Best Pet Snakes for Beginners

If you’re wondering what the best pet snakes are for beginners, you’ve come to the right place. We’ve got decades of experience keeping and breeding reptiles of all sizes, and we’ve put together an easy-to-read list for you.

If you’re ready to add a snake to your family, or are buying one as a gift for someone else, but are unsure what species is most recommended, read on to find out which pet snakes we think are best for beginners.

Best Pet Snakes for Beginners

4. Ball Python (Python regius)

Ball Pythons are the most popular pet pythons in the reptile world. They are bred to be available in many morphs ranging from the “normal” coloration to pure white. They are also very docile snakes that take to human handling well.

pet Ball Python
A juvenile ball python. This is a regular morph animal, but ball pythons are bred to be many different colors.

They’ll start out around ten inches in length and the females will max out at around three to five feet long. Males, on the other hand, will be slightly smaller at approximately three feet long. And they grow quickly!

We’ve put them at number four on our list because beginners will have to upgrade their python’s enclosure as it grows…or alternatively, start out with a cage that’s very large for the hatchling.

3. Boa Constrictor (Boa c. constrictor or Boa c. imperator)

There are actually two species of boa constrictor that are common in the reptile pet world. They look very similar, behave very similarly, and have nearly identical care requirements. In fact, we wrote a whole separate blog article about the differences between Columbian red-tail boas and Central American boas.

Boa Constrictor Comparison
Here is a visual comparison of the two most common boa species in the pet trade. They are both extremely similar.

Both species of boa are great for beginners because of their easy-going temperaments and basic care requirements. Like all snakes, boas will eat mice – frozen/thawed being the preferred option. They will need a heat source and a light can be provided as well.

Pet Boa constrictor eating a mouse
This is a boa eating a fuzzie.

They will grow to be around five to seven feet in length, although sometimes they can be longer. This means that they can start out with a home as simple as a plastic shoebox when young, but will need to have a larger home with lots of horizontal space as they mature and grow.

2. King Snake (Lampropeltis g. californiae)

We recommend king snakes for beginners because they are so wide spread in the wild. This means that they are very hardy snakes with adaptable living requirements and will generally do very well in captivity. They can even thrive in areas that receive yearly snowfall.

King snakes can be purchased from reptile breeders in a multitude of colorful morphs. If you’re interested in exploring king snake morphs in more depth, we have written an entire article on the most popular kingsnake morphs. There is pretty much a morph for all aesthetic preferences.

Pet California kingsnake (Lampropeltis californiae)
This is a chocolate morph king snake. There are many morphs to choose from.

King snakes will grow to be an average of three to four feet in length, although they can actually get over six feet long when fed well and given the space to grow.

Keep in mind that king snakes are rather “thin” snakes, unlike their bulkier python and boa cousins. This means that even though they might be the same length or longer than a boa or python, they will weigh significantly less and be easier to handle.

And the best pet snake for beginners is…

1. Corn Snake

The corn snake is our top snake for beginners because it’s a very well-rounded pet reptile. They come in a seemingly endless variety of morphs and color schemes (read our in-depth article on popular corn snake morphs), they’re well mannered and docile, they have simple care requirements, and are a hardy animal that will live a long life when provided with proper care.

Corn snake hatchlings begin life at approximately eight to twelve inches long and will be around the diameter of a pencil. They are fast little snakes, but have really calm demeanors and are generally not nippy towards their handlers/owners. Hatchlings don’t need fancy enclosures – a plastic shoe box with a heat source, water dish, and a hide space will suffice.

best pet corn snake
This is a normal morph corn snake, but these fun snakes are available in many different morphs.

As corn snakes grow, they do become escape artists (this is actually true of almost any species of snake) and so you will need to get a bigger enclosure with a secure lid. Adults around four to five feet long should have at least a twenty gallon tank to slither around in.

Conclusion

We hope you learned something from our list of the best pet snakes for beginners. Backwater Reptiles would absolutely recommend any of these species to a first-time snake owner.

Backwater Reptiles offers all of these species of snakes for sale on our website, so check us out today!

