Do Gila Monsters Make Good Pets?

Do Gila Monsters make good pets?

Although they are fascinating animals as well as quite beautiful to look at, the truth is that Gila Monsters are not good pets. In addition to being venomous, these lizards are also very secretive and do not enjoy human interaction or being kept in a small enclosure in captivity.

Gila Monsters are not common pets and with good reason. They are actually illegal to own in many states, including California and Nevada. However, just because you can’t keep a Gila Monster as a pet doesn’t mean that they aren’t incredible creatures worth learning more about.

Backwater Reptiles is headquartered in Northern California and as such, we have the opportunity to attend the monthly meetings of the Northern California Herpetological Society. This month’s meeting revolved around the Gila Monster and a recent study of the population that exists within a specific region of Arizona.

gila monster
Although they are amazing creatures, gila monsters should not be kept as pets.

What is the Northern California Herpetological Society?

The NCHS is a non-profit organization that revolves around reptiles and amphibians. They promote conservation, education and rehabilitation of herps and are just as enthusiastic about these wonderful animals as we are.

We were actually lucky enough to pick the brain of NCHS’s program director, Darlene Collisson. She was happy to answer our questions and speak about the NCHS and its goals. Continue reading to see what Collisson had to say.

march nchs meeting
One of the animals that was up for adoption at the March meeting of the NCHS was a ten year old bearded dragon.

Backwater Reptiles: This month’s talk is about Gila Monsters. What are your thoughts on keeping them as pets?

Darlene Collisson: I would not recommend Gila Monsters as pets due to the fact that their bites are venomous and that they live mostly in hiding and underground.

BR: Which herps do you feel make the best pets?

Collisson: There are many reptiles that make great pets. It just depends what you like, your level of experience and your willingness to provide the essential care they require. I don’t believe any can be classified as “easy pets” and the best is your own personal liking and your ability to provide the care it requires. I personally am partial to bearded dragons, corn snakes, kingsnakes, crested geckos, gargoyle geckos, and leopard geckos to name a few. I have a wide assortment of close to 100 reptiles in my little zoo.

BR: What do you think people should know about keeping reptiles and amphibians in captivity?

Collisson: Their care takes time and dedication. They are 100% dependent on you to provide the care they need to survive and thrive. They need to be provided with proper husbandry including diet, proper lighting and keeping their enclosure clean. Veterinary care is crucial and regular check ups are very important. Make sure to know of reptile (exotic) vets in your area before you have an emergency situation. Veterinary care can be costly, so it is very important to have money set aside when the need arises.

BR: What do you think of Northern California’s “reptile scene?” Do we have a
lot of breeders, hobbyists and enthusiasts in our area?

Collisson: We have an excellent reptile scene. I have encountered many knowledgeable breeders and enthusiasts in my years of keeping reptiles. We also have some great reptile stores in the area – GX3 Reptiles and Exotics, Reptile Depot and the Serpentarium to name a few.

BR: 

How does NCHS help rehabilitate herps?

Collisson: NCHS has a group of dedicated volunteers who provide foster care for reptiles that have been relinquished to us. These volunteers make sure that the reptiles are seen by a veterinarian ASAP to get a health check up and medical treatment if necessary. Once the reptile is deemed healthy, it is then placed as “available for adoption” on our website and Facebook page.

BR: What should the average person do if they discover a reptile or amphibian
in need?

Collisson: If discovered in the wild, leave them be and contact a local animal control or state agency. If in captivity, they can contact a local veterinary office or contact NCHS through our Facebook page or through “contact us” on our website.

BR: 

Aside from the monthly meetings, what types of events does NCHS
participate in?

Collisson: Our big event of the year is the Sacramento Reptile Show usually held at the end of September. We also provide education & outreach to several local elementary school events along with other local community events. Were also get requests to come to individual schools/classrooms to share our reptile passion and provide “hands on” experience. We also attend adoption events at Petfood Express in Davis.

BR: How can people help out the NCHS?

Collisson: NCHS is a registered 501(c)(3) organization and relies 100% on donations to support our mission and to provide veterinary treatment for the reptiles in our care. We accept monetary donations or reptile/amphibian supplies. You can make a donation payment on our website or if you have an Amazon account you can link your account to Amazon Smile and select Northern California Herpetological Society as your charity of choice. NCHS then will receive a percentage of your purchases. At this time the amount is 0.5%.

