop-down menu on our horned lizard page.
Formic acid is required in all Horned lizard diets.
Using the above care tips, your pet Horned lizard can enjoy a long lifespan on a formic acid supplemented diet of crickets, mealworms, beetles, and grasshoppers.
We hope our “What do Horned lizards eat?” blog article has helped explain this unique reptile’s specialized diet in a way that is both applicable and relevant to your situation. If you have any questions, just let us know. If you’re ready to keep your own pet Horned lizard, we offer them for sale on our reptile website.
Ever wondered about snake myths–what’s true, what’s not? We know that reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates are not animals that all people would see as suitable pets for many reasons. Maybe these animals are perceived as too dangerous, too tricky to care for, or even just downright scary to some people.
In this blog article, we’ll lay out the top five most common snake myths we’ve heard and simply debunk them.
Myth #5 – Snakes are slimy
We hear this one a lot, mostly from people who have never handled a snake in real life or have never known anyone who has owned or handled a snake.
Baby ball python – definitely not a slimy animal. :)
The truth is, snakes have rather dry skin ranging from rough and semi-serrated in texture like a rattlesnake’s skin or smooth and iridescent like a python or boa. Their skin is definitely NOT slimy.
Myth #4 – A large constrictor snake will gladly eat your infant or small dog
While there have been tales of infants being snatched from cradles or small dogs going missing in wild Floridian neighborhoods, overall the idea that snakes want to seek out and eat our small loved ones (and pets) is just bogus.
One of our baby boa constrictors eating a pinkie mouse.
While it is true that certain species of snakes grow large enough to easily consume a baby or chihuahua, if you keep a snake that large in your home, odds are it’s being fed well. Most people keeping snakes that large have plenty of experience with them and know how to handle and maintain them. These animals are offered food regularly and therefore have no reason to escape from their enclosure to terrorize and consume small mammals or people.
Myth #3 – Snakes drink milk
This is a myth that’s been popularized due to images and videos seen from the Indian festival of Nag Panchami where snakes and images of snakes are worshipped.
Snakes are not mammals and therefore have never possessed the ability to digest milk, even at infancy. The reason snakes, often cobras, are seen drinking milk at Nag Panchami is because they are stressed and dehydrated for 30 to 45 days prior to the festival. Wouldn’t you drink milk too if you were that thirsty?
Don’t give your snake milk to drink.
Another reason this myth might’ve come into existence is because snakes are often times found in barns where cows live. Naturally, people assumed that the snakes were hanging out in the barns to be near where the food/milk was. This is partially true. While snakes are attracted to food in the barn, the food for them is not the milk – it’s the mice, rats, and other small mammals that might take refuge inside the barn. The cows are of no interest to them.
Myth #2 – Snakes can hypnotize
We think the origin of this myth probably has a lot to do with Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book and its various iterations. In the novel, the snake Kaa can hypnotize his prey into his waiting jaws and this is especially highlighted in the animated Walt Disney adaptation where Kaa’s eyes go all spirally and he tries to eat Mowgli. But remember – it is just a story and that Disney movie is just a cartoon. :)
Image of Kaa the snake hypnotizing Mowgli in Disney’s “The Jungle Book.”
Snakes also don’t possess eyelids and certain species will sway gently, so it’s easy to see how this behavior could be interpreted as hypnosis. However, just because an animal can’t blink doesn’t mean its trying to coerce you into being eaten.
Myth #1 – Snakes are scary
This is the only myth that is actually somewhat open to interpretation. While we try to show people the good side of snakes and what cool and interesting creatures they are, some people just have snake phobias, which are, by definition, irrational fears.
Leucistic ball python in a heart shape.
While it is very true that snakes should be respected as predators in the wild, most kept in captivity are no threat to people. Most people are far too big for even an anaconda to eat. And most snakes that are kept as pets are not venomous and don’t even have large fangs to bite with.
By no means are we saying that there aren’t dangerous species of snakes out there, particularly in the wild. But the ones that are commonly kept as pets aren’t out to get you – they won’t chase you or seek you out in your sleep or try to hypnotize you into feeding yourself to them. They’re happy to eat their mice/rats, bask in their heat lamps, be taken out of their cage from time to time, and take refuge in their hidey holes when they don’t feel like being social.
What did you think of the snake myths we debunked? What snake myths have you heard that we didn’t address?
