Lizards

Unboxing Your New Pet Reptile, Amphibian, or Invertebrate

~ BackwaterReptiles

Not all pets are purchased from a local breeder, commercial pet store, or rescued from a re-homing service. Many reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate species can actually be shipped right to your door overnight, which is where Backwater Reptiles comes in!

Did you know that each year Backwater Reptiles ships hundreds of animals overnight to customers just like you as well as to zoos, universities, and other educational facilities?

While the concept of shipping an animal might seem foreign or strange to some, we want to assure our customers that we are experienced in packing our critters so that they have the safest journey to their new forever homes.

If you wish to learn more about exactly what is involved in our shipping and packing process, you can read all about it in this article.

costa rican zebra tarantula
Every year, Backwater Reptiles ships hundreds of animals to private homes, zoos, and even educational establishments. We ship arachnids, like this Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula, reptiles, amphibians, and all sorts of other invertebrates. Read this blog article to find out our recommendations for a safe and uneventful unboxing of your new pet!

I’ve signed for my new family member. What do I do now that I’ve received my package? Should I unpack the box in any special way? Will my new pet be a bit peeved, peckish, or thirsty after its travels?

Not to worry – we get loads of questions every day about these types of matters. In this article, we’ll answer not only these frequently asked questions about unpacking your new arrival, but go into detail about how to make sure your new pet has the opportunity to acclimate to its new home with the least amount of stress possible.

What Do I Do Now That I’ve Received My Package?

Unboxing Your New Pet Reptile

When you receive your new reptile, it will come specially packaged in a box for shipping live animals. We know it’s super exciting, but make sure you don’t shake the box or turn it upside down once it’s in your care.

We recommend placing the box on a sturdy, flat surface or counter and slitting the clear packing tape sealing the box flaps shut. Once you’ve done that, the box should open effortlessly and you can remove the styrofoam lid that keeps everything neatly in place.

Depending on the size of your reptile, it will either come in a breathable canvas bag or a plastic deli cup with a secure lid. Most snakes are shipped in bags, chameleons are generally shipped in bags, and larger lizards such as monitors and ameivas are also shipped in bags. Only very small reptiles such as baby Bearded Dragons, baby turtles, and baby Leopard Geckos tend to be shipped in deli cups.

Once the styrofoam lid has been safely removed, gently lift the bag or deli cup out of the insulated box. If your pet is in a clear deli cup, you’ll likely get your first glimpse of him/her at this point!

baby map turtle
Aquatic turtles such as this baby Map Turtle, will arrive safe and sound to your home in a secure deli cup with the appropriate amount of moisture. Packing with the box also depends highly on temperatures at the animal’s final destination.

Much like a long overnight flight can be draining to a human being, please keep in mind that the shipping process can be a tad stressful on the animals as well. They feel much the same way you would if you had traveled all night long, so we highly recommend allowing your new pet time to decompress and “stretch its legs” after its travels are over. This means keep the handling to a bare minimum for the first twenty-four hours.

If your reptile came in a bag, we recommend untying the fastening on the bag and opening it up after placing the bag inside the animal’s new enclosure. Allow the critter to come out of its travel bag on its own terms and don’t force the animal out unless absolutely necessary.

If your reptile arrived in a deli cup, we recommend removing the cup’s lid and placing it inside the enclosure to allow the animal to exit the cup at its own personal leisure. You can also gently “tip” the animal out of the cup and into the enclosure as well.

In order to ensure your new pet feels at home as swiftly as possible, make sure that your enclosure has all the proper equipment needed. Your pet might be a bit cold and need to warm up, it might be thirsty, or it might need to use the bathroom, so make sure that you offer fresh water, a good place to hide, and a heated area with the proper temperature required for your specific animal’s needs.

Many people think that it’s a good idea to feed their new reptile right away. We do try to make sure that our critters are shipped on stomachs that aren’t too full or too empty, so do not be alarmed if your pet doesn’t show interest in food right away. It’s normal for it to take a day or two (or sometimes even more depending on the species) before your pet will eat. Our recommendation is to offer food and if the animal shows no interest in it, remove the food and try again in a few hours or the following day.

Unboxing Your New Pet Amphibian

Although the external packaging for pet amphibians to travel in the mail is the same as a pet reptile, the internal packing will vary slightly.

Amphibians require moisture to stay healthy, so your amphibian, whether you ordered a frog, toad, salamander, or newt, will be traveling in a deli cup with damp or wet paper towels or other appropriate substrate and a secure lid.

The interior of the box will contain styrofoam panels to keep the cup secure while in transit. You will need to remove the top “lid” panel and then gently lift the deli cup out.

slender salamander
Amphibians, such as this Slender Salamander, are packed differently than reptiles or invertebrates. They need more moisture to ensure a successful journey.

As with a pet reptile, you will want to avoid handling your new amphibian right away if you have ordered a species that is suitable for human interaction. Keep in mind that newts, salamanders, and many species of frog and toad are best as display pets and don’t do well being coddled or held.

