Do I need a mister or a fogger for my pet reptile or amphibian?
If you have a pet reptile or amphibian, then you probably understand that some species require more humidity than others. In order to maintain proper humidity levels, many owners rely on misters or foggers. So, which machine is better suited for your pet?
What is the difference between a mister and a fogger?
Both misters and foggers operate by using water. They each disperse water through different methods with the end goal of raising the humidity level within your pet’s enclosure.
A mister is a machine that essentially creates rain. Machines have one or more hoses with a nozzle on the end that create a water spray. It’s similar to what you might create by using a water spritzing bottle manually.
As its name implies, a fogger uses water to create a smoke-like fog within your pet’s enclosure. It tends to keep moisture in the air rather than allowing it to collect on objects within the enclosure in droplets.
Which animals need misters?
Animals that enjoy humid, wet environments benefit from using misters.
Many reptiles that drink water that collects on leaves in the wild enjoy misters. Chameleons, geckos and tropical lizard species are great examples of herps that often have misters used in their enclosures.
Although they won’t necessarily drink water from the mister, a lot of arboreal snake species benefit from misters too. Ball pythons, tree pythons and some boas have misters within their enclosures and this can help avoid shedding problems from lack of humidity.
Owners of amphibians including salamanders, frogs and toads will also often use misters to keep substrate and the immediate environment wet.
Which animals need foggers?
Foggers are great options for reptiles and amphibians that are used to high humidity tropical climates. Many species that are native to rain forests thrive when a fogger is used.
Dart frogs, tree frogs and tropical geckos benefit from foggers.
Sometimes, herp owners will even use both a mister and a fogger alternating in order to replicate natural environments to the best of their ability.
How do I know if the mister or fogger is doing its job?
The easiest way to tell if your machine is doing its intended job is to be keenly aware of the health of your pet. If shedding is going well, the animal is eating regularly and eliminating waste normally, then odds are your machine is functioning properly.
We do typically recommend that owners invest in a hygrometer to measure humidity within the enclosure. Even if everything seems to be going well, it is always good to have hard data to back up your observations. Typically, humidity should be within a specific range of values for any given species and a hygrometer is certainly a useful tool to help you ensure that your enclosure is within those important measurements.
How do I buy a mister or fogger?
There are a few factors to take into consideration when purchasing either a fogger or a mister.
First, you will need to consider the size of your enclosure. Small enclosures will require less powerful machines with fewer outputs. Large enclosures for bigger animals such as monitor lizards, full-grown iguanas and large snakes will probably need a machine with multiple hose output capabilities.
Another feature that is important for many owners is programmability. Usually, it’s safe to assume that you’re buying a mister or fogger to automatically mist or fog on a schedule. Therefore, many owners want a machine that includes a timer and the ability to turn on without having to manually press a button. Most models come equipped with a timer function, but some of the fancier ones can sync up with your hygrometer and turn on when the reading falls below a certain level. It’s quite handy for herps that require very specific environments.
These days, you can buy both types of machine online very easily. You can also find basic models at large retail pet store chains too. Even vendors at reptile expos have been known to carry these types of supplies.
Conclusion
Both misters and foggers are excellent options for maintaining proper humidity levels within your pet’s enclosure. Whether or not you need a mister, a fogger, or even both types of machines will depend upon which animal(s) you own, what type of environment they require and how much maintenance you can personally perform.
In the end, we recommend that you research the individual needs of your particular animal and choose a mister or a fogger accordingly.
What temperature should your pet reptile’s cage be? How much humidity should their enclosure contain?
Two key elements of proper herp husbandry involve maintaining appropriate temperatures and humidity levels. These levels obviously vary widely between species, so in this article we will discuss how to know what the proper levels for your pet should be and how to make changes to these variables if necessary.
Pictured are custom cages made for baby Parson’s Chameleons. Chameleons are advanced when it comes to temperature and humidity requirements. We typically do not recommend them to beginners.
How do I know what the proper temperature for my reptile is?
We’re going to answer this question simply by saying that the right temperature is different for every species. The correct temperature range for a Kenyan Sand Boa is most likely not going to be the exact same for a Red Eye Tree Frog.