BR: Do you have any final thoughts or comments about this month’s meeting, the NCHS or reptiles/amphibians in general that you wish to share?

Collisson: The Northern California Herpetological Society was established in 1982 and is a non-profit organization devoted to providing reptile and amphibian education, informing the public about conservation, and aiding in rescue and rehabilitation of captive species. NCHS is dedicated to providing information and increasing public knowledge about the proper care and husbandry of reptiles and amphibians in captivity. We strive to achieve this goal through our educational monthly meetings and community outreach events. Monthly meetings are free, open to the public, and hosted for those interested in herpetology!

March Meeting of the Northern California Herpetological Society

The NCHS meets on a monthly basis and each meeting typically features a guest speaker. This month’s meeting featured Victoria Farrar, a PhD grad student in the animal behavior program at UC Davis. Farrar participated in a study at the University of Arizona where she was able to monitor local gila monster populations within a state park.

Farrar’s study captured and kept data on gila monsters in order to determine how the local population was doing. The study’s goal was to determine if gene flow within the population was healthy and ultimately determine whether or not the park was beneficial to the lizards.

Farrar’s work had her getting hands on with gila monsters in the wild. She and her team had to capture the lizards and implant microchips for obtaining data on the animals. Farrar underwent rigorous training with the venomous lizards prior to being given permission to handle the animals.

The end result of the gila monster study was a positive one. It was determined that gene flow and population statistics were both healthy. Overall the state park was indeed beneficial and helpful in conserving and protecting gila monster populations.

corn snake adoption
A large but friendly corn snake was also available to adopt at the March meeting of the NCHS.

One on One Interview with Victoria Farrar

Although we do work with many types of exotic reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates on a daily basis at Backwater Reptiles, we don’t have gila monsters on hand at the facility. So you better believe we were very curious about these cool critters. Luckily for us, Victoria Farrar was kind enough to take time to answer our questions in the form of a on on one interview, which you can read below.

Backwater Reptiles: Where did your interest in herpetology come from?

Victoria Farrar: I grew up in Arizona, and I saw a lot of herps, even in my backyard, mainly fence lizards. Reptiles were just always present in my life. Mmy mom had pet turtles, so I’ve always been around them as pets as well. I love the desert and you see a lot of reptiles out there in the desert and I’ve always just thought they were so special and cool. I heard about Dr. Bonine doing the research with the gila monsters and I thought that was way too cool of an opportunity to pass up. I wanted to get in on that. So I just reached out to him and he happened to have an opening.

BR: Did you keep any reptiles as pets or do you keep any now?

Farrar: I don’t have any now, but I did when I had a wildlife permit back when I was working on this project. I did have a Sonoran Desert Toad as a pet, a big fat, Jabba the Hut kind of guy. But unfortunately, he died. But he was really cute and his name was Al, after the toad’s scientific name Bufo alvarius.

BR: Why did you choose to research gila monsters? What was the goal of the whole project?

Farrar: Gila monsters are really charismatic and people care about them. They show up on tourist post cards and stuff like that. So we wanted to see if protecting national park land from development and building would actually protect wildlife. Would it help conserve them? Would it protect their gene flow and their movements and make their lives better? And gila monsters were a really great place to start because we know that they’re threatened, we know that people care about them and we don’t know much about them at all in reality. So we learned about the animals themselves and we also learned about how the park is helping to protect them.

BR: Did the fact that gila monsters are venomous pose any issues for you or your team?

Farrar: We definitely had to get trained properly. There was a long period in which we weren’t allowed to work alone and we really had to learn how to handle them and show our superiors that we knew how to handle them well. But once we did all that, we learned that they’re not that scary. I think that surprises a lot of people. I’d honestly say that the scariest part of the work I did was being out alone off trail in the desert, especially during monsoon season because it can flood. So the lizards themselves were actually not problematic or scary.

BR: Do you think gila monsters make good pets?

Farrar: People should not keep them as pets. They do not make good pets. It’s actually illegal in California and it’s also illegal in Arizona. I don’t know about Utah and Nevada, but I feel strongly that they should not be a pet.