By now your amphibian’s habitat should be all set up and ready to go. You’ll want to make sure that your new family member gets plenty of moisture and a safe place to hide right away. You might even want to mist your pet once you get him or her into the enclosure just in case the shipping process left them a tiny bit dehydrated.

Gently open the deli cup within the enclosure and allow the animal to come out on its own terms. Or alternatively, you can also very carefully tip the cup and get your pet to come out.

You can follow the same feeding instructions with an amphibian as with a pet reptile. Your pet may or may not show any interest in food once it is in its new environment, so don’t be alarmed if you offer insects or other fare and it is ignored. Make sure you remove any uneaten food, especially crickets, and try again the following day.

Unboxing Your New Pet Invertebrate

Invertebrates will travel in plastic deli cups since bags are not solid enough to protect their delicate frames. This is particularly true of tarantulas that have urticating hairs as a defense mechanism.

Spiderlings and spider slings will come in very small cups. They are very fast little critters and are also very good at hiding, so be extremely careful when opening up a cup containing a spiderling! In order to avoid any mishaps, we highly recommend opening the cup over top of or inside of the spider’s enclosure. This way if the spiderling jumps or climbs out very quickly, it will land in a safe place inside its habitat and will not fall a large height to the floor. It also means less work for you as you won’t be chasing a speedy spiderling around the house!

Larger invertebrates such as scorpions and tarantulas with longer leg spans will be a bit slower than their baby counterparts. However, because they are venomous, you should still exercise caution when opening the lid of their shipping container. Some of the more aggressive species might be eager to get out!

We recommend the same technique for getting larger invertebrates into their new enclosures. Open the cup slowly and carefully inside the new habitat and allow the critter to come out when it feels good and ready. We don’t recommend transferring the animal from the cup to its cage with your hands since it is likely a little grumpy after its overnight travels.

brown bark scorpion
Be very careful when opening up deli cups containing invertebrates such as this Brown Bark Scorpion. They can be quick and invertebrates sometimes have temperamental dispositions.

Some species, like centipedes and aggressive baboon tarantulas, should not be held at all, so it is even more imperative that you gently coax them into their new enclosure without making contact with your hands if you can at all avoid it.

Again, it’s highly likely that your new invertebrate will be uninterested in eating right away. Make sure that it has a water source and the other appropriate amenities in its new home and offer food that evening or even the following day. Many invertebrate species are nocturnal eaters anyways, so don’t be surprised if they won’t eat until nightfall.

Conclusion

Whether you ordered a reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate, you should exercise caution and be gentle during the unboxing process. Try to make the procedure as smooth and streamlined as possible and limit stress on your new friend by keeping handling to a minimum for the first 24 hours at least.

It’s very common for animals to not eat for the first day or two depending on the species. Don’t be alarmed if this is the case with your new pet. Offer food regularly and remove any uneaten remnants. More important than food is a water source for hydration as shipping can often make animals thirsty.

If you ever have any questions about an animal after you have received it or you have issues of any sort upon unboxing, remember that our customer service team is always happy to assist you. Just email them at sales@backwaterreptiles.com and they will happily offer suggestions and tips if you need any.

Which Substrate is Right for Your Reptile?

~ BackwaterReptiles

The first step in caring for a new pet reptile, amphibian or invertebrate is to make sure that it has a suitable environment to make its home. This means that you’ll need to set up an enclosure that mimics the animal’s natural habitat as closely as possible. You’ll need to take into account temperature, lighting, cage accessories, and humidity.

Another very important aspect of creating your new pet’s ideal home that can easily be overlooked is substrate. You wouldn’t want to live in a house without carpet, tile, or some other type of finished flooring, would you? Similarly, our herp friends need appropriate “flooring” in their cage in order to thrive and live long, happy herp lives.

In this article, we will discuss various types of substrates and which types of animals they are best suited for.

types of substrate
There are so many options when it comes to reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate substrates.

What options do I have when it comes to substrate?

Did you know that choosing the correct type of substrate is essential not only to an attractive-looking cage, but a healthy herp as well? Not all substrates are right for all types of animals, and it is very important that you do your research prior to choosing a substrate.

Substrates help keep cages clean, make it easier to collect and spot clean feces, waste, and shed skin, and they also ensure that your pet feels at home and unstressed in its environment.

Below, we’ve listed the pros and cons of the most popular types of substrates and what types of animals they are best suited for.

Wood

Substrates made of wood are usually broken down into chips, shavings or pellets. Aspen is a very common example of a wood substrate, however wooden substrate can be made of cedar, pine, aspen, and cypress.

Pros:

Wood substrates are generally very easy to obtain from nearly every pet store.  You need not travel far to find the most common types of wood substrates.