Green Anole vs. Brown Anole

Reptile enthusiasts have been keeping anole lizards as pets for many years. They’re even readily available at chain pet stores these days. But did you know that there are actually many species of anoles? In this article, we’ll explain the similarities and details between the two most common types – the green anole (Anolis carolinensis) and the brown anole (Anolis sagrei).

Green Anole vs. Brown Anole

Morphology & Appearance

Would you believe that the main difference between brown and green anoles as far as looks go is color? The green anole is usually green and the brown anole is always some shade of brown…go figure, right?

As far as body shape goes, both species have long, lean bodies with limber legs and somewhat blocky, triangular heads. Each species also possesses a dewlap underneath its bottom jaw which is used in territorial displays. The green anole’s dewlap is pink or red while the brown anole’s is a dark reddish brown color.

brown anole pet
See how the dewlap on this Brown Anole is a deep red in color?

Both species are able to change color within a limited spectrum. The green anole can display either a bright green color or a dull, brown shade. The brown anole, on the other hand, cannot turn green (i.e. is always brown) and will usually have stripes, spots, or bars on its back.

Habits & Lifestyle

Both anole species are insectivorous and will consume any insect they can fit in their mouths. They will even cannibalize smaller anoles!

Both the green and brown anole are fairly small lizards reaching virtually the same size when fully mature. Males are generally larger than the females and will max out at around eight inches in length. The females will grow to be around six inches long.

green anole (anolis carolinensis)

Both species can be found in the U.S., although only the green anole is native. The brown anole originated in Cuba and the Bahamas and is therefore considered an invasive species in the U.S. Currently, the two species occupy much of the same habitat and territory and compete fiercely.

Anoles, both green and brown, are avid climbers and are commonly found in trees, sunning on fences, and on the sides of houses.

Keeping Anoles in Captivity

As previously mentioned, green and brown anoles are very common pet lizards with virtually the same care requirements. They are very easy to maintain and make great starter lizards.

Because anoles are arboreal lizards, make sure that you have more vertical than horizontal enclosure space for either species of anole. These guys are climbers and feel at home in foliage, so be sure you include some vines and/or plant foliage that they can hide in.

Both green and brown anoles are “sunny” little lizards that enjoy warm climates, so your anole should get around eight hours of daylight (i.e. full spectrum UV lighting) as well as a heat lamp that maintains basking temperature of approximately 90 degrees in the daytime.

green anole
Here’s a top view of the Green Anole.

You can feed both species of anole crickets, meal worms, small roaches, and other appropriately-sized feeder invertebrates. A water dish can be provided, but don’t be surprised if your anole won’t drink from it, since not all anoles seem to recognize a water dish. Also, make sure the dish is very shallow because anoles can be trapped easily and drown in a deep water dish. If your anole doesn’t hydrate from a water dish, it will lap water that collects in little pools on leaves and branches, so misting would then be a requirement.

green anole vs brown anole

We hope this helps shed some light on the similarities and differences between these two common lizards. Backwater Reptiles offers both green anoles for sale as well as brown anoles for sale on our website.

Tomato Frog Facts (Dyscophus guineti)

Ever wanted to know more about the pudgy Tomato Frog? Well, here’s your chance. Read on and let our factoids school you on this red amphibian!

Tomato Frog – Fact One

We bet you’ll never guess how the Tomato Frog (Dyscophus guineti) came by its common name…but, just in case you haven’t already figured it out, scientists and taxonomists like to name animals after things they resemble. And the tomato frog, due to its squat, round nature and red color, was appropriately named after the common fruit.

tomato frog facts
Because this frog looks more flat and melty than he does round and spherical, we think he resembles a tomato-based food product like lasagna more than an actual tomato! :-P

Tomato Frog – Fact Two

Adult tomato frogs and juveniles can look very different from one another. The babies might still have the same color scheme, but they are much slimmer frogs. As they grow, they will develop more vibrant red colors and pack on the pounds.

tomato frogs
Juvenile & adult tomato frog side by side comparison. Notice how slim the juvenile is when compared to the adult.

