Invertebrates

Which Substrate is Right for Your Reptile?

~ BackwaterReptiles

The first step in caring for a new pet reptile, amphibian or invertebrate is to make sure that it has a suitable environment to make its home. This means that you’ll need to set up an enclosure that mimics the animal’s natural habitat as closely as possible. You’ll need to take into account temperature, lighting, cage accessories, and humidity.

Another very important aspect of creating your new pet’s ideal home that can easily be overlooked is substrate. You wouldn’t want to live in a house without carpet, tile, or some other type of finished flooring, would you? Similarly, our herp friends need appropriate “flooring” in their cage in order to thrive and live long, happy herp lives.

In this article, we will discuss various types of substrates and which types of animals they are best suited for.

types of substrate
There are so many options when it comes to reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate substrates.

What options do I have when it comes to substrate?

Did you know that choosing the correct type of substrate is essential not only to an attractive-looking cage, but a healthy herp as well? Not all substrates are right for all types of animals, and it is very important that you do your research prior to choosing a substrate.

Substrates help keep cages clean, make it easier to collect and spot clean feces, waste, and shed skin, and they also ensure that your pet feels at home and unstressed in its environment.

Below, we’ve listed the pros and cons of the most popular types of substrates and what types of animals they are best suited for.

Wood

Substrates made of wood are usually broken down into chips, shavings or pellets. Aspen is a very common example of a wood substrate, however wooden substrate can be made of cedar, pine, aspen, and cypress.

Pros:

Wood substrates are generally very easy to obtain from nearly every pet store.  You need not travel far to find the most common types of wood substrates.

Wood substrates like aspen snake bedding work very well for species that prefer dryer environments. With a high moisture absorbency rate and a tendency to stay dry overall, it’s a great option for burrowers who don’t need a lot of humidity in their environment.

Wood shavings, pellets, and chips are very easy to spot clean. Waste tends to stay put and not be dragged around or aggregate throughout the enclosure, so when it’s time to tidy up, not much effort or time is needed.

Cons: 

Some shavings can be too “hard” on specific species. For instance, shavings can hurt sensitive toes and hands or even act like splinters.

Some types of wooden substrates might be dyed or colored and this could negatively impact the health of your animal. Be sure to check the label to ensure this is not the case.

Cedar is not a safe substrate for most reptile species, particularly snakes! The oils present in cedar are commonly accepted to be toxic to many reptiles. Our advice? Steer clear of cedar altogether!

wood shavings as substrate
This Arizona Bark Scorpion was being kept in an enclosure with moist wood shavings.

Reptile Carpet

Reptile carpet is exactly what it sounds like. It usually comes packaged in a roll and has the texture of felt crossed with astroturf. It’s a nifty miniature liner for your reptile’s cage and it usually comes in a few different colors.

Pros:

Most of the carpets sold are washable! This means you can re-use them and not have to keep buying other types of substrate once they get dirty.

They can come in sizes predesigned for specific common herp habitat sizes. They also come in sizes that you can shape or cut to your desired size. There’s lots of flexibility.

You don’t have to worry about your pet accidentally ingesting substrate. Carpet has no loose pieces or small bits for reptiles or amphibians to eat.

Cons:

They are not as natural-looking as wood, soil, or moss substrates, so fans of life-like enclosures are generally not drawn to reptile carpet.

Paper Towels/Newspaper

Paper towels and newspaper aren’t really substrates that require much explaining. Both are paper products and both are commonly found in most households.

Pros:

Both these options are cheap! And you can also feel good knowing that you are recycling your newspaper after its initial first use.

Paper towels and newspaper are very sanitary. Because they are so inexpensive, they can be changed very quickly when soiled without much fuss.

They can be used for a multitude of different types of herps. You can shred them and make them a “fluffy” substrate suitable for burrowers, or you can lie them flat on the bottom of the cage.

Due to the texture and content of both newspaper and paper towels, there is also no need to worry about your pet accidentally ingesting substrate while eating. Therefore, you need not stress about impaction or move your pet during feeding sessions.

Cons:

Many herp owners who create elaborate and fancy habitats for their pets won’t use paper towels or newspaper because it’s not very aesthetically pleasing.