BR: Any final thoughts or comments you wish to share? Specific things you want people to know about the gila monster?

Farrar: They are super cool! They’re one of the only venomous lizards in the world, so they’re really unique from an evolutionary perspective and even from a general diversity perspective. I think they have a lot to teach us, so it’s worth looking more into the secrets of the gila monster.

gila monster lecture
Victoria Farrar gives a short lecture about her study of gila monsters in Arizona at the March meeting of the NCHS. Photo courtesy of NCHS.

Conclusion:

So what did we take away from the March meeting of the Northern California Herpetological Society?

While gila monsters are very beautiful creatures that are worth learning about, they do not make good pets. Not only are they venomous, but they also don’t really like coming out of hiding to interact with people.

Luckily, although more and more of their native habitat is being encroached upon by humans, the gila monster population within the protected state parks of Arizona is doing well. The animals are able to meet each other, mate and maintain gene flow.

We also had the opportunity to learn a bit more about the NCHS and its goals within the community. We are grateful that Northern California has an organization that promotes health and welfare of our favorite critters.

Finally, if you want to help out or learn more about the Northern California Herpetological Society, you can visit their Facebook page or donate through the organization’s website.

What is the Difference Between Leucistic and Albino?

What is the difference between leucistic and albino?

Many people wrongly assume that if they see an all-white version of an animal that it is an albino. However, leucistic animals are also often completely white. Although there are genetic differences that cause each trait, the main visual difference between the two conditions is the color of the eyes of the animal.

leucistic ball python
Pictured is a baby leucistic Ball Python.

What does it mean if an animal is leucistic?

Leucism is a word that describes an animal whose skin, scales, or feathers are white, blotchy, or pale in coloration. This physical characteristic is due to a partial loss of multiple types of pigment which leaves the animal white or pale-looking.

Leucism can affect the entire animal’s body surface or only parts. This means that the animal might have some normal-looking coloration while other parts of it are white or lacking of color. Interestingly enough, there is even a special term for partial leucism. It’s known as “piebald” or “pied.” In the reptile world, this is an especially popular morph in Ball Pythons.

It should be noted that the eyes of leucistic animals appear normal. If you encounter an all white or extremely pale animal with red eyes, it is actually an albino. Read on to learn more about the traits of albinism.

What is albinism?

Although the skin and body of albino animals looks very similar to that of leucistic animals, albinism is genetically very different from leucism. While leucistic animals lack several different types of pigment, albino animals specifically lack melanin.

albino bullfrog
This is an albino bullfrog. It is not completely white, but it is very pale and lacking color. Also take note of its red eyes.

Melanin is a pigment responsible for making skin, hair and the iris of the eye dark. Therefore an animal that is albino and lacks melanin would have no dark tones to its features. This is why albino animals have red eyes unlike their leucistic counterparts.

Because their eyes are red and lacking pigment, many albino animals are sensitive to light. In mammals, this means avoiding sunlight and trying not to get sunburned. In reptiles, this means that they will likely avoid bright lights and hide during the day. This does not mean that they should not be provided with the same UV spectrum lighting that their normal brethren would have.

How can I tell if an animal is leucistic or albino?

First of all, it’s highly unlikely that you will stumble across either kind of animal in the wild. Both genetic mutations don’t particularly benefit reptiles in the wild, therefore encountering them in the wild is rare.

So, odds are that if you find a leucistic or albino reptile in captivity, it will be properly identified for you by a breeder and therefore you won’t have to work too hard to figure it out.

albino hognose snake
This baby Western Hognose Snake is an albino. This can be easily determined by looking at the red color of the snake’s eyes.

But, for the sake of argument, if you did happen to come across a reptile or amphibian that you thought was either leucistic or albino, there is one way that makes it very easy to distinguish between the two. Albino animals have red eyes, whereas leucistic animals do not. So, check the animal’s eyes and you should have your answer – it’s as simple as that.

Conclusion

Leucism and albinism are very similar genetic mutations that cause reptiles and amphibians to appear pale in color or completely devoid of color altogether.

Typically, these mutations are specially bred because reptile and amphibian enthusiasts enjoy the coloration. It’s rare to come across either mutation in the wild.