Wood substrates like aspen snake bedding work very well for species that prefer dryer environments. With a high moisture absorbency rate and a tendency to stay dry overall, it’s a great option for burrowers who don’t need a lot of humidity in their environment.

Wood shavings, pellets, and chips are very easy to spot clean. Waste tends to stay put and not be dragged around or aggregate throughout the enclosure, so when it’s time to tidy up, not much effort or time is needed.

Cons: 

Some shavings can be too “hard” on specific species. For instance, shavings can hurt sensitive toes and hands or even act like splinters.

Some types of wooden substrates might be dyed or colored and this could negatively impact the health of your animal. Be sure to check the label to ensure this is not the case.

Cedar is not a safe substrate for most reptile species, particularly snakes! The oils present in cedar are commonly accepted to be toxic to many reptiles. Our advice? Steer clear of cedar altogether!

wood shavings as substrate
This Arizona Bark Scorpion was being kept in an enclosure with moist wood shavings.

Reptile Carpet

Reptile carpet is exactly what it sounds like. It usually comes packaged in a roll and has the texture of felt crossed with astroturf. It’s a nifty miniature liner for your reptile’s cage and it usually comes in a few different colors.

Pros:

Most of the carpets sold are washable! This means you can re-use them and not have to keep buying other types of substrate once they get dirty.

They can come in sizes predesigned for specific common herp habitat sizes. They also come in sizes that you can shape or cut to your desired size. There’s lots of flexibility.

You don’t have to worry about your pet accidentally ingesting substrate. Carpet has no loose pieces or small bits for reptiles or amphibians to eat.

Cons:

They are not as natural-looking as wood, soil, or moss substrates, so fans of life-like enclosures are generally not drawn to reptile carpet.

Paper Towels/Newspaper

Paper towels and newspaper aren’t really substrates that require much explaining. Both are paper products and both are commonly found in most households.

Pros:

Both these options are cheap! And you can also feel good knowing that you are recycling your newspaper after its initial first use.

Paper towels and newspaper are very sanitary. Because they are so inexpensive, they can be changed very quickly when soiled without much fuss.

They can be used for a multitude of different types of herps. You can shred them and make them a “fluffy” substrate suitable for burrowers, or you can lie them flat on the bottom of the cage.

Due to the texture and content of both newspaper and paper towels, there is also no need to worry about your pet accidentally ingesting substrate while eating. Therefore, you need not stress about impaction or move your pet during feeding sessions.

Cons:

Many herp owners who create elaborate and fancy habitats for their pets won’t use paper towels or newspaper because it’s not very aesthetically pleasing.

Paper towels and newspapers are great at absorption, however they lack odor control. If you are not able to change them quickly when they get dirty, the smell can get a little powerful.

Alfalfa Pellets

These compact little pellets are made of ground up alfalfa hay that is then compressed into tiny cylindrical bits.  They are dry and absorbent and generally work well for iguanas, bearded dragons, and even Uromastyx lizards.

Pros:

These are absorbent! That means that the waste products of well-hydrated reptiles will be kept in a single spot and can be cleaned up with very little mess or hassle.

Pellets are usually biodegradable and even have built-in odor control. Because the pellets are made from natural plant fibers, they are also safe in accidentally ingested.

Cons:

As previously mentioned, alfalfa pellets are quite dry. This means that they are not the best substrate for all types of pets. Make sure you are using alfalfa pellets only if your pet tolerates low humidity well.

Coconut Fiber

As its name suggests, coconut fiber is made from the husks/shells of coconuts. It can be sold in broken down, loose form in bags or compact little bricks.

Pros:

Coconut fiber is very versatile and works for a broad range of exotic pets. It is natural and therefore safe for animals to burrow in and it holds its shape well which means that it accommodates this type of behavior well.

It’s also helpful in maintaining proper humidity levels since it holds moisture well. Coconut fiber is a smart bedding choice for many tropical species and also works well with invertebrates.

Cons:

Coconut fiber can be a bit on the tougher side to keep clean. Because it holds moisture efficiently, it can pose an issue with clumping together and holding your pet’s waste all in one place for easy spot cleaning.

Moss

The two main types of moss used for substrate are peat moss and Spanish moss. Both can be purchased at pet stores.

Pros:

Moss is very aesthetically pleasing when creating natural-looking reptile enclosures. It adds color and texture to plain cages and provides many hiding places for animals.

Moss is also a good way to maintain proper humidity levels as it holds moisture well. Many amphibian owners choose moss as either an accent or mix-in for lining their pet’s cage.

Cons:

In order to avoid bacteria or fungus growing on the moist moss, it will have to be removed and dried out periodically. Many herp owners find that it’s just easier to purchase new moss rather than go through the process of disinfecting the moss, which does involve baking it.

Moss will also generally need another “thicker” or heftier substrate underneath it when using it line the bottom of an animal’s cage. Moss is best used as an accent to help maintain proper moisture levels and is generally  not used as a solo substrate.

ashy gecko
This Ashy Gecko was being kept in an enclosure with a moss additive in order to maintain proper humidity levels.