Paper towels and newspapers are great at absorption, however they lack odor control. If you are not able to change them quickly when they get dirty, the smell can get a little powerful.

Alfalfa Pellets

These compact little pellets are made of ground up alfalfa hay that is then compressed into tiny cylindrical bits.  They are dry and absorbent and generally work well for iguanas, bearded dragons, and even Uromastyx lizards.

Pros:

These are absorbent! That means that the waste products of well-hydrated reptiles will be kept in a single spot and can be cleaned up with very little mess or hassle.

Pellets are usually biodegradable and even have built-in odor control. Because the pellets are made from natural plant fibers, they are also safe in accidentally ingested.

Cons:

As previously mentioned, alfalfa pellets are quite dry. This means that they are not the best substrate for all types of pets. Make sure you are using alfalfa pellets only if your pet tolerates low humidity well.

Coconut Fiber

As its name suggests, coconut fiber is made from the husks/shells of coconuts. It can be sold in broken down, loose form in bags or compact little bricks.

Pros:

Coconut fiber is very versatile and works for a broad range of exotic pets. It is natural and therefore safe for animals to burrow in and it holds its shape well which means that it accommodates this type of behavior well.

It’s also helpful in maintaining proper humidity levels since it holds moisture well. Coconut fiber is a smart bedding choice for many tropical species and also works well with invertebrates.

Cons:

Coconut fiber can be a bit on the tougher side to keep clean. Because it holds moisture efficiently, it can pose an issue with clumping together and holding your pet’s waste all in one place for easy spot cleaning.

Moss

The two main types of moss used for substrate are peat moss and Spanish moss. Both can be purchased at pet stores.

Pros:

Moss is very aesthetically pleasing when creating natural-looking reptile enclosures. It adds color and texture to plain cages and provides many hiding places for animals.

Moss is also a good way to maintain proper humidity levels as it holds moisture well. Many amphibian owners choose moss as either an accent or mix-in for lining their pet’s cage.

Cons:

In order to avoid bacteria or fungus growing on the moist moss, it will have to be removed and dried out periodically. Many herp owners find that it’s just easier to purchase new moss rather than go through the process of disinfecting the moss, which does involve baking it.

Moss will also generally need another “thicker” or heftier substrate underneath it when using it line the bottom of an animal’s cage. Moss is best used as an accent to help maintain proper moisture levels and is generally  not used as a solo substrate.

ashy gecko
This Ashy Gecko was being kept in an enclosure with a moss additive in order to maintain proper humidity levels.

Organic Potting Soil

This is a pretty simple and straight forward substrate. Soil that is not treated with chemicals or fertilizers is an extremely versatile option when it comes to reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate  bedding.

Pros:

Versatility! Potting soil can be used for many species of lizards, lots of invertebrates such as scorpions and arachnids, and also certain types of amphibians.

Potting soil is great for burrowing. Because it tends to hold just the right amount of moisture, it also holds its shape nicely so that burrowers can dig and tunnel and the soil won’t collapse on them.

You can purchase potting soil in many different locations including hardware store, department stores with garden sections, and even nurseries. This means that you likely won’t have to visit a special store in order to purchase what you need. But again, we’d like to stress that the soil must be organic and untreated with chemicals, fertilizers, or other plant growth promoting compounds.

Cons:

You can easily get potting soil too wet on accident. Unlike many other substrates that retain moisture well, soil cannot be easily dried or “wrung out” in the same manner that moss or pellets can. Once you get soil too wet, you essentially just have to wait for it to dry. And believe us when we say that you don’t want substrate that is too moist. It can lead to a whole host of problems including fungus, respiratory ailments in your pet, and bacterial infections.

Vermiculite or Perlite

Both of these substrates are used to help retain water in horticulture. They are usually added to soil. They are a bit unconventional and you probably won’t see too many herp hobbyists using them solo to line cage bottoms.

Pros:

Excellent moisture content! Both vermiculite and perlite are minerals that absorb and retain water, which is why they are commonly used in horticulture. This means they are also a sensible option for maintaining moisture and humidity levels with exotic pets.

Both of these types of substrate are commonly used as incubating mediums for reptile eggs.