And lastly, if you are ever trying to determine whether or not you are looking at a leucistic or albino animal, we recommend checking their eyes. Red means that animal is an albino and any other color indicates leucism.

leucistic python
This leucistic Ball Python has blue eyes, distinguishing it from its albino cousins.

 

What is Reptile Brumation?

What is reptile brumation?

In a nutshell, brumation in reptiles is very similar to hibernation in mammals. Because reptiles are ectothermic and rely on external sources to regulate body temperature, when the weather gets too cold for comfort, they go into a state of reduced activity in order to survive.

Although we hope most reptile owners maintain good temperatures for their pets year round, since it is the time of year when the weather is cold outside, this article will discuss brumation in detail.

In this article, we will address the following questions and how they pertain to the husbandry of our cold-blooded friends:

Do reptiles hibernate?
How long does brumation last?
Should I allow my pet to go into a state of brumation?
What should I do if my pet reptile happens to enter into a state of brumation?

reptile brumation
Some species of reptile, such as Box Turtles, are naturally more inclined to brumate.

Do reptiles hibernate?

Scientifically speaking, hibernation and the very specific behaviors that come along with it only occur in mammals. However, a similar physiological process occurs in reptiles when the weather becomes too cold for them to survive normally and they enter into a state of dormancy.

Most of us know that reptiles are ectothermic, AKA cold-blooded, and therefore cannot maintain a constant body temperature without the help of external sources. This is why you see reptiles basking in the sun in the wild or sitting under a heat lamp in captivity. Their body temperature is dependent upon their surroundings and they absorb the heat accordingly.

When brumation occurs, reptiles will find a safe space to hunker down for the duration of the cold spell. This safe space is referred to as a hibernaculum and is usually a burrow, rock crevice, cave, or beneath leaf litter, although some species can brumate under water.

Brumation is a very strange survival tactic built into reptilian brains the world over. Even reptiles in tropical climates where the weather typically never gets too cold can go into states of drastically reduced activity where they slow down, eat less, and stay in hiding more.

Another way to think of brumation is as a state of suspended animation. We’d compare it to entering into hyper sleep like in a science fiction film, although it’s certainly not as extreme as that. But biological processes including feeding and defecating do cease and the reptile would appear to be in a deep sleep should you ever get the chance to witness an animal who is brumating.

How long does brumation last?

Because brumation is a survival tactic, the duration is largely dependent upon the animal’s immediate surroundings and environment. Colder environments for longer durations means a longer period of brumation.

juvenile iguana
Even reptiles that live in tropical climates can enter into a state of decreased activity during the cooler period of the year.

For the most part, reptiles will brumate during the cold season of the year. In the U.S., this means that brumation occurs during the winter, although this “rule” varies from place to place.

We’d say that at its longest, brumation lasts several months, although this is not a strict rule. Again, brumation time will vary based on the reptile’s environment.

turtle brumation
Aquatic turtles that live in outdoor ponds will typically brumate during the winter.

Should I allow my pet to go into a state of brumation?

In captivity, there is truthfully not much reason for a reptile to enter a state of brumation since we monitor the temperature of their enclosures very closely. Technically speaking, because our beloved pets have heat lamps, basking areas and temperature controlled environments within our homes, your pet reptile should have no need to brumate.

There is one reason some owners decide to create conditions suitable for brumation and that is breeding. Although it’s not true for all species, in general, cold weather triggers the production of sperm in males and prepares females for ovulation once the weather warms up in spring. This means that some breeders will induce brumation with the intent of prompting their reptiles to breed. They are mimicking seasonal triggers in hopes of replicating seasons in the wild and ultimately encouraging a period of breeding.

Breeding in reptiles is not an exact science and some maintain that brumation is not necessary at all. Others feel that a slight drop in temperature for a period of time is enough to give reptiles the seasonal cue that it’s time to breed.

True brumation is also risky to the animal if done improperly. In the wild, many reptiles do not awake from brumation. In captivity, although brumation would be very closely monitored, there are still health risks for the animal.

Ultimately, at Backwater Reptiles, we do not induce brumation in order to get our animals to breed. Our temperatures are kept warm and we allow our animals to do what comes naturally to them. Whether or not you wish to induce brumation for any reason is up to each individual owner or breeder.

What should I do if my pet reptile happens to enter a state of brumation?

