How long do Leopard geckos live? Leopard gecko lifespans are often impressively long in captivity, especially when compared to other lizards of similar size, such as anoles and swifts, which usually live for a maximum of 2-3 years. This longevity, coupled with their extreme ease of care, makes these lizards perhaps the best pet reptile in the world.
Here’s one of our big hypo Tangerine carrot-tail leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius), one whose lifespan we expect to be well over a decade.
Female Leopard Gecko Lifespan
Female leopard geckos can easily live for 7-10 years, although this pales in comparison to how long the males can live (see below). The reason females don’t live as long as males is primarily because they repeatedly go through the physically taxing process of mating, reproduction, and egg laying.
Developing and laying two eggs up to eight times each year places an incredible demand upon their relatively small bodies, yet they do so year after year.
Eventually, however, it catches up with them. Females can breed successfully at around 50 grams in weight, but doing so at such a sub-adult size can stifle their growth and shorten their lifespan. The longer female Leopard geckos can go without breeding and reproducing, the longer their lifespan.
Male Leopard Gecko Lifespan
Male Leopard geckos, on the flip-side of the coin, can have extraordinarily long lifespans, with some living past 25 years of age! Yes, you read that correctly. The fact that they don’t have to endure egg development and laying means their bodies are spared the arduous work involved in reproduction.
In fact, they can be effective breeders virtually their entire lives. They do stop growing noticeably after about 14-18 months. A single male can breed a colony of 6-10 females with relative ease. Never keep two males in the same enclosure as they will almost certainly fight, which is at times fatal.
Diet and its effect upon Leopard Gecko Lifespan
Avoid the temptation to overfeed your pet Leopard geckos. There is a trend within the U.S. whereby hobbyists try to get their geckos as big as possible, as quickly as possible, usually for purposes of breeding or sale. This method, usually accomplished by maintaining a dish full of food at all times, is an unnatural way to raise your Leopard geckos.
This type of overfeeding can lead to obesity, which can lead to reduced breeding potential, organ failure, and an early death. There’s a tendency to think a fat lizard is a healthy lizard, but just as with humans, this is not correct. A healthy leopard gecko should be lean (not skinny) and energetic, with a plump tail. Obese leopard geckos have bloated-looking bellies, unusually thick tails (fat reserves), and are usually far less active. Some have fatty deposits directly behind their front legs as well.
In the wild, these lizards don’t have an ever-present cache of food available to them, and as such, should not have food constantly available to them in captivity. Feeding your pet gecko a reasonable number of feeder insects 3-4 times per week is absolutely ideal. Avoid too many waxworms and pinkie mice–moderation is key.
Here’s a gorgeous tangerine morph with black spots that contrast against the orange color very nicely. If you’re wondering how long Leopard geckos live, the answer is: a long time.
We hope our article on Leopard gecko lifespan has helped expand your knowledge of these wonderful pet reptiles. Consider ordering your own today for delivery to your doorstep, on our page of Leopard geckos for sale. Please don’t miss our Leopard gecko care sheet, either.
From the get-go, in order to understand this blog article, you’ll need to know what the term “sexual dimorphism” means. The simplest way to explain it is that it describes a single, sexually reproducing animal where males and females look different from one another. A great example of an animal that is sexually dimorphic that all readers should be familiar with is the common chicken. Roosters are easily identifiable as the male of the species, while hens look completely different from them but are clearly still the same species.
A female Mt. Meru Jackson’s chameleon.
There are many traits that exemplify sexual dimorphism in animals, the most obvious being different genitalia. However, because chameleons lack visible distinguishing sex organs, we have to examine their other physical traits in order to determine males from females.
Generally, with most reptiles and amphibians, the traits examined to determine gender are: size, ornamentation, and coloration.
A top view of a male Mt. Meru chameleon. Notice the three horns, similar to that of a male Jackson’s chameleon.
This brings us to our question regarding Mt. Meru Jackson’s Chameleons – are they sexually dimorphic animals? Can you tell the males from the females just by looking at them?
A comparison of male and female Mt. Meru chameleons.
In short, the answer is yes.