Cons:

Both vermiculite and perlite are best used as accents to a staple substrate to help retain moisture. We don’t recommend using them alone as substrate, unless you are incubating eggs.

Vermiculite and perlite are also probably not the most cost effective type of substrate. For the quantity you should be using, you’ll be paying a bit more than many of the other options listed.

Sand

Reptile sand is commonly available at virtually all commercial pet stores, however playground sand purchased from a toy store can also be used.

Pros:

Sand is readily available and easy to find at various stores. It’s also generally very aesthetically appealing. It even comes in different colors if you want to create a fun, flashy enclosure for your pet.

Cons:

Sand can be messy! If you get it wet, it clumps and can stick to your pet’s feet, tail, and legs. Plus it’s a hassle to clean if you get any outside of the cage.

Impaction is a huge concern when housing a reptile on sand. If your pet accidentally ingests sand while consuming live prey, you run the risk of creating a blockage in the animal’s digestive tract which will be difficult for the animal to pass.

Sand also does not provide much (or any) odor control.

No Substrate

Most pet reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates should always have a substrate of some kind lining the bottom of their enclosure. However, with certain arboreal species, substrate is not a necessity.

A great example of a species that does well with no substrate are chameleons. Because chameleons are rarely down on the bottom of their cages and spend the majority of their time in the plants and vines in their enclosures, it’s not necessary to line the bottom of their cage in order to make the lizard feel more at ease. Some chameleon owners do still line their cage bottoms with paper towels in order to easily collect and remove dead insects and feces, however it is not a requirement for the  health of the chameleon.

ambanja panther chameleon
Did you know that most species of chameleon actually don’t need a substrate in their cage to be healthy and happy?

Conclusion

It’s important to do your research when selecting a substrate that is appropriate for your pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate. Substrates are not “one size fits all” and different animals will most certainly require different beddings.

What type of substrate does your critter use?

Meet the Backwater Reptiles Resident Herps!

~ BackwaterReptiles

It goes without saying that every member of the  Backwater Reptiles team is passionate about reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates. But did you know that we often fall in love with the critters that come to our facility? In fact, the Backwater Reptiles office is filled with the pets of Backwater Reptiles employees!

Want to meet the herps and inverts that we love and live with at the office? Read on to learn more!

Meet the Resident Reptiles, Amphibians, and Invertebrates of Backwater Reptiles

Nyke – Anerythristic Savannah Monitor (Varanus exanthematicus)

If there were a single reptile that is the face or mascot of Backwater Reptiles, it would be Nyke.

Nyke is approximately three years old and he was the first pet reptile adopted by an employee. He arrived at the facility as a tiny little anerythristic Savannah Monitor and he has grown into quite the beast with an appetite to match.

Nyke started out in a small terrarium eating small insects such as crickets, mealworms, roaches, and other similar invertebrates. Now, at his current size, he’s eating a varied diet of mice, eggs, and other animal proteins.

Check out the video of Nyke eating some quail eggs below.

Friendly as a lap dog, Nyke is known for roaming the office and begging the Backwater Employees for scraps, even if nobody is eating! He enjoys sitting on our laps, getting scratches on his head and chin, and staying warm and cozy under his heat lamp.

Savannah Monitors make excellent pets for reptile hobbyists who want an interactive animal. Not only do they take well to human interaction and provide endless entertainment at meal time, they are also known for their ability to adapt to leash walks and for taking baths in human bath tubs when they grow up.

anery savannah monitor
Nyke somehow manages to sit on laps, even though he’s got some impressive claws!

If you are interested in a pet Savannah Monitor of your own, Backwater Reptiles has them for sale, however please do your research and be prepared to keep a somewhat demanding animal. Not only do monitors of all types require lots of food, they grow to large sizes and will need a space big enough to comfortably house them.

Vossena – Hypo Motley Colombian Redtail Boa (Boa c. imperator)

Vossena, a female Hypo Motley Colombian Redtail Boa, has been a fixture in the Backwater Reptiles office for quite some time. She came to us a little bit older than a hatchling, and she has most certainly grown!

hypo motley colombian boa
Vossena is a Hypo Motley Colombian Boa. This photo was taken of her shortly after she arrived at the facility. She has since doubled in size!