We’d like to mention that most pet reptiles kept in enclosures with controlled temperature and lighting should not enter into a state of brumation unless their owner changes their set up.

What can happen in most homes is a natural and subtle change in environmental cues that reptiles can sense. Even in cages with regulated heat and light periods, often times reptiles’ metabolisms will slow down during the cold season of the year. They won’t stop eating or eliminating waste entirely, but it’s not uncommon for them to slow down. Owners will likely notice their pet being more sluggish, eating less, and hiding more. This is all normal behavior and is not considered to be brumation.

If you have a species that is more prone to brumate on its own such as a box turtle, you may need to prepare a proper hibernaculum to keep the animal safe and secure. You will need to closely monitor temperature to make sure it doesn’t drop below bearable levels. Your pet won’t be eating, but you will need to make sure the animal stays hydrated.

Conclusion

Although reptiles do not hibernate, they can enter a state of brumation, which is essentially the reptilian version of hibernation. In the wild, it’s a behavior that helps reptiles survive cold spells.

Because reptiles that are kept as pets in captivity have enclosures with closely monitored temperatures and humidity levels, they typically do not brumate. These animals simply do not encounter environmental conditions that trigger them to enter into a state of brumation.

Although it’s still up for debate whether or not the risks outweigh the benefits, some reptile breeders do induce brumation or at least decrease the temperatures in their animals’ environment. It’s ultimately up to individual owners and breeders whether or not they feel brumation is beneficial for their animal.

 

What Are the Best Pet Omnivorous Reptiles?

If you’re wondering what the best omnivorous pet reptiles are, we’ve got answers for you.

In our opinion, the best omnivorous pet reptiles are Blue Tongue Skinks, Green Iguanas, Box Turtles, and Bearded Dragons. In addition to veggies and fruit such as leafy greens, carrots, squash, berries, and bananas, these reptiles commonly consume protein items as well. Typically they eat diets that are a mixture of insects or other meat coupled with plant matter.

Most types of reptiles are primarily either carnivores or vegetarians. But, there are a few species that are omnivores that eat both plants and protein (i.e. meat). Some people prefer one over the other, however we think omnivores are the most versatile. You can go to the store and buy them insect dinners or you can pull your leftover salad greens and other veggies out of the fridge to feed them. In our opinion, this variety and choice of meals makes them ideal pets.

In this article, we’ll discuss the top reptiles that are commonly kept as pets that thrive on omnivorous diets.

Our Top Picks for Best Omnivorous Pet Reptiles

Blue Tongue Skink 

We adore Blue Tongue Skinks at Backwater Reptiles. Their long, think bodies and tiny little arms get to us every time! And they are extremely popular pets to boot. It seems that as quickly as we receive them, they are on their way out the door to their new forever homes.

They are very interactive as well, which is likely a big reason people love them so much. While some can be a bit “hissy,” most are very even-tempered, especially if you get them as a baby.

best omnivorous pet reptiles
Baby Blue Tongue Skinks will eat more protein than adults since they are growing quickly. But all Blueys should be offered vegetables and fruit as well as protein.

There is a bit of debate as to how much protein should be included in a Blue Tongue Skink’s diet. Some owners feel that up to fifty percent should be meat-based products, while others feed their skink primarily a vegetarian diet and supplement with protein once per week or so.

At Backwater Reptiles, we are of the mindset that variety is the most important element in a Blue Tongue’s diet. We feed mostly vegetation and fruit and supplement with vitamins and proteins as needed.

Good sources of protein for Blue Tongue Skinks include: canned super premium cat or dog food, canned insects, mealworms and super worms, hard boiled eggs, cooked lean turkey or beef, and occasionally a thawed pinky mouse. When it comes to giving your lizard anything that comes in a can, we highly recommend reading the label to be sure that there are not any odd seasonings or preservatives that could potentially be harmful to your pet.

When it comes to vegetables, Blue Tongue Skinks are pretty laid back and will typically eat whatever you give them. Good choices include: leafy greens such as collard, kale, and mustard greens, squash, carrots, dandelions, brussel sprouts and peas.

Because fruit is so high in water and natural sugars, it should be fed sparingly. We recommend no more than fifteen percent of your skink’s diet  consist of fruit. Good types of fruit to offer your skink as a treat include: mango, raspberries, strawberries, papaya, cantaloupe, and blueberries.