The most important thing to know here is that you must look up what temperature range your pet will be most comfortable with and go from there. Research, research, research! The good news is that there are a lot of specific and detailed care sheets available online for most species.
How do I know what the proper humidity range for my reptile is?
Again, humidity levels are going to be variable from species to species. As much as we’d love to provide a set of data that is universal for all herps, this just isn’t the case. Please do research on how moist your pet’s environment should be and make sure you can provide that before you adopt.
Keep in mind that desert animals such as bearded dragons, leopard geckos and many species of tortoise are not going to require too much humidity. Amphibians and other species that thrive in tropical environments – i.e. frogs, salamanders, many species of jungle snakes and chameleons – are going to require habitats with higher humidity levels and much more moisture in their immediate surroundings.
Snakes species such as this Borneo Blood Python will require more humidity in their environment than desert species.
How do I control temperature and humidity levels within my reptile’s enclosure?
You will need two main tools to measure temperature and humidity.
We recommend that you invest in a thermometer that provides accurate readings. The bare minimum you should use is a temperature gauge that sticks to the wall of the enclosure, although for more complicated set ups, we advise investing in something more accurate.
There are many types of digital thermometers that work great for measuring the temperature within a tank. Some simply provide a reading while others are portable and can use a probe to measure various areas within the enclosure. Another great option is to get a temperature gun. These are not necessarily labelled as thermometers, but they are as simple as point and shoot to obtain a temperature reading anywhere you wish.
Personally, when it comes to obtaining temperature information, we always like to recommend something portable because it allows for multiple measurements within the same enclosure at different points of interest. For instance, you don’t want a uniform temperature throughout the entire enclosure. You should always have a hotter side with the basking lamps and a cooler side to allow your pet to properly thermoregulate. A portable thermometer allows you to measure each side of the enclosure separately.
Your second absolutely necessary tool is a hygrometer. These are used to measure moisture and humidity levels. If you so choose, you can even invest in a thermometer/hygrometer combo tool. These are actually fairly common since herpetology has become more of a mainstream hobby.
Once you have tools that will provide you with data on your herp’s home, then you can make adjustments accordingly. As temperatures outside and within your home fluctuate, you might have to make adjustments to your reptile’s enclosure as well. Sometimes this can mean misting the enclosure more or less frequently, buying a more powerful heat bulb, or investing in an alternate source of heat such as a heat pad for underneath the tank.
Ultimately, you will get used to adjusting temperature and humidity the longer you own and care for your pet. It will be bit more challenging at first, but once you have a system down, it will not require much maintenance at all.
Amphibians like this Mole Salamander will require a lot of moisture and humidity in their environment.
What are the signs that I might need to make adjustments to the temperature and/or humidity levels within my reptile’s cage?
One of the first indicators that something is not right with your pet’s environment is a lack of appetite. For instance, if you notice that your pet is suddenly sluggish and avoiding food, it could be a humidity or heat issue.
For certain species, there are telltale signs of dehydration. Even if you provide your pet with a water dish, many herps actually get moisture from their environment and rarely drink water at all. For instance, chameleons won’t recognize a water dish as a source of moisture at all. You will notice their coloration becomes rather dull and their eyes will become sunken if they don’t get enough water. Eventually, they will perish from dehydration before they notice a water dish in their enclosure. When you own a chameleon, you actually have to provide a constant source of dripping or moving water or do lots of misting of the cage so that your pet doesn’t get dehydrated.
For other species, you might notice issues with shedding. If your snake’s substrate doesn’t contain enough moisture, it will shed in pieces rather than one long tube, which is the healthy way. Other animals might have issues with perpetual shed or their scales and coloration might appear dull constantly.
Other signs that you might need to make adjustments include lethargy, secretiveness in the form of burrowing or never emerging from hiding, or lack of waste elimination.
The best way to avoid issues with temperature and humidity are to simply check and adjust frequently.
What are the pet reptiles that have the simplest and easiest temperature and humidity requirements?
Many pet herps have been bred in captivity for generations. They are therefore very forgiving when it comes to temperature and humidity ranges.
