What To Do If Your Crested Gecko Loses Its Tail

Crested geckos (Rhacodactylus ciliatus) are fun and interesting pet lizards that have gained in popularity within the reptile hobby in the last few years. These cute little geckos are also known as “Eyelash Geckos” due to the miniature spiked hair-like ridges that run from their eyes down to their tails.

They can be a variety of colors ranging from dark brown, orange, red, grey, and beige. They can have no markings at all or have speckles, stripes, or bar patterns adorning their skin.

crested gecko tail loss
This is a frogbutt crested gecko, which means it lost its tail. It has a stump where a tail would normally be.

Crested Gecko tail loss
Did you know that when a crested gecko loses its tail, it then becomes known as a “frogbutt” crested gecko within the reptile world? This is because once the gecko’s tail is gone, the truncated rear end of the lizard sort of resembles a frog’s posterior.

Tail loss among crested geckos is actually not uncommon and will not harm the animal. In fact, in the wild in New Caledonia, most adult crested geckos will actually drop their tails naturally. It’s more common to see wild Cresties without tails than with tails. And other than changing the gecko’s physical appearance, losing a tail does not change the gecko’s lifestyle or impair it in any way.

Will my crested gecko’s tail grow back?

Unlike many other lizards, including the Crested Gecko’s close cousin, the Gargoyle Gecko, a crested gecko’s tail will not grow back once it has been lost. In other words, a Frogbutt Crested Gecko will always be a frogbutt.

The cells surrounding the base of the Crestie’s tail are brittle, which means that when the Crestie is threatened by a predator or stressed, the tail can easily break off. The capillaries and blood vessels in the tail will close almost instantly once the tail has been lost, so there shouldn’t be much blood loss.

It is thought that the energy needed to re-grow the tail is better used by the crested gecko elsewhere. Regenerating a tail is very costly in terms of energy and resources needed, so it is assumed that crested geckos have simply learned to live without their tails.

frogbutt crested gecko
Frogbutt crested geckos are only affected cosmetically by the loss of their tail.

What causes a crested gecko to lose its tail?

The reason a crested gecko loses its tail can be complicated or simple.

Sometimes a crested gecko is a bit skittish by nature and can be predisposed to drop its tail due to its high-strung nature. With these types of geckos, a loud noise or sudden movement can be enough of a trigger to cause the gecko to drop its tail.

Cresties with more calm demeanors will usually only drop their tails in captivity if they feel threatened or scared. Because it’s a defense mechanism, try not to make your Crestie feel like you’re a potential predator. Move slowly and within your gecko’s line of vision to try to avoid any surprises.

What to do if your crested gecko drops its tail

First of all, don’t be alarmed if the tail wiggles autonomously. The dropped tail is meant to deter and distract predators, so it is natural for it to continue to move and twitch on its own.

If your gecko’s enclosure has gravel, sand, or other small particulate substrate, we recommend moving your gecko temporarily to a small, clean container with no substrate or paper towels liners. This will help ensure that no loose pieces of substrate accidentally cling to the wound and cause it not to heal or to become infected.

Although you might feel inclined to do so, it’s not necessary to put any kind of salve or ointment on the gecko’s stub. The only time this might become necessary is if you notice the stub looks infected. In that case, it is acceptable to put a little bit of antiseptic such as Neosporin on the wound.

If the stump ever begins to ooze, your gecko needs to see a vet. This is a rare occurrence, but once the tail has gotten that infected, veterinary care will be required for the gecko to survive.

frogbutt eyelash gecko
Crested geckos are also known as Eyelash Geckos due to the ridges of hair-like spikes down their backs and heads.

Conclusion

Frogbutt geckos are not uncommon in the wild or in the reptile hobby world. This “new look” only affects the gecko cosmetically and personally, we think frogbutts are just as cute as Cresties with a full tail.

If you think you’re ready to welcome a Crested Gecko of your own into your home, Backwater Reptiles does have frogbutt crested geckos available as well as crested geckos with intact tails.

Is My Pet Snake Going to Shed Its Skin?

Maybe you’ve never owned a pet snake before but you’re considering it. Well, we’re all about education and potential owners making informed decisions about the animals we sell, so this blog article is dedicated to explaining the process of how snakes shed their skin.

