Lizards

Is My Reptile’s Poop Normal?

~ BackwaterReptiles

Do reptiles pee? Is my reptile’s poop and waste normal? Buckle up – you’re about to read an entire article devoted to reptile waste elimination!

If you’re new to herpetology, you might be wondering what normal waste looks like. Should it be white? Solid or liquid? How often should you be cleaning it up? The truth is that poop consistency and frequency will vary depending upon the species, but there are some general guidelines to normal-looking waste and things to watch out for that might indicate a problem with your pet’s health.

Do reptiles pee?

Reptiles “drink” water differently than mammals do. Of course, they can drink it directly through their mouth, but did you know that many species can actually benefit from soaks or baths to keep them hydrated as well? They can also derive moisture through food they eat.

Why do we bring this up you ask? Well, because reptiles don’t typically drink water in the same manner as mammals, they also don’t urinate separately the way that mammals are accustomed to doing.

The short answer is that yes, reptiles do pee. However, in healthy reptiles, their pee is always accompanied by solid waste. They do not pee and poop separately.

snake poop

What should my pet reptile’s poop look like?

Have you ever seen bird poop on a car, statue or sidewalk? It’s usually white and liquidy with some brown or black solid elements to it. Reptile waste is very similar to bird poop in this manner. The white and liquid parts are comparable to urine and of course, the solid part is the poop. So, reptiles poop and pee simultaneously for the most part.

When examining your reptile’s waste, you should notice three components. There should be a clear or yellowish liquid urine, a semi-solid white or opaque urate and a solid, brown or black poop.

It should be noted that depending upon your pet’s substrate, you may or may not notice the liquid element of the waste. Many substrates are fairly absorbent and therefore you may only notice white and black/brown stool.

How frequently should my pet reptile go to the bathroom?

Lizards will evacuate more frequently than snakes. Because snake metabolisms are pretty slow, they really only need to eat a meal once a week or so. Therefore, they poop less frequently since they eat less frequently.

Lizards with big appetites, such as bearded dragons, should be eliminating at least once per week, if not a bit more frequently. Fun fact: bearded dragons are notorious for pooping in their water dishes…particularly right after their owner changes the water!

In general, it’s also good to know that babies eliminate more frequently than adults.

There is no set schedule for when or how often your reptile should eliminate. The main thing you want to consider is what is normal for your pet. Your pet is likely healthy and fine unless you notice that it suddenly isn’t pooping and/or eating in its normal manner.

bearded dragon poop

What if my pet reptile isn’t pooping?

If your reptile appears constipated, it could be a tell tale sign of dehydration. The solution? Lots of water of course.

You can start in the obvious place by making sure your pet has a bowl filled with fresh drinking water every day. You should also mist or spray water inside the enclosure so that your reptile can drink water off of leaves and other cage furniture.

Another really great option is to soak or bathe your reptile for 10-15 minutes in room temperature water daily until it poops. The baths will not only help hydrate your pet, they can also stimulate the digestive system. Many reptiles will poop in their water source or during baths. Actually, we’ve found that bathing can be an effective way to help keep your pet’s enclosure cleaner. It’s almost akin to toilet training!

Impaction could be another possible reason why your reptile isn’t using the bathroom. This is when your pet has accidentally ingested something that blocks its digestive tract, typically substrate. For this reason, we do often advise that owners feed their pets outside of their usual enclosure.

Finally, if you still can’t get your pet to poop after lots of baths, you can try administering a natural laxative. For reptiles, this could mean anything from a few drops of olive oil, some juice/water mixture with no added sugar, or even pureed squash. There are lots of options that are easy on the digestive system and natural too.

How do I clean up reptile waste?

Most reptile owners choose to spot clean their pet’s enclosure as needed. You can scoop out dirty substrate and change out water dishes as needed.

We recommend wearing gloves to handle reptile waste. Depending upon the type of substrate your pet has, you can buy special poop scoopers to accommodate and make clean up easy.