Tomato Frog – Fact Three

Adult males are smaller and duller in color than the females. Males grow to reach about 2.5 inches max, while females can grow to be four inches long snout to vent.

They can be long-lived frogs when properly cared for living up to ten years in captivity. On average, however, six years is a far more common life span.

tomato frog adult
An adult tomato frog.

Tomato Frog – Fact Four

A ten-gallon tank is large enough to house two adult tomato frogs, but a 20 gallon would be ideal.

Tomato frogs are secretive animals and enjoy burrowing and hiding, so be sure to provide your frog with a substrate such as soil or coconut fiber/mulch to allow this behavior. It’s also wise not to put any heavy decorative items in their enclosure since they can accidentally crush themselves by burrowing underneath.

dyscophus guineti
Top view of a tomato frog which demonstrates how these round frogs get their name.

Tomato Frog – Fact Five

Tomato frogs are carnivores and will only eat live insects such as crickets, wax worms, silk worms, and roaches. They also enjoy night crawlers.

It’s a good idea to dust your feeder insects once a week when dealing with adults and more frequently when feeding hatchlings and juveniles.

tomato frog picture
Tomato frog baby

We hope you enjoyed reading our Tomato Frog facts. We think they are fascinating frogs, plus we have a special fondness for fat frogs at Backwater Reptiles. We currently have both hatchling and adult tomato frogs for sale.

How to Care for a Hatchling Eastern Box Turtle

Your hatchling Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene c. carolina) just arrived in the mail. Now you’re wondering how to care for your new little turtle friend. No worries – at Backwater Reptiles, we get loads of questions about how to best care for the animals we ship out, so we’re happy to tell you all about what we recommend in order to keep your little reptilian friend happy and healthy.

Right off the bat, your hatchling Eastern box turtle will obviously need a home in which to thrive. As they mature, the box turtles will do best when kept in outdoor pens (at least if you live where the weather permits this), but when they are under a year old, it is best to keep the little turtles in an indoor enclosure. Indoors they will be safe from neighborhood roaming pets, predatory birds, and other natural threats. Plus because they will be more sensitive to temperature fluctuations when young, you can better control their climate indoors. Another good reason to keep them indoors while they’re small is that you can better keep an eye on the food they are eating and make sure that they are getting the proper nutrients.

baby box turtle care
A cluster of our baby Eastern Box Turtles. Notice the shell pattern variation.

Baby Box turtle care

The hatchlings we sell at Backwater Reptiles are small enough to live in a ten or 20 gallon tank for the first year of their life. If you have multiple baby turtles in the same home, then the size of the enclosure will need to be bigger. You’ll need a proper heat lamp as well as a proper UV light, even if you take your turtle outdoors from time to time. Make sure that one side of their home is “sunny” with heat as well as a full-spectrum UV light.

If you’re new to reptile care and husbandry, it’s important that you know that the entire habitat cannot be hot and “sunny” – all reptiles need a cooler side of the enclosure to retreat to. You wouldn’t enjoy spending all your time in the heat and sun, would you? Neither will your baby box turtle. This allows them to thermoregulate their body temperature.

box turtle pet
This is an adult Eastern Box Turtle. As they grow, their shell becomes more of a pronounced dome shape and they develop brighter colors.

Your hatchling box turtle will eat protein as well as veggies, but make sure that it has access to both. When they are little, they need more protein to allow them to grow, but they do still require plenty of leafy greens to supplement. Their diets tend to be more carnivorous at this young age.

As with many young reptiles, variety in the diet is important. You can feed the little turtle small crickets, turtle pellets, wax worms, meal worms, and any other insect that they can catch. As far as vegetation goes, dark leafy greens are always a good bet. Veggies like kale, collard greens, and spinach contain a lot of nutrients and your baby box turtle will love them.

hatchling box turtles
These hatchlings are roughly the size of a silver dollar. Notice the variety in shell coloration.