Organic Potting Soil

This is a pretty simple and straight forward substrate. Soil that is not treated with chemicals or fertilizers is an extremely versatile option when it comes to reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate  bedding.

Pros:

Versatility! Potting soil can be used for many species of lizards, lots of invertebrates such as scorpions and arachnids, and also certain types of amphibians.

Potting soil is great for burrowing. Because it tends to hold just the right amount of moisture, it also holds its shape nicely so that burrowers can dig and tunnel and the soil won’t collapse on them.

You can purchase potting soil in many different locations including hardware store, department stores with garden sections, and even nurseries. This means that you likely won’t have to visit a special store in order to purchase what you need. But again, we’d like to stress that the soil must be organic and untreated with chemicals, fertilizers, or other plant growth promoting compounds.

Cons:

You can easily get potting soil too wet on accident. Unlike many other substrates that retain moisture well, soil cannot be easily dried or “wrung out” in the same manner that moss or pellets can. Once you get soil too wet, you essentially just have to wait for it to dry. And believe us when we say that you don’t want substrate that is too moist. It can lead to a whole host of problems including fungus, respiratory ailments in your pet, and bacterial infections.

Vermiculite or Perlite

Both of these substrates are used to help retain water in horticulture. They are usually added to soil. They are a bit unconventional and you probably won’t see too many herp hobbyists using them solo to line cage bottoms.

Pros:

Excellent moisture content! Both vermiculite and perlite are minerals that absorb and retain water, which is why they are commonly used in horticulture. This means they are also a sensible option for maintaining moisture and humidity levels with exotic pets.

Both of these types of substrate are commonly used as incubating mediums for reptile eggs.

Cons:

Both vermiculite and perlite are best used as accents to a staple substrate to help retain moisture. We don’t recommend using them alone as substrate, unless you are incubating eggs.

Vermiculite and perlite are also probably not the most cost effective type of substrate. For the quantity you should be using, you’ll be paying a bit more than many of the other options listed.

Sand

Reptile sand is commonly available at virtually all commercial pet stores, however playground sand purchased from a toy store can also be used.

Pros:

Sand is readily available and easy to find at various stores. It’s also generally very aesthetically appealing. It even comes in different colors if you want to create a fun, flashy enclosure for your pet.

Cons:

Sand can be messy! If you get it wet, it clumps and can stick to your pet’s feet, tail, and legs. Plus it’s a hassle to clean if you get any outside of the cage.

Impaction is a huge concern when housing a reptile on sand. If your pet accidentally ingests sand while consuming live prey, you run the risk of creating a blockage in the animal’s digestive tract which will be difficult for the animal to pass.

Sand also does not provide much (or any) odor control.

No Substrate

Most pet reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates should always have a substrate of some kind lining the bottom of their enclosure. However, with certain arboreal species, substrate is not a necessity.

A great example of a species that does well with no substrate are chameleons. Because chameleons are rarely down on the bottom of their cages and spend the majority of their time in the plants and vines in their enclosures, it’s not necessary to line the bottom of their cage in order to make the lizard feel more at ease. Some chameleon owners do still line their cage bottoms with paper towels in order to easily collect and remove dead insects and feces, however it is not a requirement for the  health of the chameleon.

ambanja panther chameleon
Did you know that most species of chameleon actually don’t need a substrate in their cage to be healthy and happy?

Conclusion

It’s important to do your research when selecting a substrate that is appropriate for your pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate. Substrates are not “one size fits all” and different animals will most certainly require different beddings.

What type of substrate does your critter use?

Raptor’s Story – A Blue Tongue Skink Rehab Diary

~ BackwaterReptiles

blue tongue skink rescue

We received Raptor as a rescue quite a few months back and he unfortunately came in with some pretty hefty concerns. We first noticed he had some breathing problems and difficulty shedding, mostly around his back, but we were determined to get him back to full health.

Blue Tongue Skink Rehab
Although Maura worked with Raptor quite a bit during his recovery process, you can see from this photo that he is still quite a feisty little guy with tons of attitude!

Since is is an Indonesian Blue Tongue Skink, we immediately housed Raptor in a humid, warm shelf with a heat pad because the problems he had were most likely caused by improper humidity.

The Indonesian Blue Tongue Skink species need higher humidity levels of around sixty to seventy percent as too dry of an enclosure can cause upper respiratory infections and improper shedding, which can then lead to skin infections and loss of toes.

Unfortunately, it was too late for Raptor and we very quickly started noticing he had developed what looked to be a large bacterial infection under the scales of his back leading to much discomfort and a feisty attitude, which earned him his name. We helped gently peel off the necrotic scales with tweezers when giving him baths, provided that the skin looked ready to be removed.

rehab blue tongue skink
We used paper towels as a more sanitary option for substrate during Raptor’s recovery. His skin and scales were also treated with Neosporin to fight his bacterial infection.