In this article, we’ll answer four important questions regarding snake shedding:

-Why do snakes shed their skin?
-How can I tell if my snake is going to shed?
-What do I do when my snake sheds?
-How often will my snake shed?

Bullsnake Prior to Shed
This is a bullsnake (P. sayi) prior to shedding its skin.

Why do snakes shed their skin?

Snakes are reptiles and as such possess scales instead of elastic, stretchy skin like mammals. A mammal’s skin grows and expands as the mammal grows, but a snake’s skin doesn’t actually grow along with it, so the snake must shed the skin in order to comfortably grow. This process of shedding skin is also called ecdysis.

In truth, the snake doesn’t actually shed its entire skin. Once the top layer of cells has accommodated as much growth as it can, the snake will slough it off in one single, hollow, sheath leaving behind a shiny, iridescent, and much more vibrant outer layer.

In addition to allowing for growth, getting rid of the top layer of old skin allows the snake to shed any unwanted skin parasites that may have attached themselves. This is not a common reason for captive pet snakes to shed due to human interference and prevention of parasites, but in the wild, this is a huge advantage to the animal.

How can I tell if my snake is going to shed?

When your snake is preparing to shed its skin, both it behavior and its physical appearance will change.

Your snake’s scales will acquire a grey sort of tone to them and lose iridescence. The snake will also appear to get cloudy, milky, or grey eyes. You might think your pet snake has developed cataracts, but in truth, eye clouding is 100% normal and you only need to be concerned if your snake has shed its entire skin and its eyes still appear cloudy afterwards.

Bullsnake Pre-Shed
This bullsnake will shed its skin in a day or two. A great indicator of this is that its eyes are clouded over.

Don’t be surprised if your pet snake also becomes lethargic, more secretive, or even more aggressive. Snakes, like people, have different dispositions and some will go through the shedding process smoother than others.

Some pet snakes might strike out more if you attempt to remove them from their enclosure and others might hide and not come out until they are ready to actually slough off their skin.

It is also very common for snakes to refuse food a week or so prior to shedding. Do not be alarmed if your snake is just not hungry. This is normal.

What do I do when my snake sheds?

More often than not, snakes will shed their skin in secret. The entire process could occur in under an hour and you might not even realize it has happened until you discover the skin in the enclosure.

If you happen to come upon your snake in the physical process of shedding, do not disturb it. You could injure the snake and the snake could become stressed and injure you unintentionally too. 

Once you can see that the entire skin has been detached from the snake in one piece, remove it from the cage and dispose of it. 

Pay close attention to your snake’s eyes in this time as you want to be sure that the shedding process occurred without any issues. Sometimes, particularly in instances where the humidity level in the cage is not high enough, snakes can have trouble ridding themselves of the skin cap that protects their eyes.

How often will my snake shed?

Snakes will shed their skin as long as they are growing, even if they grow at a much slower rate as they advance in years.

Young snakes who are growing rapidly will shed as often as every two weeks. Adult snakes who are considered mature will shed far less frequently – usually around two to three times per year.

Cornsnake Prior to Shedding
This baby blood red corn snake (Elaphe guttata) hs dull skin and clouded eyes. It will shed its skin soon.

Conclusion

Snakes make great pets for people who are educated and aware of the care requirements for these slithering reptiles.

If you are prepared to deal with an animal that wears a new skin every few months, then feel free to check out Backwater Reptiles’ many species of snakes for sale.

 

Do Bullfrogs Make Good Pets?

Bullfrogs as pets

Even though bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana) are one of the most common and widespread frogs in North America, the Backwater Reptiles crew thinks they make awesome pets. We think they’re great natural accents if you have a decorative pond in your backyard, and they also make amusing indoor family pets.

Bullfrogs are an olive green base color with grayish brown mottling, although they can also have plain green skin. Their bellies are off-white or yellowish. Males are larger than females, but both genders have large, brown eyes with horizontal, almond-shaped pupils.

Both genders possess eardrums or tympanums behind their eyes, but the male’s tympanum is markedly larger than his eyes, while the female’s is about the same size as her eyes.

Pet Bullfrog
An olive-green female bullfrog with a yellow underbelly and speckles. A wonderful pet frog species for amphibian hobbyists.

Why a pet bullfrog?