Although she’s not the cuddliest boa at the facility, Vossena does spend plenty of time outside of her cage during business hours, interacting with the team while they work.

Vossena can get a bit nippy when she’s hungry, so we always make sure she’s well-fed before handling her and we exercise caution when removing her from her cage.

Zedsly – Colombian Redtail Boa Mix (Boa c. imperator)

Zedsly came to the Backwater Reptiles facility as a rescue — and the team fell in love with him! We’re not one hundred percent sure, but he is a Colombian Redtail Boa mix with probable Hypo genes.

Zedsly is also the newest reptilian family member to join the Backwater Reptiles crew. He spends most of his time chilling out in his cage next to his mom’s computer work station, but like all the other resident office snakes, he enjoys spending time with the employees while they work.

Colombian Redtail Boas are very popular amongst reptile enthusiasts with good reason. They are adorable as hatchlings and they mature into decent-sized snakes that tend to enjoy being handled. If you are interested in a Colombian Redtail Boa of your own, you can purchase one from Backwater Reptiles here.

DeVille and Tartar – Crested Geckos (Rhacodactylus ciliatus)

This Crested Gecko duo are actually related! Tartar, who got his name because his coloration resembles the condiment tartar sauce, is DeVille’s son!

hatching crested gecko
Tartar was hatched at the Backwater Reptiles facility and we were lucky enough to witness him emerging from the egg!

Little Tartar was actually hatched at the Backwater Reptiles facility last year. DeVille, on the other hand, came from a reptile show. Despite the fact that we handle reptiles and other critters on a daily basis, we are still susceptible to their charms and we rarely go to a show without taking a new family member home.

Overall, the geckos mostly keep to themselves. They enjoy meal time and hiding in the foliage in their cages.

crested geckos
Here’s a photo of DeVille with Tartar’s mother. Don’t they make a lovely pair?

If you are interested in a pet Crested Gecko of your own, you can purchase adults, babies, and various morphs here.

Hades – Blue Eyed Leucistic Ball Python (Python regius)

Hades is a blue eyed leucistic Ball Python around a year or so old. He arrived at the facility as a hatchling and has since undergone multiple sheds and grown appropriately.

If you were to visit the Backwater Reptiles facility, you’d likely find Hades sitting in his mother’s lap if she’s at the computer. He enjoys the warmth and helping out with sending emails.

While Ball Pythons can be stubborn or picky eaters at times, Hades has always had a healthy appetite. He’s grown from eating pinkie mice to frozen/thawed fuzzies. Sometimes he’ll even eat two in a row!

ball python
Hades is a blue eyed leucistic Ball Python. This is an image from his very first photo shoot on the day he arrived at the Backwater Reptiles facility a little over a year ago.

Overall, Ball Pythons are great pet reptiles for hobbyists of all experience levels. They aren’t very hard to maintain and their housing requirements are fairly simple. They are popular additions to reptile collections because they are available in a seemingly endless variety of color morphs.

If you are interested in owning a pet Ball Python of your own, Backwater Reptiles has quite a collection of morphs available for sale. We can also acquire rarer morphs – just email our customer support team at sales@backwaterreptiles.com if you are interested in a morph not listed on our website.

Franklin – White’s Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea)

Franklin the Dumpy Frog is a recent acquisition to the Backwater Reptiles critter family. He arrived at the facility last year and has been charming us with his cuteness ever since.

On any given day, Franklin can be found hanging out in the foliage or on the walls of his enclosure. He’s known for being very photogenic as he appears to be smiling in just about every photo he takes.

Franklin enjoys eating crickets and other insects and having his enclosure misted.

whites tree frog
Doesn’t Franklin look like he’s smiling?

Whites Tree Frogs are very hardy pet amphibians and we do highly recommend them for beginners. Like most pet frogs, they should be handled sparingly, but overall they are a friendly species.

If you’re interested in a Whites Tree Frog of your very own, Backwater Reptiles sells them here.

Manson – Antilles Pink Toe Tarantula (Avicularia versicolor)

Manson is an Antilles Pink Toe Tarantula about a year to a year and a half old. He arrived at the facility as a tiny spiderling with a half inch leg span and has grown into a colorful spider with a friendly disposition.