As a side note, we only recommend trying to help an animal shed its scales when it has to be done and can be done professionally and safely. Peeling dead skin off if it is not already loose can be quite painful for the animal.

After bathing Raptor, we would then dose the area with Neosporin antiseptic cream every other day for two weeks to help it heal and prevent the injured area from becoming too dried out.

Because of his back scale issues, we had to rehouse Raptor in a bare, tall enclosure with paper towels as a substrate, a large water dish, and of course the proper sixty to seventy percent humidity levels.

healing blue tongue skink
As you can see, Raptor’s skin needed some serious TLC when we first received him. Luckily, with much patience, treatment, and proper humidity levels, Raptor has made virtually a full recovery.

The humid air in his enclosure cleared up his breathing and at this point, he has just about made a full recovery from his infection, although his feisty attitude hasn’t changed!

How Does the Backwater Reptiles Shipping Process Work?

~ BackwaterReptiles

One of the biggest concerns many people have with purchasing an animal of any kind online is the safety of the animal during transit. To the unexperienced, it would seem like delivering a reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate in the mail would be dangerous. However, at Backwater Reptiles, we have years of experience packaging, shipping, and ensuring safe delivery of our animal cargo.

In this article, we will explain how we go about making sure that our animals and our customers are happy.

We will answer questions such as:
Exactly how safe is it to package and ship an animal? Isn’t it risky?
How does the entire ordering process work?
What happens if the animal is unintentionally harmed during transit?
How do I know that my pet will arrive safe and sound?
How will my pet be packaged?

We’ll even include a video demonstrating our packing method so that you can see exactly how the animals are boxed up.

How safe is it to package and ship a reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate? Isn’t it risky?

The short answer to this question is that it is very safe. Although there are rare instances where an unforeseen occurrence can injure an animal during the shipping process, it is rare. Most pets will arrive safe and sound at their new home with little to no stress.

Truthfully, the types of animals sold by Backwater Reptiles are all critters with pretty hardy dispositions. Most reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates don’t need to eat on a daily basis, so not eating for a day or night while they travel to you is nothing out of the ordinary for them.

hybrid box turtle
Turtles and tortoises fare particularly well during the shipping process. They do travel with their “homes” on their backs anyways!

And rest assured that at Backwater Reptiles we do everything in our power to make sure that the manner in which our animals are packaged and shipped keeps them within the proper temperature and moisture range. But we’ll touch upon that a little later in the article.

The bottom line is that it is very safe to ship snakes, lizards, frogs, spiders, scorpions, and all other types of pets sold by Backwater Reptiles. In fact, ninety-eight percent of orders we send out arrive safe and sound and we’re very proud of those numbers.

How does the entire ordering process work?

Our ordering process is very straight forward and simple. It’s not really that different from ordering anything else online.

You can browse www.backwaterreptiles.com by the type of animal you’re looking for. For instance, we have a section for lizards, snakes, toads, frogs, spiders, etc. Each of these categories is further divided into specific species categories. The lizards section contains species tabs such as geckos, iguanas, and chameleons. The snakes section contains species tabs such as boas, pythons, and corn snakes. We like to make browsing as uncomplicated and easy as possible.

You also have the option to use the Backwater Reptiles website’s search feature. This is useful if you have a specific species name or even a scientific genus and species you’re looking for.

One you’ve located the pet you wish to purchase, simply add it to your cart. Generally, you can also purchase all the needed supplies and accessories for any given type of animal on that specific animal’s “for sale” page. For example, on each chameleon for sale page, you can scroll to the bottom of the page and add a chameleon kit to your order.

What happens if you have a question? What if you have a gender request, size request, or even color request for any given animal?

All you need to do if you have a question of any kind before placing your order is email our hard-working customer service team. They work full-time to ensure that all your questions are addressed. After all, we do want you to be one hundred percent satisfied with your order!

We would like to mention that the main difference between ordering a living creature and ordering any other product online is that we require our carriers to obtain a signature from the recipient of the animal to ensure that it was delivered in a timely, efficient, and secure manner. So check out our shipping schedule when you place your order and make sure that you are ordering for delivery on a day when someone will be present to sign and accept the animal.

antilles pink toe tarantula spiderling
Invertebrates such as this Antilles Pink Toe Tarantula spiderling also fare extremely well during the shipping process.

How do I know that my pet will arrive safe and sound?

While we can’t guarantee with one hundred percent certainty that all will go exactly as planned during the shipping process for every single order placed, at Backwater Reptiles we take every precaution to ensure that each and every animal that we ship out is packaged with care and attention to detail.

When packing a shipment, we take into consideration everything from the external temperature in our location to the temperature of the animal’s final destination. We also make sure that each animal is packed in an appropriately sized container with the correct amount of air circulation.