Eventually, you will need to clean your pet’s entire enclosure. That is an entirely different blog article topic though! But just know that it’s always a good idea to clean at least monthly to combat bacteria and keep your pet reptile in peak health.

Arboreal reptiles such as chameleons will tend to poop on the plants and perches within their enclosure. This can make spot cleaning a pain in the rear end, but it is still necessary to keep your animal healthy.

We’d also like to note that this article discusses terrestrial reptile elimination. Aquatic turtle poop is a completely different topic, mainly because the clean up process is much different due to water filters, pH levels and aquatic environments.

chameleon poop

Conclusion

While it might seem like a strange thing to pay close attention to your herp’s stool, in truth, it’s a very good indicator of your pet’s health. We recommend noting how often your pet uses the bathroom and checking to make sure that whatever waste you do clean up appears normal according to the guidelines in the article above.

If you notice anything strange or your reptile’s pooping habits are suddenly different, it could be a sign that there is a problem. You might need to adjust temperatures, humidity levels, feeding habits or all of the above.

Have reptile poop questions? Ask us in the comments! You can also email our knowledgable customer service team at sales@backwaterreptiles.com. We’re happy to help.

The Top 5 Most Unique Pet Reptiles and Amphibians

~ BackwaterReptiles

What are the most unique pet reptiles and amphibians?

Reptiles and amphibians are considered somewhat unconventional pets on their own. But because there are so many different species to choose from, we wanted to take the time to outline our top five most unique species. In our estimation, Budgett’s Frogs, Red-Eye Crocodile Skinks, Western Hognose Snakes, Sirens, and Surinam Toads are the most unique reptiles and amphibians that are commonly kept as pets.

What makes Budgett’s Frogs (Lepidobatrachus laevis) unique?

Budgett’s frogs take the cake when it comes to uniqueness. They have an unmistakable appearance plus they certainly know how to speak their mind, which is quite an interesting talent for a frog to possess.

When you first see a Budgett’s frog, we wouldn’t be surprised if you thought the frog was rather blob-like. They are primarily aquatic and their body shape and design reflects this. They have small but very protruding eyes, super long fingers and also tend to be quite flat when not fully submerged. The overall effect is quite comical.

In addition to their funny appearance, Budgett’s frogs can have attitude. If you upset or stress a Budgett’s frog, they will certainly let you know. They rear up on their hind legs and inflate as large as they can. They open their mouths wide and emit a loud scream to make them seem far more threatening than they truly are. While we don’t recommend annoying your frog enough to make it display this behavior, if it ever happens, it truly is a sight to behold.

Backwater Reptiles sells healthy, captive bred Budgett’s frogs with Frog Ranch genetics. You can learn more here.

What makes Red-Eye Crocodile Skinks (Tribolonotus gracilis) unique?

In general, we find skinks to be quirky and original lizards. They tend to be long and slinky with shorter arms which means their locomotion is fun to watch. But, in our estimation, the most unique skink is the Red-Eye Crocodile Skink.

Red-Eye Croc Skinks look like little dragons and this is initially what attracts so many owners to this adorable lizard. Their scale formation coupled with their boldly orange or red rimmed eyes is reminiscent of the mythical creature that so many of us envision in our imaginations.

Similar to opossums, Red-Eye Croc Skinks will play dead if they feel overly stressed or threatened. They simply become unresponsive and it can be quite scary and shocking to experience as an owner if you have never witnessed it before. Luckily, once your skink has had time to calm down and feels secure once more, it will spring back to life magically and its normal patterns of behavior will resume.

You can purchase your own Red-Eye Crocodile Skink here.

What makes Western Hognose Snakes (Heterodon nasicus) unique?

We are huge fans of the variety of morphs of Hognose Snakes that you can find these days. They range in coloration and pattern and are quite beautiful to behold. However, our favorite physical trait of this unique snake species has got to be its adorable little turned-up nose! This trait is what this snake is known for and we feel that it is very aptly named.