It’s important to note that like human beings, baby box turtles don’t all look the same. They have color variations and their markings can appear different from turtle to turtle. Some will have very dark shells and some will have lighter shells with more visible yellow tones – it’s all normal box turtle coloring.

Making sure your baby Box turtle has a damp hide spot is extremely important–do not ignore this advice! If you allow them to become dry, their eyes will seal, and they will begin to dessicate (dehydrate). It can lead to their death quickly.

We provide damp sphagnum moss on the cool side of the enclosure–always make sure it’s quite damp, but not soaking wet. They will bury themselves in this for part of the day. They tend to eat in the morning, and retire for the rest of the day. As babies, they lose hydration very quickly and their shells haven’t completely hardened, and their skin isn’t as thick as it will be as they mature.

Backwater Reptiles currently has an assortment of hatchling Eastern Box Turtles for sale. We love knowing that they go to homes with educated owners, so ask us questions in the comments if you have any.

Florida Softshell Turtle vs. Spiny Softshell Turtle

What’s the difference between Florida and Spiny softshell turtles? Here at Backwater Reptiles headquarters, we regularly ship out soft-shell turtles, but the two species that we have found to be the most popular (and prevalent) are the Florida Softshell Turtle (Apalone ferox) and the Spiny Softshell Turtle (Apalone spitfire). Read on if you want to learn about what makes these turtles similar and what makes them different.

Morphology & Appearance

As far as looks go, both species of turtle are semi-flat with soft shells – go figure, right? We’ve heard them described as wet, leathery pancake turtles before and don’t disagree. They also both have snooty little protruding snout noses, long necks, and paddle-like back feet.

florida softshell vs spiny softshell turtle
Notice the yellow edging on this hatchling Florida soft shell’s shell.

What really makes these two turtles differ from one another in appearance most is the patterns and colors on their shells. The Florida softshell has orange markings on its head and edging its carapace. As it matures, these bright colors tend to fade into duller browns and olive green shades. The spiny softshell on the other hand, is a shade of brown, tan, or olive with darker speckles on the shell. Another distinguishing trait of the spiny softshell are the small spines that edge the circumference of the turtle’s shell.

Eating Habits

Both species of softshell turtle are carnivorous and eat prey items ranging from small crayfish to aquatic insects. In the wild, both are opportunistic feeders and will eat any animal that is small enough to fit in their mouth.

spiny softshell turtle
Notice how flat the shell is on this hatchling spiny soft-shell turtle.

In captivity, we feed ours crickets, canned insects, and even roaches. They can also eat small feeder fish from any pet store or varieties of frozen worm turtle pellets (i.e. bloodworm pellets).

Keeping Softshells in Captivity

Because their morphology is very similar, both the Florida softshell and the spiny softshell have very similar care requirements when kept in captivity.

The first thing to consider before purchasing a pet softshell is their size. For a turtle, they can grow quite large. The average size for a softshell is 12 inches, but it’s not unheard of for these guys to get up to two feet long. Large turtle = large enclosure, so keep that in mind when purchasing.

florida softshell turtle
This photo provides a view of the Florida softshell turtle’s shell spots and yellow edging.

Softshells are also known for their attitudes. They have been known to bite not only handlers but other turtles. Make sure that they are not bullying their tank mates (if they have any).

Because both the Florida softshell and the spiny softshell are scooters and burrowers, they require a substrate that supports both these habits. Sand is best because in addition to being burrow-able, the turtles will scoot underneath it and exfoliate their shells, eliminating bacteria and fungi and stimulating new shell cell growth.

Due to the soft nature of their shells, hard, abrasive rocks and other decorative items need to be avoided because the turtles will scuff against them and injure themselves.

Although they are mainly aquatic, softshells are regular baskets as well, so an adequate basking area must be maintained. Make sure that they can safely get all the way out of the water and heat themselves as well as absorb the proper UV lights.

apalone ferox vs apalone spinifera

Ultimately, if you can handle the attitude that they sometimes pack, both species of softshell turtle make great pets. Backwater Reptiles currently offers captive bred spiny softshell turtles for sale and captive bred Florida softshell turtles for sale.