Furthermore, we clearly and distinctly label each and every box with a stamp that indicates that there is a live animal inside. This helps make sure that the carriers are gentle with the boxes and therefore makes the journey safer for the animals.

All animals that depart from the Backwater Reptile facility are sent out using overnight shipping. This means that the animal is transported quickly and with minimal stress. Although most of the animal we ship don’t mind being in a small space for periods of time, we do like to make sure that they get to their destination as quickly and efficiently as possible. Most will depart our facility in the morning before or around noon and arrive at your doorstep the following morning.

Using overnight shipping not only means that your pet arrives quickly, it means that you receive up to date tracking information that allows you to follow the progress of your pet and make sure that you are home to sign for it. While being able to sign for the animal on the first attempt is ideal, most FedEx and UPS facilities will hold the animal for pick up at your convenience. If you do happen to miss your delivery window for any reason, we do highly recommend retrieving the animal as soon as possible to avoid stress or injury from occurring.

What happens if my pet is unintentionally harmed during transit?

It’s beneficial to all parties involved if the animal arrives at its new forever home safe, sound, and without incident. However, there are unfortunate times when animals will arrive either injured, ill, or dead on arrival (DOA). And while nobody wants to have to deal with the heart ache or hassle of such an occurrence, just know that at Backwater Reptiles, we take good care of our customers and we will do everything to make sure that you have a good experience with us.

contact backwater reptiles
If you ever have any issues with your order, all you have to do is use the contact form on our website or email our customer service team via sales@backwaterreptiles.com.

We also think it’s worthwhile to mention that we have a shipping success rate of ninety-eight percent, which means that only two percent of all orders sent out have any issues. We’re very pleased with this statistic because it means that our animals are treated well, our customers are treated well, and we can rest easy knowing that we do and will continue to do everything within our power to be humane and ethical when delivering our beloved critters to their new forever families.

Because we do offer a live arrival guarantee PLUS an extended seven day warranty on all animals ordered from us, if you do ever happen to have something go wrong with your order, the process of either getting a refund or a replacement animal is very straight forward. All you have to do is email our customer service team and tell them your situation. They are fully equipped and ready to address your concerns and want to make the process go as smoothly as possible.

How will my pet be packaged?

Packing and prepping an animal to be mailed is not as simple as putting a frog in a box. It requires a bit of planning and careful placement and organization. After all, you don’t want your pet bouncing around inside a box or getting too cold, too wet, or too hot.

Most animals sold by Backwater Reptiles are small enough to fit inside small plastic cups with breathing holes. Most hatchling snakes, invertebrates, amphibians, and small lizards fall into this category. However, sometimes reptiles that are too large (i.e. some iguanas, some mature snakes, and other adult animals) will be sealed inside a breathable bag for transportation. No matter what temporary container your new pet is inside of, we make sure that said container is placed comfortably but securely within the shipping box to minimize movement and jerkiness.

Styrofoam inserts are placed on all sides of the box to not only secure the container from moving around, but also to create additional insulation. The styrofoam helps maintain the desired temperature within the box.

Whether or not a heat or cool pack is included inside your new pet’s shipping box depends on several factors – namely, the local temperature at our facility and the temperature at the animal’s final destination.

For instance, because the Backwater Reptiles facility is located in Northern California, our summers can get into triple digit temperatures. This means that even if the animal’s destination is somewhere cold, we can’t include a heat pack to keep the animal warm because it would overheat while in transit from our location. It’s a balancing act taken case by case, and usually we choose to take into account the most extreme temperature situation at either the departure location or the destination and compensate for it.

We will also take temperature into account when poking air holes in the actual shipping box itself. More holes does allow for more air flow, but it also allows the temperature exchange to occur more quickly. So, for instance, if the exterior temperatures are very cold and we’ve packed the animal with a heat pack to compensate, it doesn’t make sense to poke a ton of air holes in the shipping box because it allows all the heat created by the pack to escape. There’s no need to fret though – the boxes themselves aren’t sealed to the point of preventing proper air circulation, so your new pet will not suffocate.

All of our shipping boxes are also properly labeled to help the FedEx and UPS carriers understand that there is a live animal inside. Not only are the boxes labeled as such, but we use a special “LIVE ANIMAL” stamp to add extra security.

All you have to do once your new pet arrives is crack the tape seal on the box, open and remove your critter! Most animals will need anywhere from a day to a week to feel at home in their new enclosure and to begin eating, drinking, and functioning as normal.

Below is a video demonstrating the details of how we package each animal. The video does go over much of the same information that’s listed above, but it’s a useful visual representation for those who prefer watching a video over reading.

Conclusion

We hope that this blog article has helped make you comfortable with the process of ordering a living animal online.

Our goal is to show current, past, and future customers that delivering animals through the mail is safe. Even if something does go wrong in transit, Backwater Reptiles will do everything to make sure our customers are happy by either offering a replacement animal or a refund.