Another little known fact about Western Hognose Snakes is that they are rear-fanged venomous. There is heated debate amongst herp keepers and enthusiasts as to whether or not this species should actually be considered venomous. Truthfully, their venom or modified saliva, depending upon who you talk to, is only dangerous to their prey.

Because hognose snakes are rear-fanged, they don’t have a typical venom delivery system like rattlesnakes, cobras or other well-known venomous snakes do. A hognose would have to bite you and chew or gnaw in order for their saliva to get into the wound and cause any type of reaction in a human. Because these snakes would rather play dead than gnaw on a human, we’ll head right on into our next point about why we think Western Hognose Snakes are so unique.

In simple terms, hognose snakes have developed a playing dead behavior in order to get potential predators to leave them alone. When a hognose feels threatened, it will roll over and display its belly scales, open its mouth wide and let its tongue loll out of its mouth. They even go so far as to emit a stinky smell that mimics death and rotting. What a unique and fascinating trick!

You can purchase your own Western Hognose Snake from Backwater Reptiles by clicking here.

What makes Sirens unique?

We didn’t specify a species when discussing sirens simply because they are all similar and they all possess very similar unique traits as well.

In case you are unfamiliar with sirens, it’s helpful to know that they are salamanders that possess neotenic traits. In other words, they possess larval traits of salamanders, namely gill tufts that remain with them throughout their entire life, not just their larval stage.

So although sirens are amphibians and should technically undergo a two-stage life cycle, they do remain fully aquatic their entire life. They grow quite large and ultimately do resemble the salamanders that so many of us know and love, but they don’t really emerge from the water.

While there are several species and varieties of siren that can be kept as pets, Backwater Reptiles sells Lesser Sirens. While sirens are cool and unique pets, we do only recommend them for experienced herp owners. Their aquatic lifestyle and habitat requirements coupled with their large size at maturity can make them a challenge to successfully keep in captivity.

What makes Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) unique?

Surinam Toads are so ugly you can’t help but think they are cute! Not only do they have flat bodies, they also have triangular-shaped heads. Their beady little black eyes also contribute to their bizarre physical appearance.

Probably the most unique characteristic of this species is the manner in which they reproduce. Males produce a strange underwater clicking noise and a female then releases eggs into the water. The male proceeds to fertilize the eggs and push them onto the female’s back where they stick to her skin. Eventually, the skin grows up around the eggs forming a network of pockets or pouches of protection. When the toadlets are ready to emerge, they stick their snouts out of her back skin which makes for quite a strange view.

In part due to their nontraditional body shape and lifestyle, this amphibian is primarily aquatic. Once again, we do only advise that experienced herp keepers invest in Surinam toads as they do have specific care requirements.

Conclusion

There are many wonderful kinds of reptiles and amphibians out there that we feel make excellent pets for different kinds of people. If you are interested in a species that is unique for one reason or another, we hope you found our list helpful!

If you are in the market for a reptile, amphibian or invertebrate with particular characteristics that we did not discuss in this article, please feel free to reach out to our talented customer service team. They would be happy to make recommendations and can be reached by emailing sales@backwaterreptiles.com.

Common Reptile Husbandry Mistakes

~ BackwaterReptiles

What mistakes do people commonly make when it comes to reptile husbandry?

Reptiles are considered exotic pets and as such they do have specific and special care requirements. Although most pet owners do want to take the best care possible of their reptile, there are many common mistakes that are made when trying to do so. This article will touch upon the most common mistakes we see at Backwater Reptiles and what you should be doing instead.

common reptile husbandry mistakes

Temperature and Humidity

Did you know that temperature and humidity are one of the toughest environmental factors to get right when it comes to captive conditions? Different reptile species originate from different environments and therefore have varying preferences when it comes to ideal temperature and humidity.

Keep one thing in mind when adjusting temperature and humidity levels – search engines are your friend! If you are unsure what a good range is for your particular pet, we advise that you do a simple search. There are many breeders, pet stores and hobbyists with websites and articles to help you find out what your pet needs.