Below are a few species that we often recommend for beginners:
Bearded dragons
Leopard geckos
Corn snakes
Ball pythons
Crested geckos
Hognose snakes
King snakes
Blue Tongue Skinks
Conclusion
Reptiles come from all different types of climates and subclimates. This means that they all have different needs when it comes to temperature and humidity ranges. Desert animals should not have the same humidity levels as a tropical animal.
The single most important piece of advice we want reptile owners to know is that they need to do research and be prepared! There is not a “catch all” temperature or humidity range that works for all pets. Before you acquire any reptile, make sure that you invest in the proper equipment to maintain its habitat requirements. You can check out any of our care sheets or blog articles for reference or you can simply Google the species you are interested in and find information specific to the pet you wish to own. And don’t forget – you can always email our customer service experts at sales@backwaterreptiles.com for information as well!
Giving the gift of a reptile is a sure way to make anyone’s holiday cheerful and definitely one they will always remember. However unlike that blanket you wish to give, you cannot wrap a reptile and leave it under the tree until Christmas Day. How do you make this special moment happen perfectly? We have a few tips on how to purchase or order a Live Animal during the hectic season, before December 25th. Or you can scroll down to the bottom of this article and see how you can get away with giving a live animal in just 1 Step.
If you wish to know how to wrap a Reptile like a present specifically, please refer to our other article linked below.
With animals, you can never prepare too much. Depending on the species that you want, be sure you have all the necessities required for that animal from the enclosure, basking spot, UVB light, food, decorations, etc. Some species will require more supplies than others however it’s extremely important you have all of it before ordering, as reptiles need it to survive and keep healthy. Please be keeping in mind that if you order a baby/juvenile animal, it will grow. For example, a baby Iguana will reach up to 6 feet and will need at least a 12x6x6 foot cage once it’s an adult. Also be sure that this live animal can be responsibly taken care of for the rest of its life.
Reptiles Magazine is a great, reliable source to check out what you need or how to care for the species you wish to acquire. You can even print out a care sheet from their website and include it so that the lucky one receiving this gift will know how to care for the animal as well.
You can email us at anytime however at sales@backwaterreptiles.com if you have any further questions on care, behavior, etc. We are always happy to help our customers with their research.
2. Order Early
Now that you have all the animal supplies, it is time to order the animal itself for that special someone. We always recommend ordering earlier than later when it comes to Live Animals especially.
Firstly, during this season, there are many other people also ordering Live Animals like you. Therefore animal stock will be constantly changing depending on the species of course. Some animals are more rare than others and can be sold out very quickly within hours. We unfortunately cannot physically hold animals so please keep this in mind when placing your order.
Secondly, ordering early ensures that we can help right away after arrival on getting your animal adjusted to its new home if need be. Live Animals are unpredictable and we recommend giving them plenty of time to get adjusted into their new home.
3. Safe Arrival
Of course we want the animal to arrive to you as safely as possible. Because we are in the colder season, we always recommend to customers with temperatures below 40F (day & night temps), that they have their package held at a local facility for customer pickup. We do send a reminder email to have your package held at a local facility prior to shipping and how to do it. Our Team is great at packing the animals during the colder months by adding heat packs inside the insulated overnight shipping box.
Rest assured, every animal is only shipped via overnight mail for his or her safety. Having the package held at a local facility greatly reduces the amount of hours that the package is exposed to outside temperatures by being in a temperature-regulated facility and not on a delivery truck. *Be sure to choose a main Hub or Ship Center when selecting a facility for pickup as not all facilities can hold live animals.
We always recommend that customers take the time to pickup the package at a facility, as it’s easier on the animal and worth it for you.
Frog or Chameleon species should always be taken with a bit more precaution during the colder season due to their more sensitive nature.
4. Hiding
You have all your supplies and picked up your animal at the facility a week prior to Christmas. Now where can you hide your well thought out gift?
Of course if your living under the same roof as the person your giving the animal too, it can be quite tricky especially if they are younger kids. One of the best places to hide these critters is in the closet. Whether you have a walk in or sliding door closet, it is best to make a bit of temporary room to store the animal since it’s a quiet, secure, and private. We of course mean to store the animal within its enclosure with all of its requirements such as a basking spot, UVB, etc. and not in a box. The animal should be opened immediately upon delivery from the shipping box and placed in its enclosure. *Do not leave or wrap an animal in the shipping box for Christmas.* Yes, we did just have to mention this.