The main difference between males and females is the number of horns/spikes present on the animal’s head. Females possess one short horn on the tip of their nose, while males have a trio of horns, one on the tip of their nose and one above each eye like a triceratops.
This is a female. You can see she has a single horn.
Another less noticeable difference between the genders is size. Males will grow to be slightly larger than females in terms of body length, weight, and slightness of frame.
Both males and females can and will display a range of colors from dark, mottled browns and blacks to vibrant greens, so color is not necessarily a good indicator of gender in this species of chameleon.
Here’s one of our baby Mount Meru Jackson’s chameleons.
Have you ever wondered why chameleons change color? We think it’s fascinating that these little lizards possess this ability and we wanted to shed a little light on the “why” behind this unique behavior.
Chameleon Camouflage
It’s a common misconception that chameleons change color primarily to blend in with their surroundings and avoid predators. While camouflaging with their surroundings is a positive byproduct of this behavior, there are actually stronger factors at work when it comes to color change.
While it is true that some species of chameleons, such as the Pygmy Chameleon (Rhampholean sp.) use color change as a way to blend in, this is a pretty specialized case. Pygmies actually don’t change color in the traditional spectrum – you won’t see a red, blue, or even bright green Pygmy. They change between light and dark shades of brown and are shaped to resemble dead leaf litter on the forest floor.
An adult pygmy chameleon. Notice its pointed shape and lack of curly tail which help it resemble leaf litter. These little guys are pretty much brown their whole lives.
Another common erroneous belief is that a chameleon will change color to mimic it’s background. For instance, chameleons are commonly portrayed in pop culture as being able to rapidly transform themselves from green to purple to black and yellow stripes based on whatever they’re close to. This is not true.
This is a translucent veiled chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus). Notice how it has white and black splotches. These are a result of selective captive breeding and are not a result of the chameleon trying to resemble the white backdrop behind it.
Chameleon Mood
The foremost reason chameleons change color is to communicate their mood, whether it be to other chameleons, potential predators, or even to their owners.
Notice the difference in color between these Meller’s chameleons. Above the chameleon is drabber because it is not being handled. It does not feel threatened or stressed, so it doesn’t feel the need to brighten up and show dominance. In the bottom photo, the chameleon is being handled, which can make the grumpier species feel angry, which in turn causes them to display brighter colors.
A general rule of thumb when it comes to interpreting your chameleon’s color is that brighter colors mean a more dominant animal. For example, if two males to come into view of one another, they will both puff up and turn a brighter green in order to display aggression and try to defend their territory. They are both trying to communicate to the other that they are the head honcho and whoever is bigger and brighter is more likely to win should they come to blows in the wild.
This is a brightly-colored Rudis chameleon (Trioceros rudis) with her baby piggy-backing. Her bright color is a general indicator of her good health. This live birth occurred at our facility.
Dark, drab chameleons can be this color for a number of reasons. One, is a physical response to light and temperature (see the subheading below on temperature and lighting for more details). The other could be because the animal is unhealthy. This is not always the case, as certain species just tend to be in the brown color spectrum naturally (Oustalet’s, Pygmies, and Elephant Ears to name a few), but if your Jacksons or Panther is consistently drab and brown, you need to adjust something in its care regimen, probably its light and/or heat source.
Female chameleons will change color to indicate that they are pregnant or receptive/non-receptive to a potential mate. Males will also display more brilliant colorations when they are trying to impress a female.
Lighting and Temperature
Have you ever noticed how wearing black in the summer is generally going to make you hotter? The black clothes absorb the sun’s rays more and the same is true of a darker-colored chameleon’s skin.
Reptiles cannot thermoregulate their body temperature the same way that mammals do, so they have lots of tricks up their sleeves to help them warm up when needed. Sometimes when a chameleon is very dark or drab in color, it could be trying to absorb more heat.
This is a hatchling Veiled chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus). It is young and still has some learning to do as far as color displays are concerned.
We hope that you learned something new by reading this article. If you’re inspired to purchase your own chameleon, Backwater Reptiles has many species of chameleons for sale on our website.