It’s also relatively easy to know if your reptile needs adjustments made. Reptiles who don’t have enough humidity in their environment will have issues shedding. For instance, snakes will not shed in a complete tube or will retain their eye caps. Lizards will seem to be in a constant state of shed. There are other warning signs as well including dullness or lack of color.

Utilize misters, thermometers and heat elements such as lamps in order to create the proper equilibrium for your particular animal.

Handling and Human Interaction

Pet reptiles are not domesticated. We repeat – pet reptiles ARE NOT domesticated animals.

This means that many of them do not enjoy being removed from their enclosure to be “played with.” It will only stress them out unnecessarily. There are quite a few species of reptile that do just fine interacting with people including: bearded dragons, ball pythons, most tortoises, leopard geckos, corn snakes, savannah monitors and crested geckos. However, there are many species that people acquire that we personally feel are best left as ornamental pets.

While it is true that many reptiles can be worked with to become accustomed to people, we do advise that you read your pet’s body language closely before you handle it constantly. Bottom line: Not all reptiles like being petted, held or touched.

use discretion when handling reptiles

Diet and Providing Supplements

Truthfully, most pet reptiles require supplements in order to stay at peak health in captivity. The only exception to this is snakes which receive total nutrition from their prey.

Most people might not even be aware that reptiles need vitamins. Calcium and vitamin D are extremely important, particularly when it comes to bone health and growth. We advise that you dust your feeder insects accordingly with an appropriate supplement depending on whether your pet is indoor or outdoor.

You should also keep in mind dietary requirements when preparing your reptile’s meals. For instance, most reptiles commonly kept as pets are insectivores, but some are vegetarians and some are omnivores and need a mixture of vegetation and animal protein in their diet. Don’t make the mistake of giving too much protein to an omnivore – this can be disastrous on their liver.

We also advise that you mix up the type of insects you feed your pet. Crickets and roaches are great staples, but there are advantages to other feeder insects. Depending upon the species, sometimes rodents or eggs are a good addition as well. Variety is key and all too often we see people trying to feed their reptile the same food over and over to the point where the animal wants something else and goes on a hunger strike.

Miner-All by Sticky Tongue Farms is by far the best calcium/D3 supplement in our experience. It’s preferred by top breeders and zoos around the world.

UV Lighting Requirements

Did you know that some reptiles absolutely require full-spectrum UV lighting in order to be healthy? Other species do not necessarily require it.

Over the years, we’ve learned that many people make the mistake of not providing proper UV rays. This can result in metabolic bone disease among other health issues.

In order to avoid making this mistake, we always suggest that you research the pet you want before you purchase. Take note of whether or not it needs UV rays, heat lamps or both.

In general, most lizards, tortoises and turtles require full-spectrum lighting. There are of course exceptions and this is where knowledge and research come into play.

Most snakes don’t require UV lighting, but this is not a hard and fast rule. For instance, some people choose to provide UV lighting for corn snakes, but other breeders swear it’s not necessary. If there is debate as to whether or not your particular pet should have UV lighting, our recommendation is to provide it for the sake of safety. In other words, better to be safe than sorry when it comes to this common mistake.

The Correct Type of Enclosure

Another very common mistake we often see is people buying the wrong kind of tank, vivarium or enclosure for their reptile. Size, orientation, and lifestyle are all elements that need to be taken into consideration when choosing an enclosure.

For example, chameleons require a very specific type of cage that allows for air flow and ventilation while maintaining adequate humidity and moisture levels. This is why we always recommend mesh enclosures for chameleons of all species, excluding pygmy chameleons.

Another factor that owners often fail to take into account is the lifestyle of their pet. For example, you wouldn’t want to provide an aquatic or even semi-aquatic environment for a desert lizard such as a uromastyx. Furthermore, animals with arboreal lifestyles need climbing room and accessories, so their cages need to be vertically oriented. It’s a very common mistake to think in terms of human comforts and give an arboreal animal a cage with lots of floor space but little upward mobility room.