Animals such as small Frogs or Tarantulas will generally have smaller enclosures and/or with heat pads and therefore can be hidden easier. Just be sure that wherever your creative hide is, that the animal is easily accessible to feed, water, etc. and also is in an open enough area to breathe. You never want to hide an animal where there is not a lot of airflow. Also be sure that you are taking fire safety precautions by not allowing the lights to touch anything flammable.
Although ordering the animal early to hide it for a few days can be a hassle, it is definitely worth it. The animal will be nice and adjusted to its new home by the time it is given.
Conclusion
Well there you have it! These are just a few key tips on how to give a reptile this holiday season however if there are any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask us. Please order responsibly.
Want to skip steps 2-4?
Another way to gift a reptile is just to do Step #1: Preparation and then order a Gift Card from our website. This way you can wrap the supplies anyway you like with a Gift Card inside for the receiver to order their new critter whenever they want. Gift Cards are shipped via standard mail. Link below.
Also, the very last day to order an animal from our website is Monday December 20th, for a delivery on Wednesday per the Shipping Schedule. Feeders are shipped via USPS 2–3 day mail and should be ordered before the 20th of December. We will not be in office from the 25th through the 26th if you email us within that time frame. Therefore, please always prepare and order early!
One of the first things to consider when purchasing a non-traditional pet of any sort is where the animal will live. What type of cage or enclosure does it require to stay happy and healthy? How can you make sure your pet’s housing needs are met?
Because scorpions are pretty popular in the reptile hobbyist world (despite the fact that they’re obviously not reptiles!), we get asked a lot about scorpion care, housing, and husbandry. In this blog article we’ll answer the following questions:
Do scorpions make good pets? What do you need to set up a scorpion enclosure? How do I set up a scorpion enclosure? What types of scorpions is this set up appropriate for? Where can I buy a scorpion enclosure kit?
How to set up a scorpion enclosure
Do scorpions make good pets?
We certainly think that scorpions make great pets! However, they are certainly not for everyone.
Keep in mind that scorpions obviously have venomous, stinging tails and pinchers, so they can be dangerous if you don’t know how to handle one. Most people report that the sting of a scorpion feels similar to a bee sting and the effects of the venom vary from species to species, but usually, they don’t cause too much harm unless you happen to be allergic.
So, because scorpions require careful handling and a knowledge of how to handle a venomous invertebrate, we’d say make sure that you are not squeamish, afraid, or allergic before you decide to purchase a pet scorpion.
We’d also like to mention that scorpions are not meant to be interactive, social pets. They thrive when left alone to their own devices, so please don’t purchase a pet scorpion with the intent of handling it all the time. Scorpions are relatively secretive and will get stressed with too much human interaction.
So, the bottom line is if you are not allergic to scorpion venom, if you are okay with a mostly “look don’t touch” pet, and you aren’t squeamish around invertebrates, then a scorpion would make a great pet!
What will I need to set up a scorpion enclosure?
Believe it or not, scorpions cages are very simple. You don’t need a lot of room, decorations, or other accessories in order for your pet scorpion to thrive.
Listed below are the items needed to set up your pet scorpion’s home:
Cage/Enclosure/Home – This is a pretty obvious requirement. Clearly your scorpion will need an enclosed space of some sort to call its home. We recommend a clear plastic or glass box or tank so that you are able to view your scorpion when it emerges from hiding.
Ideally, your enclosure will be longer rather than it is taller and possess more horizontal space than it does vertical as scorpions are not arboreal invertebrates and won’t be doing any climbing.
We also highly recommend that your tank or cage have a lid. While it’s true that scorpions can’t really climb, especially up the walls of a glass tank, we do recommend it for safety purposes. A lid can help prevent many types of accidents and will also prevent your scorpion from getting out of its tank on the off chance that it is an escape artist.