Bullfrogs are “classic” frogs. What we mean by this is that they possess traditional green skin, are strong jumpers, and live semi-aquatic life styles. In other words, bullfrogs epitomize what most people visualize when they think of a pet frog. We think this works in their favor and makes them sort of the “All-American Frog.”

As we previously mentioned, bullfrogs are wonderful animals to have living in your backyard if you have a man-made pond. This is actually an ideal living situation for them. Because they will have access to natural day and night cycles, natural seasonal weather shifts, and natural food sources, you really won’t have much work to do as far as maintaining their health is concerned.

Outdoor pond life will allow your bullfrogs to reproduce, hibernate, and enjoy a natural life cycle. They will happily croak out the classic frog mating call during the appropriate season, engage in mating rituals, and eventually fill your outdoor pond with tadpoles and froglets.

Bullfrog
Bullfrogs can thrive outdoors in a manmade, backyard pond, but will also do well in an indoor tank.

We did mention that when kept outdoors, bullfrogs will essentially care for themselves as far as food is concerned, but we didn’t explain how this is beneficial to you as a homeowner. Most of us don’t particularly enjoy having bugs and other small pests in our yards, right?

Well, a backyard full of bullfrogs will certainly help keep that pest population under control. Bullfrogs will happily eat crickets, dragonflies, flies, spiders, and any other bug that you might consider troublesome to have in your yard.

In addition to being nice additions to your yard, bullfrogs are also great classroom pets for kids and will do just fine living an indoor life in an aquarium.

How do I care for my bullfrog in captivity?

If you are going the route of keeping your bullfrog indoors in a tank or aquarium, we recommend that you have a 55-gallon tank at minimum to house your mature frog or frog pair. Bullfrogs are very active frogs – they enjoy having room to swim, completely submerge themselves, and some area on land where they can bask. Bullfrogs are also very sizeable animals. Males can reach up to eight inches in length and need room to stretch their legs, so the larger the tank, the better.

Your tank set up should include both aquatic and land plants. Bullfrogs do like to hide and the plants, whether living or fake, will help replicate their natural environment. Your tank will also need a full-spectrum UV light and heat light set up as well as a secure lid. Bullfrogs have very strong legs and are incredible jumpers, so the cage top will ensure they don’t escape.

Rana catesbeiana
Bullfrogs are not picky eaters. Feeding time is never dull with a bullfrog.

In the wild, bullfrogs are opportunistic predators. They will sit and wait for prey to cross their path and then ambush. In the wild, bullfrogs will mostly eat invertebrates, and the same holds true in captivity. We recommend feeding your bullfrog a varied diet of insects such as crickets, mealworms, reptiworms, night crawlers, and silk worm larvae. They’re not really picky eaters and getting your bullfrog to eat should not be an issue.

If you should choose to keep your pet bullfrogs outdoors in your backyard, we highly recommend an enclosure or fence around your yard or pond. Bullfrogs are great escape artists and they can and will invade surrounding habitats and drive out the native species.

Conclusion

Bullfrogs can make rewarding and fascinating pets. They will positively thrive in an outdoor environment that replicates their natural home, but will also happily live in an indoor aquarium.

Backwater Reptiles has very affordable bullfrogs for sale if you are interested in owning a few or starting a colony in your backyard.

How to Feed Your Pet Snake

At Backwater Reptiles, we sell snakes of all sizes ranging from tiny Ringneck Snakes to giant Green Anacondas, so we have lots of experience feeding and maintaining the health of these animals.

In this blog article, we’ll answer these three commonly asked questions regarding snake feeding habits:

-What do I feed my pet snake?
-How do I feed my pet snake?
-Should I feed my snake live rodents or use frozen/thawed ones?

What do I feed my pet snake?

First off, we should mention that nearly all snakes eat mice, rats, or other small vertebrates in captivity. The smaller the snake, the smaller the prey item.

Most hatchlings will start off with pinkie mice and eventually grow into being able to eat fuzzies. Only the larger species of snakes such as anacondas, pythons, and boas to name a few, will get large enough to the point that they require full-grown mice as meals. We recommend doing your research if you don’t want to have to handle full-grown feeder animals.

Snake Food
We feed our snakes using tongs because not all snakes have great aim. Using tongs is a great way to avoid an accidental biting.