Substrate is also a very important housing element that many people get incorrect. We’ll chalk this mistake up to the seemingly endless options for substrate and the debate amongst owners as to what works best for their animals in their own homes. Keep in mind that most substrates are recommended, leaving lots of room for error.

One substrate mistake we see over and over is ingestion by the animal. If your substrate is too small or you are feeding your pet within its enclosure, there is always the opportunity for accidental ingestion. Over time, this can cause health problems such as impaction.

Ultimately, when it comes to substrate, we recommend simple, easy to clean and practical options. Choose something that will allow your pet to perform its natural activities (i.e. burrowing) but also make sure that it won’t get in the way.

Finally, some owners make the mistake of over decorating their reptile’s enclosure. In truth, barer is better when it comes to reptile husbandry. Unless you are dedicating an entire room or creating a special bioenclosure with lots of bells and whistles, most reptiles need the bare minimum to stay happy and healthy.

For example, since your reptile’s enclosure should have a hot, basking side and a cooler, ambient temp side, we do advise that you provide two hide spots. If your reptile is arboreal, some items to climb on are necessary. A water dish is another cage furniture item that is necessary for most reptiles too. But other than these mentioned items, cage decor and furniture should be minimal, lightweight and easy to clean. This is for the safety of the animal. Too much decor could crush your pet or injure it accidentally.

reptile cage decor

Cleanliness

It might seem like common sense, but reptile homes need cleaning just like human homes.

While it’s not a necessity to clean water spots off of glass tanks, it is necessary to remove fecal matter and shed skin. You wouldn’t want to live in your own waste, so why would your pet?

It’s a very common mistake to think that reptile cages don’t need cleaning simply because reptiles are typically low maintenance pets. You don’t need to scrub and disinfect your pet’s cage every week, but spot cleaning is essential and full tank cleaning should be done as needed.

specialty cages for baby chameleons

Conclusion

Now that we’ve outlined and discussed some of the biggest mistakes we see new reptile owners make, we hope it might help you avoid making the same errors.

Luckily, if something does need to be corrected, your reptile’s behavior will typically let you know. And most of these common husbandry mistakes are very simple to rectify if you catch them in a reasonable amount of time.

What is the Proper Temperature and Humidity for your Reptile?

~ BackwaterReptiles

What temperature should your pet reptile’s cage be? How much humidity should their enclosure contain?

Two key elements of proper herp husbandry involve maintaining appropriate temperatures and humidity levels. These levels obviously vary widely between species, so in this article we will discuss how to know what the proper levels for your pet should be and how to make changes to these variables if necessary.

proper temperature and humidity levels
Pictured are custom cages made for baby Parson’s Chameleons. Chameleons are advanced when it comes to temperature and humidity requirements. We typically do not recommend them to beginners.

How do I know what the proper temperature for my reptile is?

We’re going to answer this question simply by saying that the right temperature is different for every species. The correct temperature range for a Kenyan Sand Boa is most likely not going to be the exact same for a Red Eye Tree Frog.

The most important thing to know here is that you must look up what temperature range your pet will be most comfortable with and go from there. Research, research, research! The good news is that there are a lot of specific and detailed care sheets available online for most species.

How do I know what the proper humidity range for my reptile is?

Again, humidity levels are going to be variable from species to species. As much as we’d love to provide a set of data that is universal for all herps, this just isn’t the case. Please do research on how moist your pet’s environment should be and make sure you can provide that before you adopt.

Keep in mind that desert animals such as bearded dragons, leopard geckos and many species of tortoise are not going to require too much humidity. Amphibians and other species that thrive in tropical environments – i.e. frogs, salamanders, many species of jungle snakes and chameleons – are going to require habitats with higher humidity levels and much more moisture in their immediate surroundings.

jungle snake species
Snakes species such as this Borneo Blood Python will require more humidity in their environment than desert species.

How do I control temperature and humidity levels within my reptile’s enclosure?

You will need two main tools to measure temperature and humidity.