There are a few menu items that we advise steering clear of. Make sure that if you use canned pet food of any kind that there is no added sodium. No citrus fruits (orange, grapefruit, lemon, lime, etc) and avocados are also big no-nos. Iceberg lettuce is also not recommended as it holds little to no nutritional value.

A final word of advice when it comes to Blue Tongue Skink diet – make sure it’s varied so that your skink gets as many different vitamins and minerals as possible. Babies will require more protein to grow than their adult counterparts, so you should also be feeding babies a higher percentage of protein.

Green Iguana

The great thing about Green Iguanas is that they are extremely flexible when it comes to diet. They’ll gladly eat everything from commercially prepared iguana chow to fresh veggies purchased at the supermarket. This means their nutritional requirements are very easily met and they’re also fun at mealtime.

One thing we constantly recommend to iguana owners when it comes to diet is variety. The more varied your iguana’s diet is, the more likely he or she is to be adequately supplied with the appropriate nutrients, vitamins, and minerals.

In addition to pre-made iguana food from the pet store, we recommend feeding your iguana mostly vegetables with a small amount of fruit for treats. Protein should be given, but sparingly. In the wild, iguanas are opportunists and will eat animals that are smaller than them that fit in their mouth, however the majority of their diet is still plant-based. So while most pet iggies will gladly eat things such as cooked chicken, canned pet food, and even thawed rodents, we don’t recommend making protein the majority of their calories as it can cause kidney issues and eventually, renal failure.

blue iguana baby
Although we discussed Green Iguanas, this Axanthic Blue Iguana is the same species but with a different coloration. They have the same dietary requirements and care requirements.

Vegetables that are good for iguanas to eat include: collard greens, turnip and dandelion greens, squash, green beans, and kale. There are many other options that are equally nutritious as well. A word of advice – steer clear of iceberg lettuce! Not only is mostly water, it contains very little value nutritionally and will likely leave your iguana feeling hungry and malnourished.

Too much fruit in a Green Iguana’s diet can cause diarrhea, so only about ten percent of what goes into your iguana’s tummy should be fruit. Fruit should be viewed as a treat.

While most fruit is acceptable to feed your iguana, ones that are commonly chosen include: strawberries, blueberries, mango, banana, and small pieces of apple. It’s best to avoid citrus fruits.

Now that you have an idea of the iguana’s diet, we do want to mention that as common as Green Iguanas are as pets, we advise that any potential owner do research and prepare to care for the animal for its entire lifespan of 15 to 20 years. Keep in mind that baby iguanas are a very manageable size, but they grow fast! Mature iggies can be four to five feet long and will therefore need a very large enclosure to thrive. Please make sure that you are willing and able to accommodate the animal’s needs as an adult prior to purchasing it as a baby.

Box Turtles

Box Turtle babies and adults have different dietary needs. Babies will need a lot more protein in order to grow up strong and healthy, whereas adults require only about forty percent meat in their diet. Keep in mind that this ratio varies between Box Turtle species and is not a hard and fast rule. It’s more of a guideline that can be altered based on the specific needs of your particular turtle.

Baby Box Turtles eat protein in the form of insects such as small crickets, roaches, and various worms. The protein in the diet of an adult Box Turtle is much the same, although the size of the insects will be larger. They sometimes also eat canned dog or cat food provided that it has no added sodium or preservatives. We recommend inspecting the label carefully prior to offering any kind of commercial pet food not specifically designed for turtles.

Appropriate veggies for Box Turtles include dark leafy greens, carrots, squash, green beans, and cactus pads. Fruit such as berries and other soft, manageable fruit is also a nice treat, but make sure to give it in moderation to avoid inadvertently giving your turtle loose stool. Again, avoid iceberg lettuce since it’s not nutritious.

There are also many types of pre-made, commercial turtle foods and pellets on the market. These are typically easily purchased from any pet store and can be used in addition to a varied, fresh diet of both protein and veggies.

Although Box Turtles are relatively low maintenance and make great pets for children and families, we do want to make sure that potential owners are aware that they need full-spectrum UV lighting, which means UVB light is necessary. We also recommend regular vitamin dusting of their food to allow for proper utilization of the vitamins and to make sure that their shells, nails, and limbs are able to stay healthy.