Substrate – All scorpion cages should be lined with some sort of substrate. Scorpions can be burrowers, so make sure to choose a substrate that supports this habit. At Backwater Reptiles, we usually use coconut husk mixed with sand because it holds tunnels well and is very safe for the scorpion. However, depending on the species, you can use other types of substrates too.
Forest species will require some moisture, so substrates such as peat moss, coconut husk, and even orchid bark mixed with organic potting soil are all good options. Desert species such as the desert hairy scorpion, will require a much drier substrate. Sand is generally the best option for a desert species.
Pictured is the Backwater Reptiles scorpion kit. It includes all that you see – a plastic faunarium complete with lid, a brick of plantation soil substrate, a faux plant, a water dish, and a rock hide space. This set up works great with nearly all species of scorpions.
Hide Space – Scorpions are by nature pretty shy and secretive, so a hide space is essential. They require an area where they can feel secure and invisible from predators.
There are any number of hides you can make or purchase. We prefer something simple with a bit of weight to it so that the scorpion can’t accidentally displace or dislodge it.
Water Dish – Although you’ll likely never ever see your pet scorpion drinking water, it is still in the best interests of your scorpion to provide a sturdy water dish.
A water dish helps maintain proper humidity levels and is also important for hydration should your scorpion become thirsty.
We highly recommend a dish that is heavy enough to stay put. You don’t want a light weight dish that will tip over or spill water everywhere within the scorpion’s cage as this could lead to the growth of mold or fungus.
Foliage/Plant – Scorpions don’t need a lot of cage accessories to do well in captivity. Because they usually do best in relatively small enclosures, we recommend a small plastic plant that doesn’t spread out or stick up too high. This gives a natural look to the cage and also provides a bit of decoration.
Heating Pad/Heating Mat – If you maintain decent temperatures and don’t allow your room to grow too cold or too warm, most scorpions don’t absolutely require a heating element, although we do recommend it to at least give them the option to thermoregulate.
If you do choose to provide a heating element, we don’t recommend heat lights or lamps as scorpions tend to avoid light and will simply hide from it all day. Rather, we recommend investing in a heat mat that you secure to the side of the enclosure. Because scorpions are known for burrowing, sticking the mat to the bottom of the tank might actually create temperatures that are too warm and you could inadvertently “cook” your scorpion!
Springtails – Believe it or not, springtails are actually something living that you can add to your scorpion’s set up in order to promote a healthy cage ecosystem. They are however not a necessary addition to your scorpion’s set up and are completely optional.
Springtails are actually tiny little bugs that are helpful in breaking down waste elements in the scorpion’s environment. This is beneficial to all parties because this means you have to clean your scorpion’s enclosure less frequently and your scorpion is not walking around in its own waste.
Remember how we mentioned that you want to be careful when choosing a water dish as you don’t want to create excess moisture that could lead to fungus and mold growing within the scorpion’s enclosure? Well, springtails can actually help alleviate mold and fungus, so they are also beneficial when it comes to keeping harmful and invasive elements out of your scorpion’s environment.
How do I set up a scorpion enclosure?
Once you’ve obtained the items on the list above (read more on where to purchase these items later on in this article), it’s a very straight forward, simple process to prepare your scorpion’s enclosure.
The first step is to line your enclosure with your chosen substrate. Make sure that it is at the proper moisture level. Desert scorpions should have dry substrate, while tropical species should have more moisture. Usually you want the substrate to be damp but certainly not dripping.
Pictured is a young Arizona bark scorpion (Centruroides sculpturatus). This species is actually the most venomous in the entire United States, so be wary when purchasing one. You can follow the set up we describe in this blog article when keeping an Arizona bark scorpion, just make sure to choose an appropriate substrate. As its name suggests, this particular species prefers dry bark, wood, or leaf litter.
If you have a heating pad, secure it to one side of the enclosure, preferably on a side wall and not on the bottom of the tank.
All of the other elements of the set up – the water dish, the hide space, and the faux foliage – can be placed however you desire within the cage. We usually like to keep the water dish on the same side as the heat because the evaporation helps to maintain moisture levels. Just be aware that if you choose this option, you’ll likely need to refill the water dish more frequently.