Ever wanted to know more about the pudgy Tomato Frog? Well, here’s your chance. Read on and let our factoids school you on this red amphibian!
Tomato Frog – Fact One
We bet you’ll never guess how the Tomato Frog (Dyscophus guineti) came by its common name…but, just in case you haven’t already figured it out, scientists and taxonomists like to name animals after things they resemble. And the tomato frog, due to its squat, round nature and red color, was appropriately named after the common fruit.
Because this frog looks more flat and melty than he does round and spherical, we think he resembles a tomato-based food product like lasagna more than an actual tomato! :-P
Tomato Frog – Fact Two
Adult tomato frogs and juveniles can look very different from one another. The babies might still have the same color scheme, but they are much slimmer frogs. As they grow, they will develop more vibrant red colors and pack on the pounds.
Juvenile & adult tomato frog side by side comparison. Notice how slim the juvenile is when compared to the adult.
Tomato Frog – Fact Three
Adult males are smaller and duller in color than the females. Males grow to reach about 2.5 inches max, while females can grow to be four inches long snout to vent.
They can be long-lived frogs when properly cared for living up to ten years in captivity. On average, however, six years is a far more common life span.
An adult tomato frog.
Tomato Frog – Fact Four
A ten-gallon tank is large enough to house two adult tomato frogs, but a 20 gallon would be ideal.
Tomato frogs are secretive animals and enjoy burrowing and hiding, so be sure to provide your frog with a substrate such as soil or coconut fiber/mulch to allow this behavior. It’s also wise not to put any heavy decorative items in their enclosure since they can accidentally crush themselves by burrowing underneath.
Top view of a tomato frog which demonstrates how these round frogs get their name.
Tomato Frog – Fact Five
Tomato frogs are carnivores and will only eat live insects such as crickets, wax worms, silk worms, and roaches. They also enjoy night crawlers.
It’s a good idea to dust your feeder insects once a week when dealing with adults and more frequently when feeding hatchlings and juveniles.
Tomato frog baby
We hope you enjoyed reading our Tomato Frog facts. We think they are fascinating frogs, plus we have a special fondness for fat frogs at Backwater Reptiles. We currently have both hatchling and adult tomato frogs for sale.
Would you like to learn how to install reptile heat tape? If you’re familiar with reptile husbandry, then you’re aware that all reptiles need a heat source to help them thermoregulate. While heat lamps and heat pads are a common way to heat your animal’s enclosure, there is also another method that we use at Backwater Reptiles: heat tape.
Heat tape is not something that is sold at pet stores, but it is still an excellent D.I.Y. alternative to expensive lights and pads. Only a few of the items you will need to make and install the heat tape are actually required to be purchased from a specialty store or reptile supply company. You should already have most of the other items needed to make the heat tape lying around your home or garage.
So here goes – a tutorial on how to assemble and install your reptile heat tape. (We’ve included a video tutorial at the bottom of this article as well).
First of all, we’ll give you a list of items that you will require in order to put together your heat tape. You can purchase most of these items from a hardware store or even department store in some cases. The only item that you might need to specialty order is the actual roll of heat tape itself.
Heat tape roll
Rivets
Aluminum foil tape
Electrical tape
Crimping pliers
Adhesive rubber pads/insulators
Electrical cord with ring terminals
All the items needed to install reptile heat tape.
Step One
Once you have secured all the items you need, your first step is to measure out and cut the length of heat tape that you want. After you’ve done this, punch two holes in the bottom corners of one end of the heat tape. The holes should be about a quarter of an inch up from the bottom edge of the tape in the copper strip portion. Be aware that you only need to punch these holes on one end of the tape – the other end should have no holes.
After you’ve cut your length of heat tape, punch two holes at the bottom edges of your heat tape. One hole per copper strip on both the left side and the right side.
Step Two
Next, push one of the ring ends of the electrical cord with ring terminals through the bottom edge of the heat tape sheet. You will essentially be making a “sandwich” with the heat tape and the ring end of the electrical cord. The ring will fit between the two sides of the copper section of heat tape and align with the hole you punched in the tape earlier. Repeat this process on the other corner of the heat tape.