Manson has matured from consuming pinhead crickets to full-sized roaches and crickets. He’s got a healthy appetite and watching him at meal time is always a treat.

antilles pink toe tarantula
Manson has grown from a tiny spiderling into a colorful tarantula!

Although Manson doesn’t enjoy helping the team out with emails around the office, he does sit in his enclosure near the computers where he can oversee the Backwater Team comfortably.

Manson’s mom does handle him when he’s not preparing to molt and when he comes out of his hiding place or web to say hello.

Conclusion

Everyone working at the Backwater Reptiles facility loves reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates.

So it’s no surprise that our office is filled with herps that make us smile and make the work day breeze by.

You can be sure that we’ll likely fall in love with more critters as they arrive at the facility. Guess it’s true for the Backwater Reptiles employees that reptiles are kind of like potato chips – you can’t have just one…even at work!

How to Pick Up a Pet Tarantula

~ BackwaterReptiles

Although tarantulas are not the most hands-on type of pet, they can be handled and interacted with if you understand the animal and its body language.

While we recommend leaving your pet tarantula to its own devices most of the time, there will be times when you will need to remove your spider from its enclosure. The most common time to take your spider out of its cage is when it requires cleaning.

In this article, we will discuss tips, tricks, and methods for removing your spider from its enclosure as well as handling it in a manner that is the most stress-free for both you and your arachnid.

how to pick up a tarantula
When picking up a spiderling such as this Antilles Pink Toe, be sure to support the spider entirely and be one step ahead of where it will be crawling. Baby spiders can be not only fast, but skittish, so you’ll want to be very careful.

How To Pick Up Your Pet Tarantula

Why would I need to pick up my pet tarantula?

Although it is true that in general most species of tarantula are best observed and not handled, if you are a tarantula owner, odds are that at some point in your spider’s life, you will have to remove the arachnid from it enclosure.

The most common reason to pick up any pet tarantula is to clean the spider’s cage. However, if you are a diligent spot-cleaner, you can certainly keep full-enclosure cleanings to a minimum. For instance, you should make sure to remove any molt exoskeletons once your spider has fully completed the process. Any uneaten cricket or insect corpses should also be removed in a timely fashion.

Many tarantula owners also have the desire to interact with their spider on a one on one level. Again, this should be done by experienced arachnid owners who know how to read their spider’s body language.

While tarantulas might not appear fragile, they can be rather delicate. Plus they have what are called urticating hairs that can be shed in distress. These hairs not only irritate human skin, but they can leave bald marks on the spider if they become overstressed and shed too many of these hairs.

brazilian salmon pink birdeater
Large spiders such as the Brazilian Salmon Pink Birdeater can have tricky dispositions, so be extra careful if you choose to handle one.

How do I handle my pet tarantula?

So now that you know that pet spiders can in fact be picked up and held if you choose to do so, what is the proper way to go about doing so? How do you pick up the spider without stressing it or causing it to bite?

First of all, you’ll want to know that there are certain species of tarantula that we simply do not recommend holding with  bare hands, regardless of your experience level. You can read more about those particular species later on in this article.

But if you do have a species of tarantula that is suitable for limited human interaction, first and foremost, before you even place your hand anywhere near the spider, you’ll want to know how to read the arachnid’s body language. Most tarantulas have very clear indicators that they are not in a good mood and if you notice any of these behaviors, you’ll want to steer clear of handling the spider until the bad mood has passed.

Here are the most common signs that your spider is simply not interested in interacting with you:

  1. Your tarantula lifts a leg or two from the ground and waves it. While the remainder of your spider’s body will stay grounded and relaxed, one or two of its front legs will raise up and be tense.
  2. Your tarantula is rearing up and displaying its fangs. This behavior is a very clear indicator that your spider is feeling aggressive. Odds are if you attempt to pick up, hold, or otherwise disturb your spider while it is in this posture, it will either attempt to bite you or rub urticating hairs in your direction.
  3. Your spider turns around and faces its abdomen towards you. This stance is usually followed by the tarantula rubbing its legs against its abdomen. If your arachnid does this, it is flicking urticating hairs in your direction and you should steer clear if you don’t want your skin to be irritated, red, and itchy.
  4. Your tarantula is extremely sluggish, slow, and hasn’t eaten in a while. In most cases, this means your spider is preparing to molt. While your tarantula might not be exceptionally grumpy during this time, you’ll certainly want to avoid disturbing it or handling it because it can upset the molting process and be hazardous to your spider’s health and well-being.
  5. If your tarantula is lying on it back upside down. This is a sure sign that the spider is undergoing the molting process and definitely should not be disturbed or moved in any way.
mexican fireleg tarantula
We always recommend using two hands when handling a tarantula as they will likely want to crawl.