As you can see, setting up the enclosure for a scorpion is really not rocket science. You basically just place the objects listed above in the cage as you choose and – voila – your scorpion’s home is ready to go!
What types of scorpions is this set up appropriate for?
This type of set up will work excellent for just about every type of scorpion available to keep as a pet.
We’d like to point out that the only real difference in cage set ups to be aware of is that desert scorpion species will require a dry substrate, whereas tropical species will require a moist substrate.
Otherwise, you can follow our instructions for setting up this type of scorpion enclosure for any species!
Where can I buy a scorpion enclosure kit?
If you’re wondering where to get all of the items listed above, it’s really actually very simple. Backwater Reptiles not only sells pet scorpions, we also sell scorpion kits!
Contained within the kit is the actual cage/terrarium itself, substrate, a plastic plant, and a water dish. The only items not included would be a heating pad and the springtails, although as we’ve mentioned, both are optional.
Pictured is a burrowing scorpion which is a species known for being able to dig burrows nearly five feet deep in the wild. In captivity, you’ll want to be sure to provide as much burrowing area as possible, which means securing a substrate that can hold tunnels and burrows. Coconut husk mixed with sand is great option.
All you need to do to find our scorpion kits is visit any “scorpion for sale” page and scroll down to the bottom of the page. There you will find listed two different sized scorpion kits. You can select from small/medium and medium/large depending on the size of your pet scorpion.
If you do wish to buy a heating element, you can go to any commercial pet store and obtain a reptile heating mat for relatively low cost.
You can also go to a commercial pet store to purchase all the elements included in the Backwater Reptiles scorpion kit, however it does save you time, energy, effort, and money to purchase a kit/bundle.
Unfortunately, springtails are not sold by Backwater Reptiles. They are also not commercially available in pet stores. If you wish to add springtails to your scorpion’s little ecosystem, then your best bet is to purchase them online.
Springtails make great additions to your scorpion’s cage, although they are not necessary. They’ll simply help maintain cleanliness by breaking down waste and harmful organisms like mold and fungi.
How to set up a scorpion enclosure video tutorial
Although we’ve written out how to set up a scorpion’s enclosure and detailed the supplies needed to do so, we’ve also included a brief video tutorial that walks you through the same process. You can view it below.
Conclusion
We hope this article has shown you how simple and easy it is to set up a scorpion’s enclosure.
Scorpions can make awesome pets for the right owner. If you want a very low maintenance pet that is mostly “for looks,” then a scorpion would be a good fit.
Although they’re not a very hands on or interactive pet, they can be very rewarding to keep and show off to friends and family.
But please, be smart when buying a scorpion. Make sure that if you do handle it, you do so with extreme caution. Although scorpions are not lethal (unless you have an allergy), their sting is still painful.
Don’t miss our other scorpion-related articles including:
Every snake owner knows that as their pet grows it will shed its skin. Normally, this process is accomplished quickly, easily, and without any issues. However, some snake species are prone to “bad” sheds or problem sheds where the entire skin does not come off in one neat, tubular piece.
Because incomplete sheds can become a health issue for a pet snake of any species, we’re dedicating this article to explaining what we do to remedy this problem at the Backwater Reptiles facility.
The Ideal Shedding Process
A normal shed occurs when a snake’s skin comes off in one single, tubular, opaque piece. It’s a very cool process and when your pet snake has completed a shed successfully, you actually have a really cool souvenir.
When a snake sheds its skin normally, the process is referred to as ecdysis. When the process doesn’t go smoothly and the skin sheds in flakes, pieces, or fails to come off properly in any way, the proper term becomes dysecdysis.
Healthy snakes with proper husbandry and humidity in their enclosure should shed their skin in one solid piece.
You can tell your pet snake is preparing to shed its skin because not only will its behavior change, its physical appearance will also change.
Many snakes will go into hiding prior to shedding. They will retreat into their hide box and tend to stay pretty immobile most of the time. They might also become aggressive or refuse food if you offer it. But don’t worry. If you notice your snake has become lethargic, you can also detect changes in its physical appearance that will tell you that your pet is not ill, but just preparing to shed.
