What mistakes do people commonly make when it comes to reptile husbandry?

Reptiles are considered exotic pets and as such they do have specific and special care requirements. Although most pet owners do want to take the best care possible of their reptile, there are many common mistakes that are made when trying to do so. This article will touch upon the most common mistakes we see at Backwater Reptiles and what you should be doing instead.

Temperature and Humidity

Did you know that temperature and humidity are one of the toughest environmental factors to get right when it comes to captive conditions? Different reptile species originate from different environments and therefore have varying preferences when it comes to ideal temperature and humidity.

Keep one thing in mind when adjusting temperature and humidity levels – search engines are your friend! If you are unsure what a good range is for your particular pet, we advise that you do a simple search. There are many breeders, pet stores and hobbyists with websites and articles to help you find out what your pet needs.

It’s also relatively easy to know if your reptile needs adjustments made. Reptiles who don’t have enough humidity in their environment will have issues shedding. For instance, snakes will not shed in a complete tube or will retain their eye caps. Lizards will seem to be in a constant state of shed. There are other warning signs as well including dullness or lack of color.

Utilize misters, thermometers and heat elements such as lamps in order to create the proper equilibrium for your particular animal.

Handling and Human Interaction

Pet reptiles are not domesticated. We repeat – pet reptiles ARE NOT domesticated animals.

This means that many of them do not enjoy being removed from their enclosure to be “played with.” It will only stress them out unnecessarily. There are quite a few species of reptile that do just fine interacting with people including: bearded dragons, ball pythons, most tortoises, leopard geckos, corn snakes, savannah monitors and crested geckos. However, there are many species that people acquire that we personally feel are best left as ornamental pets.

While it is true that many reptiles can be worked with to become accustomed to people, we do advise that you read your pet’s body language closely before you handle it constantly. Bottom line: Not all reptiles like being petted, held or touched.

Diet and Providing Supplements

Truthfully, most pet reptiles require supplements in order to stay at peak health in captivity. The only exception to this is snakes which receive total nutrition from their prey.

Most people might not even be aware that reptiles need vitamins. Calcium and vitamin D are extremely important, particularly when it comes to bone health and growth. We advise that you dust your feeder insects accordingly with an appropriate supplement depending on whether your pet is indoor or outdoor.

You should also keep in mind dietary requirements when preparing your reptile’s meals. For instance, most reptiles commonly kept as pets are insectivores, but some are vegetarians and some are omnivores and need a mixture of vegetation and animal protein in their diet. Don’t make the mistake of giving too much protein to an omnivore – this can be disastrous on their liver.

We also advise that you mix up the type of insects you feed your pet. Crickets and roaches are great staples, but there are advantages to other feeder insects. Depending upon the species, sometimes rodents or eggs are a good addition as well. Variety is key and all too often we see people trying to feed their reptile the same food over and over to the point where the animal wants something else and goes on a hunger strike.

Miner-All by Sticky Tongue Farms is by far the best calcium/D3 supplement in our experience. It’s preferred by top breeders and zoos around the world.

UV Lighting Requirements

Did you know that some reptiles absolutely require full-spectrum UV lighting in order to be healthy? Other species do not necessarily require it.

Over the years, we’ve learned that many people make the mistake of not providing proper UV rays. This can result in metabolic bone disease among other health issues.

In order to avoid making this mistake, we always suggest that you research the pet you want before you purchase. Take note of whether or not it needs UV rays, heat lamps or both.

In general, most lizards, tortoises and turtles require full-spectrum lighting. There are of course exceptions and this is where knowledge and research come into play.

Most snakes don’t require UV lighting, but this is not a hard and fast rule. For instance, some people choose to provide UV lighting for corn snakes, but other breeders swear it’s not necessary. If there is debate as to whether or not your particular pet should have UV lighting, our recommendation is to provide it for the sake of safety. In other words, better to be safe than sorry when it comes to this common mistake.

The Correct Type of Enclosure

Another very common mistake we often see is people buying the wrong kind of tank, vivarium or enclosure for their reptile. Size, orientation, and lifestyle are all elements that need to be taken into consideration when choosing an enclosure.

For example, chameleons require a very specific type of cage that allows for air flow and ventilation while maintaining adequate humidity and moisture levels. This is why we always recommend mesh enclosures for chameleons of all species, excluding pygmy chameleons.

Another factor that owners often fail to take into account is the lifestyle of their pet. For example, you wouldn’t want to provide an aquatic or even semi-aquatic environment for a desert lizard such as a uromastyx. Furthermore, animals with arboreal lifestyles need climbing room and accessories, so their cages need to be vertically oriented. It’s a very common mistake to think in terms of human comforts and give an arboreal animal a cage with lots of floor space but little upward mobility room.

Substrate is also a very important housing element that many people get incorrect. We’ll chalk this mistake up to the seemingly endless options for substrate and the debate amongst owners as to what works best for their animals in their own homes. Keep in mind that most substrates are recommended, leaving lots of room for error.

One substrate mistake we see over and over is ingestion by the animal. If your substrate is too small or you are feeding your pet within its enclosure, there is always the opportunity for accidental ingestion. Over time, this can cause health problems such as impaction.

Ultimately, when it comes to substrate, we recommend simple, easy to clean and practical options. Choose something that will allow your pet to perform its natural activities (i.e. burrowing) but also make sure that it won’t get in the way.

Finally, some owners make the mistake of over decorating their reptile’s enclosure. In truth, barer is better when it comes to reptile husbandry. Unless you are dedicating an entire room or creating a special bioenclosure with lots of bells and whistles, most reptiles need the bare minimum to stay happy and healthy.

For example, since your reptile’s enclosure should have a hot, basking side and a cooler, ambient temp side, we do advise that you provide two hide spots. If your reptile is arboreal, some items to climb on are necessary. A water dish is another cage furniture item that is necessary for most reptiles too. But other than these mentioned items, cage decor and furniture should be minimal, lightweight and easy to clean. This is for the safety of the animal. Too much decor could crush your pet or injure it accidentally.

Cleanliness

It might seem like common sense, but reptile homes need cleaning just like human homes.

While it’s not a necessity to clean water spots off of glass tanks, it is necessary to remove fecal matter and shed skin. You wouldn’t want to live in your own waste, so why would your pet?

It’s a very common mistake to think that reptile cages don’t need cleaning simply because reptiles are typically low maintenance pets. You don’t need to scrub and disinfect your pet’s cage every week, but spot cleaning is essential and full tank cleaning should be done as needed.

Conclusion

Now that we’ve outlined and discussed some of the biggest mistakes we see new reptile owners make, we hope it might help you avoid making the same errors.

Luckily, if something does need to be corrected, your reptile’s behavior will typically let you know. And most of these common husbandry mistakes are very simple to rectify if you catch them in a reasonable amount of time.