We recommend that you invest in a thermometer that provides accurate readings. The bare minimum you should use is a temperature gauge that sticks to the wall of the enclosure, although for more complicated set ups, we advise investing in something more accurate.

There are many types of digital thermometers that work great for measuring the temperature within a tank. Some simply provide a reading while others are portable and can use a probe to measure various areas within the enclosure. Another great option is to get a temperature gun. These are not necessarily labelled as thermometers, but they are as simple as point and shoot to obtain a temperature reading anywhere you wish. 

Personally, when it comes to obtaining temperature information, we always like to recommend something portable because it allows for multiple measurements within the same enclosure at different points of interest. For instance, you don’t want a uniform temperature throughout the entire enclosure. You should always have a hotter side with the basking lamps and a cooler side to allow your pet to properly thermoregulate. A portable thermometer allows you to measure each side of the enclosure separately.

Your second absolutely necessary tool is a hygrometer. These are used to measure moisture and humidity levels. If you so choose, you can even invest in a thermometer/hygrometer combo tool. These are actually fairly common since herpetology has become more of a mainstream hobby.

Once you have tools that will provide you with data on your herp’s home, then you can make adjustments accordingly. As temperatures outside and within your home fluctuate, you might have to make adjustments to your reptile’s enclosure as well. Sometimes this can mean misting the enclosure more or less frequently, buying a more powerful heat bulb, or investing in an alternate source of heat such as a heat pad for underneath the tank.

Ultimately, you will get used to adjusting temperature and humidity the longer you own and care for your pet. It will be bit more challenging at first, but once you have a system down, it will not require much maintenance at all.

amphibian humidity levels
Amphibians like this Mole Salamander will require a lot of moisture and humidity in their environment.

What are the signs that I might need to make adjustments to the temperature and/or humidity levels within my reptile’s cage?

One of the first indicators that something is not right with your pet’s environment is a lack of appetite. For instance, if you notice that your pet is suddenly sluggish and avoiding food, it could be a humidity or heat issue.

For certain species, there are telltale signs of dehydration. Even if you provide your pet with a water dish, many herps actually get moisture from their environment and rarely drink water at all. For instance, chameleons won’t recognize a water dish as a source of moisture at all. You will notice their coloration becomes rather dull and their eyes will become sunken if they don’t get enough water. Eventually, they will perish from dehydration before they notice a water dish in their enclosure. When you own a chameleon, you actually have to provide a constant source of dripping or moving water or do lots of misting of the cage so that your pet doesn’t get dehydrated.

For other species, you might notice issues with shedding. If your snake’s substrate doesn’t contain enough moisture, it will shed in pieces rather than one long tube, which is the healthy way. Other animals might have issues with perpetual shed or their scales and coloration might appear dull constantly.

Other signs that you might need to make adjustments include lethargy, secretiveness in the form of burrowing or never emerging from hiding, or lack of waste elimination.

The best way to avoid issues with temperature and humidity are to simply check and adjust frequently.

What are the pet reptiles that have the simplest and easiest temperature and humidity requirements?

Many pet herps have been bred in captivity for generations. They are therefore very forgiving when it comes to temperature and humidity ranges.

Below are a few species that we often recommend for beginners:

  • Bearded dragons
  • Leopard geckos
  • Corn snakes
  • Ball pythons
  • Crested geckos
  • Hognose snakes
  • King snakes
  • Blue Tongue Skinks

Conclusion

Reptiles come from all different types of climates and subclimates. This means that they all have different needs when it comes to temperature and humidity ranges. Desert animals should not have the same humidity levels as a tropical animal.

The single most important piece of advice we want reptile owners to know is that they need to do research and be prepared! There is not a “catch all” temperature or humidity range that works for all pets. Before you acquire any reptile, make sure that you invest in the proper equipment to maintain its habitat requirements. You can check out any of our care sheets or blog articles for reference or you can simply Google the species you are interested in and find information specific to the pet you wish to own. And don’t forget – you can always email our customer service experts at sales@backwaterreptiles.com for information as well!