If your tarantula is flat with his legs bent and abdomen gently parallel to the ground, it means that it is relaxed and feels safe in its current state. This type of posture means that your spider is in the proper mood to be held.

Once you’ve determined that your spider’s body language indicates you can interact with it, the next step is to make sure you are wearing the proper clothing. You might want to wear pants, long sleeves, and sometimes even gloves depending on the personality of your spider. Less skin that you have exposed means there is less of an opportunity for the tarantula to bite you should it become startled or defensive.

If you want to be hands on with your spider, we do recommend wearing gloves until you are 100 percent at ease with your pet and know how it tends to react and behave in general.

If you can, it’s best to have the spider on a flat surface so that you can gently place one hand in front of it and the other behind it to softly encourage the spider forward onto your hands.

Once you have eased the spider into your hands, make slow movements, speak softly, and avoid poking, prodding, or waving the spider around. Being at ease around your tarantula will in return put the animal itself at ease.

You can also use the “paper sliding under a cup” method of picking up your spider. More on that method later. Helpful hint: this method is best for very aggressive spiders.

golden knee tarantula
If you want an interactive pet spider, we highly recommend doing your research as not all species enjoy human handling.

What tips and tricks do you know for interacting with my tarantula?

A really good piece of advice that is (hopefully) self-evident for most spider owners is to keep your fingers away from the spider’s fangs. Don’t poke it or try to hand feed it. If you want to train your spider to accept food from you on command, always use tongs.

Be calm. When you make slow movements you will keep your spider in a calm mindset and it will feel far less threatened than if you make quick, frantic, or jerky movements.

Avoid touching the tarantula’s abdomen. Spiders that possess urticating hairs have them on their abdomen and if you brush these or rub them too hard, they will be released into your skin, which is not a pleasant experience for the spider or for the owner.

When you handle or interact with your tarantula, make sure that you are well out of the reach of other household pets. Avoid handling your spider around noisy dogs, clingy cats, or even other pet spiders. It’s best for the safety of all parties, human and animal, that are living in the household.

If you have a particularly active spider, hold it over a flat surface so that if it unintentionally walks out of your hand, it will not be injured by a fall from a high place. We also recommend keeping overactive spiders in your hands – don’t let them crawl into your hair, clothing, or appendages.

Which species of tarantula are the most interactive?

While many species of tarantula that are not considered classically docile can be held, it is true that there are certain types that are known for their calm temperaments and ability to interact with their owners.

A few species that are excellent spiders for beginners and for people who want to hold their spider are: Mexican Red Knees (Brachypelma smithi), Brazilian Blacks (Grammostola pulchra), Rose Hairs (Grammostola rosea), Curlyhairs (Brachypelma albopilosum), and Pink Toes (Avicularia avicularia).

Which species of spider should not be handled?

Certain species of tarantula are known for their aggressive natures and propensity to fling urticating hairs and/or bite. These types of spiders should not be held. If you need to remove the spider from its enclosure, we recommend wearing gloves or using the paper sliding underneath a cup method.

Here are a few species of spider sold by Backwater Reptiles that we do not recommend picking up: any species of “Baboon” tarantula (King Baboons, Orange Baboons, Ornamental Baboons, etc), Goliath Bird Eaters, and Trapdoor Spiders. Each of these species would pack quite a painful bite.

What should I do if my spider is aggressive?

If you cannot get your pet spider to voluntarily walk into your hands, then you might want to try using a stiff piece of paper and a cup, bowl, or another similar object to place on top of the spider. Then you can gently scoot the stiff paper underneath the cup and pick up the entire set up and move the spider where you need it to go.