Bearded Dragons

Bearded Dragons are hands down one of the most popular pet reptiles out there. While we believe this is mainly because they have such stellar personalities and are pretty simple to care for, it’s likely also due to the fact that they have an omnivorous diet.

Like all the other omnivorous reptiles on this list, Beardies commonly consume insects such as crickets, Dubia roaches, and meal worms on a regular basis. They are most definitely not known to be picky eaters and if it squirms, they’ll likely try to eat it!

While Beardies do eat vegetation, we’ve found that it’s more common that they want to fill up on protein and eat veggies secondarily. Sounds like how a lot of children tend to eat!

baby bearded dragons
Baby Bearded Dragons are pretty much always hungry and will eat many different types of insects and veggies.

At Backwater Reptiles, we chop up dark leafy greens, squash, grapes, green beans and other nutritionally dense veggies into small pieces and leave them in a dish in the Beardie’s enclosure on a daily basis. Any uneaten veggies are removed that evening or the following morning.

Because Bearded Dragons can get overweight if you allow them, we monitor them closely when we feed them insects. Usually, we toss a few insects into the cage at a time and allow the Beardie to catch and eat them for a period of about fifteen minutes each day. We also dust the insects with vitamins prior to putting them in the cage.

When it comes to Bearded Dragon health, we would like to mention that if you do line your Beardie’s cage with sand as a substrate that you should probably feed them in a different location. This is because scurrying insects that are being snatched up off of sand could easily bring sand along with them into the Bearded Dragon’s digestive system. If your Beardie eats enough sand over any given period of time, it could become impacted and require a trip to the vet.

Conclusion

Diet is a huge factor to take into consideration when choosing a pet reptile. If you choose a carnivore, insects or rodents will need to purchased on a regular basis and if you choose an herbivore, veggies and fruit will need to be readily available in your refrigerator. Omnivores, such as the ones discussed in this article, are great because they allow for feeding versatility.

Ultimately, the choice of whether or not to own an omnivorous reptile is up to you, but we think that these particular omnivores have a lot to offer and would recommend them as pets for herp enthusiasts experienced and new to the hobby.

Captive Bred or Wild Caught? Which is Better?

Reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates that are kept as pets or display animals are actually not considered domestic animals. Cats and dogs have been bred for generations to select for specific traits that make them more appealing as companion animals to human beings, but the same is most certainly not true for our scaley friends.

Did you know that many species of reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate are actually caught in their native homes and then brought into captivity to be our pets? While this is most certainly  not the case for all exotic pets, it is a truth that not everyone is aware of.

In this article, we will discuss wild caught versus captive bred animals and what that ultimately means for us as pet owners.

captive bred baby bearded dragons
Many species such as Bearded Dragons, Corn Snakes, and Leopard Geckos breed easily in captivity.

Which Should I Choose? A Captive Bred Animal or a Wild Caught One?

Benefits of Captive Breeding

Many people prefer captive bred reptiles because they tend to have cleaner bills of health overall. Because they were born into sanitary conditions with parents who were likely well cared for, the babies are usually very sturdy and hardy. Their parents were fed well, their enclosures were cleaned regularly, and they were also free of parasites encountered in the wild. This means that these benefits will be passed on to the offspring.

It’s also true that babies who are used to captive conditions will continue to thrive in them. It’s much easier to train a baby snake that was born in captivity to accept frozen/thawed mice than to capture a snake from the wild and teach it to accept non-living prey. In other words, captive bred babies are typically proven, non-picky feeders.

Another benefit to adopting a captive bred animal is that it is likely to be more tame. Although we’ve already mentioned that reptiles and exotic pets in general are not considered domestic and therefore can’t be labelled as truly “tame,” they can most certainly be more accustomed to people, being handled, and the every day normal operations that come with being someone’s pet. In other words, we’ve found that captive bred animals are usually more docile and have better temperaments than their wild caught counter parts.

Captive breeding programs also allow for an immense variety of markings and colorations within a single species. This is why the number of morphs of Leopard Geckos and Corn Snakes is seemingly endless, although there are certainly quite a few other species with just as many morphs and morph combination possibilities. While this might seem superficial, many reptile collectors and hobbyists enjoy the color and pattern diversity.