Some smaller species of snakes will not need to eat rodents. For instance, the Ringneck Snake is so small that it eats night crawlers in captivity. Garter and Ribbon Snakes can eat mice, but will actually do quite well on a diet of minnows or other small feeder fish, and even nightcrawlers.

Feeder rodents of all sizes can be purchased at most pet stores. Backwater Reptiles also offers feeder mice that are conveniently delivered to your door step, as well as nightcrawlers.

How do I feed my pet snake?

If you feed your snake frozen mice, then the first step is to thaw the frozen rodent. After removing the feeder animal from your freezer, place the animal in warm water for a few minutes. Allow it to de-frost and thaw like you would a cut of meat. Because most feeder rodents are very small (especially the pinkie mice), it shouldn’t take more than five to ten minutes to thaw the food.

Thawing Feeder Pinkie Mice
These pinkie mice are floating in warm water to thaw out.

NOTE: Do not EVER put the frozen rodents in the microwave. Not only will you have a mess to clean up, but you will have wasted perfectly good snake food.

Once you are sure your feeder rodent is sufficiently warmed, remove your snake from its enclosure and feed it in a separate, temporary enclosure. This need not be a large or elaborate container – just something tall enough so that the snake won’t climb out during the feeding process.

The reason we advise moving your snake to a separate feeding tub is to prevent your snake from becoming aggressive. If you feed the snake inside its own cage, it will assume that every time the cage is opened, food is coming, which could lead it to “train” itself to strike whenever the cage is opened. In other words, it will associate the cage opening with food instead of bath time, cage cleaning time, or even play time. Moving the snake to a separate feeding area will help counteract this type of behavior.

Once your snake is in its feeding enclosure, simply hold the rodent out for the snake to strike at or drop the rodent into the enclosure in front of the snake. You can also use tongs to hold the prey item in front of the snake’s line of vision.

If you feed your snake live prey, we highly recommend stunning the animal before putting it in the snake’s enclosure. This is because feeder animals can actually scratch and bite the snake before the snake has time to consume it. This can lead to infections or even unsightly scars on the snake’s body.

Should I feed my snake live rodents or use frozen/thawed ones?

We highly recommend using frozen/thawed feeder rodents when it comes to snakes for two main reasons – safety and convenience.

It might not seem like a big deal, but as we previously mentioned, living feeder animals can actually harm snakes. Rodents are sneaky and will do everything they can to outsmart a snake. They will bite and claw the snake if it hesitates at all. This can be a problem is your pet snake is a slow eater or if it is not hungry when you feed it. Again, you don’t want your snake to be injured by its food.

We also think that it’s safer for you, the snake’s owner, to feed it frozen food. It has been said that snakes becomes more aggressive when fed live food and we agree. While there’s not really any definitive proof that this is true, it does seem to be the case in our experience.

Snakes that are given live food have to strike to kill and usually will have to strike more than once to catch the animal they’re eating. It just makes sense that the snake will be more likely to strike if it is practicing this behavior on a regular basis.

We also feel that feeding frozen animals to your snake is more convenient. If you opt for feeding frozen/thawed, you can simply keep the food in your freezer until your snake’s meal time. On the other hand, if you feed your snake live food, you either have to keep living feeder rodents at your home or go to the pet store once per week to obtain them.

Hungry Savu Python
This Savu Python is prepared to strike. It is his mealtime and he is aiming at a pinkie mouse.

Conclusion

Feeding your pet snake is a fairly simple process, whether you opt for frozen meals or live prey. It’s honestly as simple as thawing your feeder mice or stunning your live prey and offering it to your snake. Nature does the rest.

Freddy Krueger Frog Care

Have you heard of the “Freddy Krueger” frog? If you haven’t, we bet you’ll always remember them after reading this blog article. These frogs are bizarre and entertaining which makes them not only memorable, but delightful pets. We’re going to focus on how to care for Freddy Krueger frogs.

Freddy krueger frog care
The Budgett’s frog (aka Freddy Krueger frog) is flat and “blob-like,” which makes them fun aquarium subjects. They are easy to care for when setup correctly.