Prior to shedding, snakes will develop grey, cloudy looking eyes. You will also notice that their skin appears duller in nature. For instance, many snakes have shiny, iridescent scales. You will be able to see them become less brilliant in color and the iridescence may disappear altogether.
Side note: When you notice the signs that your snake is preparing to shed, you should handle it as little as possible. You also should avoid feeding as odds are the snake won’t eat the food being offered anyway.
Often times, your pet snake will shed without you even being aware of the process. You might notice a change in behavior and appearance one day, go to sleep, and wake up the next morning with a clean tube of snake skin waiting for you in the cage.
Solution Number One – Giving Your Pet Snake a Bath
If you do notice that your snake has shed some skin but not cleanly, the first solution we’d recommend would be to provide a large soaking dish within your snake’s cage if there is not already one provided. Often times problem sheds are caused by lack of humidity, so providing a bowl or water dish where your snake can go to naturally remedy the problem is a good place to start.
But what if you have an arboreal snake that doesn’t necessarily enjoy a good soak? Well, then you may just have to help the snake by giving it a bath or confining it to a sealed container with water for a time.
We recommend manually giving the snake a bath only if you know your snake has a pleasant temperament. You don’t want to try bathing and removing stuck skin on a grumpy snake.
If your snake is small enough, calm enough, and receptive enough to a manual bath, then fill a bowl or basin with lukewarm water. You want to be careful the water is not too cold or too hot as you don’t want to shock the snake’s system. Carefully immerse the snake in the water while making sure its head doesn’t get submerged. Many small snakes will let you hold them and dip them in the water. You can also dribble water over the snake while holding it if your snake doesn’t enjoy being in the water fully.
While manually bathing, it’s also useful to massage the snake’s body where the problem skin resides. Generally, once the skin has moistened, it will loosen naturally and you can gently rub it off.
If your snake is too large for the manual bath method or gets grumpy easily, then obtain a container with a lid that is large enough to hold your snake. Fill the container with enough lukewarm water so that your snake is submerged as much as possible but does not have to swim. You don’t want your snake to drown!
Once your container holds the appropriate amount of water, it can be helpful to place a rough object in the pool with the snake. This is because the snake will rub against it, either intentionally or unintentionally, and this will help remove the remaining skin. We’d recommend a textured rock or brick – just be sure there are no sharp edges for the snake to injure itself on.
The final step is obviously to place your snake in the container and shut the lid so that it has no choice but to hydrate. We always recommend standing by or placing the container somewhere it is always visible. It is never wise to leave a soaking reptile of any kind unattended, despite taking all the proper precautions.
If all goes well with the confined soak, you should be able to gently slough off any remaining skin pieces very easily after about fifteen to thirty minutes without harming the snake.
Solution Number Two – Putting a Rough or Coarse Object in the Snake’s Enclosure
Sometimes all a snake needs in order to complete a tough shed is something rough to rub itself against.
If you’ve noticed your snake soaking itself, placing a rough object in the cage is probably the easiest and most low maintenance solution.
Just like with the manual bath/soak method, a textured stone or a piece of brick can work wonders. As previously mentioned, please be sure that even though the object is rough that there are no sharp edges for the snake to cut itself on.
Once the object is in the cage, keep a close eye on the progress of the snake. If the problem skin still isn’t fully coming off, you can always try a confined soak or manual bath to finish off the process.
Solution Number Three – Use a Commercial Shed Aid
If all else fails, there are actually commercially produced reptile shed aid solutions that can assist your snake through a tough shed.
These products are essentially “snake conditioners” and can be used in conjunction with the soak/bath method.
You can use the products by adding them to the snake’s bath itself, or you can lightly coat your snake after it has had a bath to help remove any remaining skin pieces.
We’d like to make note that we prefer the natural method of lukewarm water because nine times out of ten, this method will eliminate any stuck pieces of skin.
Troublesome Eye Caps
One aspect of problematic sheds that we’d like to touch upon specifically is what to do when your snake doesn’t properly shed its eye caps. Just for reference, the eye caps, or spectacles as some like to call them, are the scales that cover the snake’s eyes. Because snakes lack eyelids, they have a special scale to protect and keep their eyes moist. This scale can often stay put during problem sheds and can require special tactics to remove safely.