We also have the best live arrival and warranty terms of any online reptile vendor!

If you have any questions or concerns that were left unanswered by this article, feel free to ask them in the comments section.

How to Care for Pet Crocodilians and Pet Monitor Lizards

~ BackwaterReptiles

Most pet reptiles sold by Backwater Reptiles can live comfortably within a tank or enclosure that maxes out around twenty gallons. However, there are some really amazing reptiles that people keep as pets that grow rather large.

While we definitely feel that these large pet reptiles make rewarding pets, it’s very true that they are not necessarily the best animals for beginners to the reptile hobby. For obvious reasons, they are also not good pets for people who have limited space, live in compact city environments, or don’t have the physical capabilities to transport such large animals when they need to leave the house (i.e. take a trip to the vet).

In this article, we will discuss our favorite large pet reptiles. We’ll go into detail about how to care for them, the pros and cons of keeping such large animals, and what is required to keep these amazing reptiles happy and healthy in captivity.

Crocodilians

We want to preface this section about pet crocodilians by making it very clear that we are NOT endorsing alligators, caimans, and other crocodilians as pets for just anyone. These animals can not only be dangerous, they have very specific care requirements in captivity that make them suitable for very special owners who can meet and understand their needs.

So please, if you are interested in owning a pet crocodilian, do your research and be prepared to handle the animal when it attains its full size.

When considering a pet crocodilian, it’s also necessary to be sure that it is actually legal to own this type of animal within your state, city, and county. Check with your local fish and wildlife department and obtain any necessary permits before adopting.

Creating a Crocodilian Enclosure

Of all the large pet reptiles discussed in this article, crocodilians are certainly the most difficult to maintain. They require a large habitat with both land and water elements as well as a specific protein-based diet and warm temperatures. In the long run, they are costly and their enclosures require quite a bit more effort to maintain and keep clean.

Even caimans, which are considered small by crocodilian standards, grow to be around five feet long. They will need an enclosure that is at least several times their body length with both aquatic and land elements. Crocodilians do spend most of their time in the water, but they do need a dry area to emerge to bask.

Despite rumors indicating otherwise, crocodilians do not stop growing to fit the size of their enclosure. So if you’re not prepared, your crocodilian can and will outgrow its home. If you don’t enlarge your pet’s space as it grows, its health and life span can be compromised.

american alligator
Pictured is a baby American alligator. They grow to be quite large pets and require dual wet/dry habitats, so please do your research and make sure you can care for an alligator or other crocodilian species before you adopt.

So, how big should a crocodilian’s home be then? We recommend that the width and length of the cage, tank, or terrarium be at least three to four times the animal’s length, but the larger, the better. Your crocodilian should be able to swim around and walk around comfortably in both portions of the enclosure.

Hatchling and juvenile crocodilians tend to start out small enough to fit comfortably in glass tanks that are readily available at commercial pet stores. But be advised that as your pet outgrows the tank, odds are you will need to have some sort of custom enclosure built to keep your pet at its peak health. You’ll be hard-pressed to find the proper housing for a medium to large-sized croc at any brick and mortar store.

What to Feed Your Crocodilian

In the wild, caimans and alligators are very opportunistic predators who will eat pretty much anything they can get their jaws on. Obviously, the type of prey varies based on the size of the animal. Juveniles tend to consume foods such as insects, fish, and small amphibian and reptiles. Adults eat everything from birds to mammals. They’ll even eat crayfish and mollusks when obtainable.

The most important thing to keep in mind when feeding your pet crocodilian is that they will eat pretty much whatever you feed them, so you’ll need to balance their diet and make sure that your pet is getting all the proper nutrients in the correct doses.

In the wild, crocodilians eat entire animals and are able to therefore ingest all the minerals, vitamins, proteins, and other nutrients that are essential to their health. The best diet for a captive crocodilian is one that replicates what they eat in the wild – entire prey animals. So if your pet is large enough, whole chickens, rodents, and other feeder animals varied at meal times is a great place to start. Juveniles do well on a varied diet of fish and chopped up meat.

Handling Your Crocodilian

Caimans and other crocodilians are generally “look don’t touch” pets. However, there are some owners who actively interact with their croc. It’s generally accepted that the amount of handling will vary from owner to owner and animal to animal depending on temperament.

If you do plan to interact with your crocodilian on a regular basis, we highly recommend starting from a young age to get the animal accustomed to you. This will also make it easier when it comes time to clean your pet’s home.

dwarf caiman
Dwarf caiman are the world’s smallest crocodilian species. Males max out around five feet long.

Please be aware that although you can handle your crocodilian, it is always a risky move. There is ample opportunity to be bitten. We recommend having plenty of experience with these types of animals before owning one as a pet and taking preventative safety measures (i.e. wearing gloves and occasionally taping the animal’s mouth shut if need be) in order to safely move your pet from place to place.