Notice how the looped end of the electrical cord is sandwiched inside the heat tape and aligned with the hole we punched earlier.
Step Three
After your electrical cord is attached to your heat tape, you’ll need to secure the electrical cord ends in place with the rivets. Poke one end of the rivet through the hole in the heat tape and the terminal end of the electrical cord. Cap the rivet with its mate piece and proceed to clamp them shut with the crimping pliers.
If you have crimped the rivets correctly, the wires should not be able to spin or rotate at all. They should be firmly stuck in the position in which they were clamped. Repeat this process on both sides of the heat tape.
Use the crimping pliers to pinch the rivets through the electrical cord and the hole you have punched.
Step Four
Use the adhesive rubber insulator pads to cover the electrical connectors completely. Do this by peeling off the adhesive backing to one rubber piece. Cover the entire hole punch and electrical cord apparatus. Then peel another rubber piece and simply stick it on the other side of the other rubber piece, sort of like a sandwich, which the connector in the middle.
You should have a nice, complete, solid seal on the entire electrical portion of the heat tape. This keeps the rivet protected and is a safety precaution.
This is what your heat tape should look like at the end of this step. Notice how the adhesive rubber pad has completely covered the hole and the electrical connector.
Step Five
You will need two small pieces of electrical tape ready to go for this step.
Turn the heat tape around so that you are working with the end that has no wires coming out of it. Simply take your small piece of electrical tape and use it to cover and seal off the copper end of your heat tape. The tape should wrap around and cover the copper strip on both the front and back sides of the heat tape. You will want to do this on both the left side and the right side of the tape where the copper strips terminate.
Wrap a piece of electrical tape around the ends of the heat tape opposite to the side with all the wires. Cover both ends where the copper strip is exposed by folding a piece of electrical tape over it.
Step Six
At this point, your heat tape is pretty much complete. You will just need to install it and hook it up to a thermostat.
To install the heat tape, we recommend finding a flat surface that is heat resistant such as glass or ceramic. We do not recommend mounting the heat tape on either carpet or wood for safety’s sake.
All you need to do to mount the heat tape is to tape it down using the aluminum foil tape. Just cut the length of foil tape that you need and run it along the edge of your heat tape. It is vital that you do NOT cover the copper strip with the foil tape. This could cause problems down the line. You just want the foil tape to edge the heat tape and your mounting surface.
Here is a sample of a completed heat tape set up. We have only taped a small section to our mounting surface with aluminum foil tape, but you should use enough tape to line the entire edge.
We made a video with all of the above steps to go along with our written tutorial. Check it out below.
Step Seven
Your final step is to hook your heat tape up to a thermostat. Believe it or not, heat tape can actually get too hot. For the health and safety of both your animal(s) and yourself, you want to be sure that the tape is kept at a safe temperature. Thus, the need for a thermostat.
Just like your home thermostat, a reptile thermostat will measure the temperature of the heat tape and turn it off when it gets too hot and turn it on when it gets too cool.
To hook up the thermostat, plug in the outlet portion at the end of your heat tape’s electrical cord directly into the thermostat. Your thermostat will have its own separate power adapter that you will need to plug into your wall outlet.
Your thermostat will come with a temperature probe. Plug the probe into the back side of the thermostat (it should have an outlet labeled “probe” specifically for this purpose) and then directly affix the probe to the heat tape. The probe will take temperature readings and moderate your heat tape’s temperature accordingly based on whatever temperature you have it programmed to maintain.
We made a very brief video tutorial explaining how to hook the thermostat to the heat tape. You can view it below.
At Backwater Reptiles, we use various sizes of heat tape for different purposes. We use a wide, fat heat tape to make sure our Dubia roach colonies stay warm and toasty. We also use thinner strips of heat tape to line our leopard gecko and snake enclosures.
This photo demonstrates one of the ways we use our heat tape. We line shelves with it and then set our Dubia roach tubs on top of it. You can use it for leopard geckos, snakes, and many other types of reptiles as well.
We hope you’ve gleaned some helpful information from our tutorial on installing reptile heat tape. In the end, it’s an economical method for heating reptiles, and when combined with a thermostat, it’s exact as well.