Retained eye caps can occur with both normal and problematic sheds. If you notice after any kind of shedding that your snake’s eyes are still cloudy, you might have to intervene and remove the eye caps yourself.
Because your snake’s vision will be impaired, sometimes it will make the necessary efforts to remove the retained spectacle itself. You may have to do nothing at all. We recommend making sure there are rough surfaces for the snake to rub on within its enclosure and waiting a day or two after noticing the problem. If the eye cap is still present, then you should make efforts to remove it manually.
Although this bull snake is only in pre-shed mode, a retained eye cap will look cloudy and grey like this snake’s eyes. It may also appear somewhat wrinkled.
Make sure that you are confident and comfortable handling your pet snake before you attempt to remove retained eye caps by yourself. It requires patience, confidence, and a knowledge of your snake’s mannerisms and temperament.
The first thing you should do is to moisten the eye cap. Because snakes don’t like to have their heads submerged under water, we recommend dribbling lukewarm water onto the affected eye cap and allowing it to sink in as much as possible. Next, gently rub the eye cap with a q-tip or fingertip. Make sure you have a light touch. This is simply to attempt to begin the process as you will usually need tweezers to completely remove the eye cap.
After you’ve softly rubbed the retained cap enough that you can see an edge, very carefully grip the loosened edge with your blunt tweezers. Please don’t use sharp or pointy tweezers because if your snake jerks or moves, it could spell disaster. Very slowly remove the retained spectacle using the tweezers. Don’t pry – if it is not coming off with gentle manipulation, it needs to be moistened more or your snake might need to make a trip to the vet.
Make sure to monitor your snake’s behavior closely during this entire process. Many snakes will sit calmly through the process, but others will not like you being that close to their head and may start to show signs of aggression, even if they are normally well-behaved.
It will take some time and lots of patience, but with proper moistening and effort, you should be able to remove the eye cap safely.
Side note: If your snake has several layers of unshed eye caps (usually only happens with poor husbandry habits), or if it is known for being aggressive, it’s probably best to take the snake to your local veterinarian. They will be able to properly anesthetize the animal and remove the eye caps during that time.
Preventing Future Problematic Sheds
The number one reason why snakes have issues with shedding is that their enclosure is not humid enough. Although different species from different habitats will obviously require different humidity levels, most species tend to need anywhere from fifty to seventy percent humidity.
Once you have determined the proper humidity level that is required for your species of snake, there are several things you can do to maintain this humidity.
The number one thing is to make sure your snake has a water dish! This should be common sense as snakes do actually drink water, but having water present in the snake’s immediate environment is key. You can also place an under the tank heating mat directly underneath the water source to help speed evaporation and therefore increase humidity within the cage.
Another option is to include a moisture box in your snake’s home. What this usually entails is creating a separate hide box and filling it with a substrate that retains moisture well such as sphagnum moss or moist paper towels. Be sure to check your moisture box frequently for mold though as you don’t want to unintentionally create a toxic environment for your snake.
And lastly, instead of altering the humidity levels within the snake’s cage, you can actually change the humidity within the room itself. Just go to any drug store or big box retailer and buy a humidifier. A hygrometer can help you measure the humidity in the room to make sure it is at the proper level for your snake.
Helping Large or Temperamental Snakes Through Problem Sheds
If your snake is very large, or if it has a bad temper, it might simply be wisest to take the snake to the vet to assist with an incomplete shed. This is particularly true if you are having trouble with retained eye caps.
However, this is pretty much going to be up to the discretion of the owner. Most snakes will put up with a certain level of handling, even if they do have a testy disposition.
We would however recommend that you wear leather gloves or some other form of protection if you know that your snake is prone to biting.
Conclusion
Snakes make wonderful pets, but like all reptiles, it’s very possible that you will have to deal with an incomplete or problem shed at some point during your snake’s life.
This article is intended to help out should your own pet snake encounter this issue as well as help prevent this issue from occurring in the first place.
If you have any other tips or suggestions for how you’ve helped your own snake through a difficult shed, feel free to leave them in the comments section.