Reptile and Amphibian Awareness Day at the Sacramento Zoo

~ BackwaterReptiles

What is Reptile and Amphibian Awareness Day at the Sacramento Zoo?

The Sacramento Zoo’s Reptile and Amphibian Awareness Day is an event hosted by the zoo and the Greater Sacramento chapter of the American Association of Zoo Keepers. This event educates the public about herps and encourages people to do their part to help conserve these wonderful creatures.

What reptiles reside at the Sacramento Zoo?

Because Backwater Reptiles is based out of Northern California, the Sacramento Zoo is just a short drive away from us. And wouldn’t you know it, the zoo has a really cool dedicated reptile house where lizards, frogs, snakes, turtles, tortoises, salamanders and even some invertebrates reside.

We could definitely visit the zoo any day of the week, given that it’s so close to us, but it certainly was refreshing to see our favorite critters get some of the spotlight. Not only was there plenty of opportunity to learn about herps at the reptile awareness booth, there were also lots of fun activities to get children involved and excited about our scaly friends.

Our favorite herps within the reptile house were probably the rhinoceros iguana and the prehensile tailed skinks. But the zoo also has a rattlesnake, Western pond turtles, a few crocodilians, tiger salamanders, White’s tree frogs, and ball pythons to name just a few.

reptile and amphibian awareness day
Meet Timbuktu, the Sacramento Zoo’s resident ambassador Uromastyx. Timbuktu was out and about for Reptile and Amphibian Awareness Day and his handler was happy to introduce him to new human friends.

Interview with Jasmine Rosario, a zoo keeper at the Sacramento Zoo and a member of the Greater Sacramento chapter of AAZK

Backwater Reptiles was lucky enough to get the opportunity to meet with Jasmine Rosario, a zoo keeper who works with herps and a member of the Greater Sacramento chapter of AAZK. Rosario discussed everything from her favorite herps to the work that the zoo does in order to help conserve reptile populations.

Keep reading to see what Rosario had to say.

Backwater Reptiles: Do you have any particular animal you work in? Do you specialize in reptiles?

Jasmine Rosario: I do work in the reptile department. I also work in the hoof stock which includes giraffes and wallabies and kangaroos too. I am currently being trained in the carnivore section which includes big cats and otters and other cool animals.

BR: How do you get into a job like yours?

Rosario: It is a very competitive field. There are only so many zoos and therefore only so many zookeepers. You have to have a four year animal science degree background and experience. The way that I started was going through their volunteer program as a keeper aide and then when positions opened up, they saw my potential and let me work in the lower ranking or beginning position which is commissary. In commissary you do diet prepping for all the animals in the zoo and from there they train you in other areas to help out. So that’s my beginning as a zoo keeper.

BR: Where did your personal interest in reptiles start?

Rosario: It actually started when I started working here. Bill Bennett, who is on the board of directors for NCHS got me into it. He took me under his wing and had me doing exhibit projects. He got me involved in NCHS and I ended up adopting three snakes. I have two ball pythons and a corn snake.

BR: What exactly do you do on a day to day basis to care for the animals here?

Rosario: It’s a lot of cleaning exhibits and making sure things are sanitary. There’s a lot of feeding and putting out enrichment to make sure your animals are entertained and kept busy. You have to keep a good eye on them and make sure they’re healthy. That means alerting a vet or vet tech if there are any problems that you notice.

BR: How do you do enrichment for a reptile?

Rosario: It’s pretty difficult. For dart frogs, we have the kid camp do little paper tubes. They cut holes in the tubes and we shove fruit flies in it so the flies burst out. We have sulcata tortoises and we’ll give them balls to roll around with dandelion greens sticking out. Sometimes they’ll get different diet items like pumpkins during the fall. Even just switching around their exhibit can be enrichment enough since they’re in a new environment.

BR: What do you think is the most challenging reptile or amphibian to care for?