Monitor Lizards 

Although they do grow quite large, there are many species of monitor lizards that can be trained to be friendly family pets. Some Savannahs and Black Throats can be trained to go for walks on leashes, watch television with their owner, and even go on road trips. They can prove to be quite interactive companions with proper husbandry and attention.

Creating a Monitor Enclosure

The best thing to keep in mind when it comes to your pet monitor’s home is that size is extremely important. Bigger is definitely better, even for the juveniles and babies. It’s always a good idea to go with the biggest cage possible.

When your monitor is young, you can likely make due with a large, commercially-produced tank or enclosure purchased from a pet store. However, once your monitor reaches six or more feet long, it’s likely that you’ll have to order a specially built enclosure or, if you’re handy, build a cage on your own.

A large monitor should have an enclosure that is at least eight feet long, three feet wide, and six feet high. Many people construct cages using two-by-fours, wire screen, and plywood to meet these dimensions. But, we’ve even heard of specialty homes for pet monitors where entire walk in closets have been specially modified with screen doors and proper ventilation in order to give the monitor plenty of space and comfort.

No matter what size your monitor is when you purchase it, please do your research and be prepared to handle it when it grows to its full potential.

What to Feed Your Monitor

In the wild, monitors are opportunistic hunters. They will eat virtually anything appetizing that fits in their mouth. The primary diet of each monitor species varies from habitat to habitat, but the most commonly consumed monitor meals are: eggs, birds, small mammals and rodents, crustaceans, fish,  and even other smaller reptiles.

Monitor lizards of all species, sizes, and genders require a balanced diet in order to stay healthy. Nearly all will have ravenous appetites and consume virtually any food you give them, so it is up to you as an owner to be sure you are feeding nutrient rich meals that cover all the bases when it comes to vitamins, minerals, and protein.

So what are acceptable foods for pet monitors?

Juvenile and hatchling monitors are pretty easy to feed. They will readily eat insects such as crickets, roaches, reptiworms, and waxworms. Gut loaded insects are the best option as they are fed nutritionally dense food in order to be as nourishing as possible for your pet.

Pet monitors of all sizes can also be fed commercially produced pellets from the pet store. While these pre-packaged food items are certainly nutritionally dense, we don’t recommend making them your monitor’s only food source. It is always a good idea to vary the food your lizard eats.

Mice and rats are also good in moderation. We highly recommend using frozen rodents that have been thawed as it is safer and more humane for all parties involved in the feeding process. Believe it or not, live rodents can actually put up quite a fight and harm your monitor.

Many other common super market food items can also be fed to your monitor. Raw chicken, fish, shrimp, turkey, and eggs are all acceptable options. The only thing to keep in mind when feeding any type of meat is that  you will need to cut up or chop the meat into acceptably sized pieces. Most monitors gulp their food without chewing, so anything that is too large can cause impaction in the gut and an unwanted trip to the vet.

As with most pet of all kinds, a water dish is a requirement for all monitor species. Not only will your monitor drink water, but a water dish allows for soaking and aids with making sure the environment is humid enough.

Handling Your Monitor

As we’ve already mentioned, pet monitors can be far more interactive than a pet crocodilian. If you handle your monitor regularly from a young age, you can train it to become very docile and accustomed to human interaction.

Monitors are very intelligent as far as reptiles are concerned and they can sense discomfort, fear, and anxiety in their owners, so be sure that you approach your monitor with a calm demeanor and patience.

mangrove monitor
Pictured is a baby mangrove monitor (Varanus indicus). While some monitor species can be tougher to tame than others, most will acclimate to human interaction very well by the time they are fully grown if they are handled and interacted with regularly as hatchlings and juveniles.

Baby monitor lizards can be skittish and fearful, so it is best to handle them on a daily basis in a routine manner so that they learn to associate human interaction with a reward. Offering a treat item before, during, or directly after being picked up, handled, or otherwise played with is a great way to reinforce positivity and teach them that being removed from their enclosure is nothing to be afraid of.

Savannah monitors are particularly known for being “dog-like” in their interactions with their owners. As they mature and grow larger, many enjoy being walked outdoors on a leash and soaking up sunshine. They enjoy bath time, anticipate meal time, and enjoy sitting on their owner’s lap during down time. Many Savannahs will even fall asleep with their owner on the couch – just Google it!

Conclusion

Both monitors and crocodilians are very different as pets. Crocodilians are best as “look don’t touch” animals whereas many species of monitors actually thrive when allowed to bond with their owner.

The one thing that both large reptile species have in common when it comes to a life in captivity is that they both require large, often times specially built enclosures. They are active animals and will need plenty of space to accommodate their size and habits.

Again, although this article is dedicated to keeping these amazing reptiles in captivity, we can’t stress enough that if you are considering getting either a crocodilian or a monitor lizard as a pet that you do your research and be one hundred percent prepared to care for the animal for the duration of its life. This includes being fully prepared for their voracious appetites and extremely fast growth rates.