Finally, many owners choose captive bred animals  because they can raise their pet from infancy. This enables them to know their pet’s age more accurately and also to enjoy the animal for the duration of its entire life. With wild caught animals, this is simply not possible since most are captured as juveniles or adults.

gravid chameleon
Panther Chameleons reproduce well in captivity. Pictured is a gravid female. They turn a pronounced peach or orange color once they are carrying eggs.

Downsides of Captive Breeding

One possible downside of captive breeding is the potential for the animals to be “mass produced,” so to speak. We’ve never personally witnessed this on a first hand basis (thankfully!), but since it does happen with designer dogs and cats, there is a chance that it could happen with our scaley friends as well.

We hope that all breeders who have success treat their animals with respect and dignity and not simply as a business venture. They are living creatures after all.

Sadly, with any breeding project, there is also a risk of inbreeding and birth defects. Again, this is rare occurrence and it would take several generations for the effects to show, but it could happen.

The best way to avoid these two potential pitfalls is simply to research where your pet is coming from. We recommend buying from a reputable breeder who has plenty of experience or else viewing the animal in person prior to purchasing.

albino hognose snake baby
Captive breeding efforts allow for different morphs within a single species. Pictured is an albino Western Hognose Snake.

Benefits of Keeping Wild Caught Animals

Although it might seem unethical to some to capture animals from the wild, the truth is that many of the less common species that are available to keep as pets are not always available through captive breeding programs. What this means is that if someone wants a rare species of reptile or amphibian, it will likely only be available as wild caught and will probably come with a higher price point as well.

You might be wondering, well, why can’t some species be captive bred? Sometimes the species has very specific requirements for breeding and reproducing that only the most elaborate habitats can replicate. Other times, we might not have enough information on a given species’ reproductive habits in order to successfully breed them in captivity on a larger scale.

Another benefit to keeping wild caught animals is that it allows breeders to focus on conservation efforts. For instance, Parson’s Chameleons are a highly regulated species to import into the U.S. However, Backwater Reptiles actually had several clutches of both baby Yellow-Lipped and Orange-Eye Parson’s Chameleons born in captivity in the last two years and we were able to avoid importing wild-caught animals with potential health issues such as malnourishment or internal parasites.

baby yellow lip parsons chameleon
Pictured is one of the captive bred baby Yellow Lipped Parson’s Chameleons that was born at the Backwater Reptiles facility.

Downsides of Keeping Wild Caught Animals

Probably the most obvious downside to keeping a wild caught reptile as a pet is the possibility that the animal might not be as healthy as a captive bred one. Rarer species that are typically wild caught can have internal parasites and other bacterially-borne illnesses. While these can be treated with Panacure or antibiotics, it often requires a quarantine period and special precautions must be taken in order to ensure that the animal does not spread illness to any other animals an owner might have in their home. Let’s face it – most herp owners don’t have just one pet reptile!

Another side effect of the wild caught pet trade is the possibility that it could unintentionally promote the capture of species that are strictly regulated for import or capture. While Backwater Reptiles steers clear of illegally captured animals, there are reports in the news of animals being confiscated at airports and even being stolen from nature preserves simply to be sold on the black market. This is obviously not an issue with captive bred animals.

Finally, many herp owners prefer captive bred pets over wild caught ones because they know the exact age and health conditions of their animal. This is just not possible if an animal has been wild caught. While this might not seem significant at first glance, for owners who want to keep their pet for the full duration of its life (from hatchling to mature adult), it can make all the difference.

captive bred crested gecko
Crested Geckos like the one pictured are another species that are readily able to reproduce in captivity.

What Did We Learn?

Ultimately, it is all a matter of personal judgment whether you are most comfortable purchasing a captive bred or wild caught pet.

We understand that certain species such as Ball Pythons, Leopard Geckos, Corn Snakes, and Bearded Dragons breed readily in captivity and are hardly ever sold as wild-caught animals anymore. On the other hand, many experienced herp enthusiasts are after more exotic species that don’t reproduce as readily in captivity. Therefore, a wild caught specimen is likely the only option and therefore the best one.

We aren’t intending to make the choice for you — we simply want to present you with the pros and cons of each option and allow you to make the decision that suits your needs best.