Rosario: I think all the amphibians are the hardest. There’s a lot that goes into their care that people don’t think about. Water quality is a big one. You don’t want nitrates or nitrites or ammonia in their water, so you have to constantly test for that. We also won’t put them in tap water. They have a special reverse osmosis system, so they do need special water. Diet is another big factor. With reptiles and amphibians you have to make sure you’re providing a variety of items. UVB lighting is a big factor as well to prevent bone disease. You also have to make sure they get enough calcium and vitamins. It’s a balance.

BR: Do you have a favorite herp that you work with?

Rosario: They’re all pretty cool, but I think I like the common chuckwallas the best because they’re really cool. Our giant garter snake, Cleo, is also really cool. We’re the only institution that has a California giant garter snake. She was injured and brought to us.

giant garter snake
The Sacramento Zoo has a giant garter snake named Cleo.

BR: What is a reptile or amphibian that you wish the Sacramento Zoo could get?

Rosario: A lot of the keepers really want to get in some more crocodilians. A gharial would be cool, but we don’t really have space for that in our reptile house. Some giant snakes would be awesome too, like a reticulated python.

BR: You mentioned you’re involved with the Greater Sacramento chapter of the AAZK. What is the goal of that organization?

Rosario: The AAZK is basically a group that helps to advance zoo keepers in their career, but our chapter here is more of a conservation based effort. It’s welcoming to the public and we have a lot of docents and volunteers that join too, not just our staff and zoo keepers. Our focus is to raise money and do awareness events like this so that people get thinking about some of the animals that need our help out there in the wild. We do a lot of fund raising events too. Later in the year we’ll have a giraffe day and a primate day where we’ll be raising money for organizations that cover those animals. We’ve donated a lot of money to organizations that help out animals.

BR: Is the zoo currently involved in any conservation or breeding efforts?

Rosario: In the past we’ve been involved in the Western pond turtle project. It’s on hold right now because they are doing genetic testing because it turns out that our turtles are from different regions and they want to figure out what turtles are from where. That’s the biggest project we’re involved with as far as reptiles and amphibians are concerned.

BR: What do you think about keeping reptiles as pets?

Rosario: It depends. They’re pretty tough to take care of. You have to create the full environment for them. It’s cool to have them if they have proper husbandry and if they’re bred or not fit to be in the wild. I don’t agree with taking them out of the wild. I would recommend the ones that are most often bred in captivity – ball pythons, corn snakes, leopard geckos, etcetera – as pets. They’re almost domesticated because we breed them so much. Nothing exotic or endangered or crazy where they are plucked out of their environment.

BR: What can you tell me about the activities and events you have going on today for reptile and amphibian awareness day at the zoo?

Rosario: We have a few things at our station including a scavenger hunt that takes place in the reptile house. Kids find the animals in the proper exhibit and there’s a fact sheet where they learn things about the species and they get a t-shirt. We have paper snake chains that represent the lengths of the snakes full-grown in reality. We also have the frog jump where we have three species of frogs’ average jump length and kids can see how they compare to them. There are coloring activities and life cycle matching games. There’s also information on the characteristics of reptiles and amphibians and what makes them different since people always tend to link them together even though they’re totally separate groups. We also have some diet guessing games and some turtle chow guessing games with prizes.

BR: Do you feel that the awareness days at the zoo are successful?

Rosario: Yeah, as long as people are learning a little bit of something, then I think they’re successful.

ball python
Although this is a ball python from Backwater Reptiles, the Sacramento Zoo also has ball pythons.

Conclusion

Fans of reptiles and amphibians are already aware of how cool these creatures are. We love interacting with them, observing them, conserving them and teaching others about them. We don’t need a special day to show our appreciation for reptiles. But at Backwater Reptiles, we’re all about any event or activity that educates about why herps deserve our love and attention, which is why we’re grateful to have had the opportunity to attend Reptile and Amphibian Awareness Day at our local zoo.

We hope you enjoyed our interview with a local herp zoo keeper. It’s not every day that we get to talk to someone as educated and up to date on the proper husbandry and techniques needed to keep our favorite critters healthy. What questions would you have asked the zoo keeper?