Also known as Budgett’s Frogs (Lepidobatrachus laevis), the Freddy Krueger frog’s physical appearance is reminiscent of a blob of green, olive, or yellow-colored Jello. They are flat, fat, and sort of jiggly when at rest. They have tiny but protuberant eyes that sit atop their head as well as pretty long fingers…at least as far as frog fingers are concerned. We imagine that’s partially where they get their Krueger moniker.

When stressed, threatened, or upset, a Budgett’s Frog will puff itself up, rear up on its hind legs, open its big mouth as wide as possible, and emit what can best be described as a scream. The frog’s mouth is toothless with the exception of two tiny sharp protrusions on their lower jaw that make them look like they have tiny fangs. What an interesting and strange defense mechanism.

Screaming Budgetts Frog
This is an angry Freddy Krueger Frog. He is puffed up, screaming, and showing off his two little “fangs.”

We actually sell quite a few of these unique blob-frogs at Backwater Reptiles. We think this is not only due to their comical appearance and screaming capabilities, but because they are great pet frogs overall.

Although their body shape might suggest otherwise, Budgett’s Frogs are mainly aquatic and prefer to stay in the water rather than to be on land. Their arms are quite strong making them adept swimmers. Because their eyes sit directly on top of their head, they can easily submerge themselves completely in the water and just leave their eyes poking out of the surface to see.

When kept in captivity, the Freddy Krueger Frog’s type of watery environment should be replicated as closely as possible. For a single, solitary, full-grown frog, we recommend a tank that is at least 12 inches wide and 24 inches long. Make sure the water you put in the tank is dechlorinated and in the range of six to nine inches deep. Although your Budgett’s Frog might not actually leave the water of its own accord, it is always recommended that a platform or place where the frog can escape the water completely and be on dry land is provided.

Freddy Krueger Frog
This top view of the Budgets Frog shows how its eyes sit directly on top of its head, making it easy for the frog to see when submerged in water.

The water temperature for a Budgett’s Frog is also important. In order for the frog to thrive, the water should stay in the temperature range of 77 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. This can be acheived by using a thermometer or thermostat and a small tank water heater. Because Budgetts frogs are hefty and can dislodge water heaters, we recommend a mounted heater that has a safety cut out, just in case.

It also should be noted that Budgett’s Frogs create a lot of waste for a frog. Their tank should have a filtration system in place, unless you want to change the water every few days. A good rule of thumb when it comes to water filtration systems is that you do get what you pay for. Depending on the frequency you want to change the frog’s water, it might make sense to purchase a pricier unit that filters better so you don’t have to change the water too often.

Because Budgett’s Frogs are such hearty eaters and therefore produce a lot of waste, we don’t usually line their tank bottoms with any kind of substrate. It makes it easier to handle the frequent water changes and also ensures that the frog doesn’t accidentally ingest anything it shouldn’t.

We recommend aquarium decor that is minimal as well as functional. Items that provide good hiding spaces and are aesthetically pleasing such as decorative caves purchased from a pet store, terra cotta pots, or similar items are all good options. Just make sure that whatever decor you do choose is too large for the frog to eat because they really are voraciously hungry and will try to ingest items you wouldn’t imagine they would.

No Budgett’s frog care sheet would be complete without mentioning their feeding habits. Due to their hefty appetites, you should feed your young Budgett’s frog as much as it will consume in a single sitting on a daily basis. Adults don’t require feeding quite as often – every other day is fine for a mature frog.

Lepidobatrachus laevis
Although its legs make it appear stumpy, the Budgets Frog is actually a really good swimmer.

Budgett’s Frogs will eat invertebrates like nightcrawlers, crickets, roaches, and wax worms. They will also happily eat small feeder fish and de-shelled land snails. You can feed them in the water or place the food on their land platform. Because these frogs are not picky eaters, they will usually take whatever you offer them and feeding time is quite an entertaining event.

Budgett’s frogs grow quite large and will reach lengths of up to six inches, although three and a half to five inches is more common. They can live 15 to 20 years.

Freddy Krueger frog care – conclusion

We very highly recommend Budgett’s Frogs as pets. Not only are they visually interesting and appealing, they are also quite interactive and great eaters, sometimes even jumping out of the water to attack prey. If you’re ready to spring for a Freddy Krueger frog of your own, Backwater Reptiles has Budgetts Frogs for sale.