This method is best used for spiders that are not meant to be held or for spiders with tricky dispositions. It’s also great for arachnids that are easily stressed.

If you do accidentally get bitten by your spider, the first thing you should do is not panic. You’ll likely be very distracted and possibly even frightened of your spider if you get bitten, but in order to avoid further injury to either you or your pet spider, you’ll need to gently remove the spider from your person and place it back into its enclosure.

holding brazilian salmon pink tarantula
Sometimes it’s necessary to wear gloves when handling spiders with tricky dispositions.

The next step to take in the event of a tarantula bite is to clean the wound. Wash it with soap and water and apply an antiseptic. Watch for signs of infection, a lot of redness, difficulty breathing or an abnormal amount of swelling. If you notice any of these signs, we highly recommend seeking professional medical attention as you could be having an allergic reaction to the bite.

It’s very likely that your spider bite will be painful and likely get a bit puffy and red. Any normal pain reliever such as acetaminophen or Ibuprofen should help with the discomfort.

Should you be unlucky enough to get urticating hairs in your skin, the best way to remove them is to use a piece of tape. Put the sticky side on the affected area and pull it off and the hairs should come out.

If you experience a lot of itching, swelling, or other discomfort after handling a tarantula or after knowingly having urticating hairs flicked onto you, it might be necessary to see a physician, although most cases are not that serious.

NOTE: You should never put your face and/or eyes close to a tarantula, but if you do somehow get urticating hairs in your eye, we do recommend seeing a doctor as soon as possible if you experience side effects that are adverse or long-lasting.

Conclusion

Tarantulas make excellent pets! They are beautiful to look at, fairly low maintenance, and can be fun to handle.

Please keep in mind when buying a pet spider that not all species are meant to be picked up or held. Some species are more docile than others and will take well to human handling, while others are aggressive in nature and should be “look don’t touch” pets.

If you would like recommendations on the best species of spider to keep for your needs or for your family’s needs, you can always ask in the comments section or email our customer service support team at sales@backwaterreptiles.com.

Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia) As Feeder Insects

~ BackwaterReptiles

Introduction to Dubia Roaches

Many reptile, amphibian and invertebrate owners commonly feed their pet(s) crickets. It’s a very common husbandry practice and crickets are most certainly an acceptable, affordable, and convenient feeding option. But did you know that exotic pets need a varied diet just like human beings and shouldn’t subsist solely on a diet of crickets?

So, what other insects should you should feed your reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate besides crickets? At Backwater Reptiles, often times when we don’t feed our animals crickets, mealworms, or commercially prepared food, we turn to dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia).

In this article, we’ll answer some very commonly asked questions about dubia roaches and their usefulness as feeder insects such as:

-What are dubia roaches and do they make good feeder insects?
-What types of exotic pets eat dubia roaches?
-Why should I feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate dubia roaches? What are the benefits?
-How do I breed and raise my own feeder dubia roaches for my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?
-What is “gut loading” and how does it affect my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?
-Where can I get dubia roaches to feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?
-I’ve received my order of dubia roaches. What do I do with them now?
-Are there any downsides to feeding my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate dubia roaches?

Dubia Roaches as Feeder Insects

What are dubia roaches and do they make good feeder insects?

Dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia), which are also referred to as Guyana spotted roaches, Orange spotted roaches, and Argentine roaches, are a species of cockroach that are commonly used as feeder insects in the exotic pet industry.

dubia roach
Dubia Roaches make very nutritious meals for all types of reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates. They are full of protein and low in fat. They also contain a reasonable amount of moisture. We highly recommend them as feeder insects for all types of reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates.

Dubias range in size from one eight of an inch in length as nymphs to two inches long as mature adults. Interestingly enough, if they are not eaten by another animal, they typically have a life span of between one and a half to two years. They are also edible during their entire life span.

Although they might come with a slightly higher price point than traditional feeder insects like crickets and mealworms, dubias are also much higher in nutritional value. This means that YES, dubia roaches do indeed make excellent feeder insects!

What types of exotic pets eat Dubia Roaches?

The answer to this question is short and simple. Virtually all types of exotic pets, including reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates, will eat dubia roaches.

Because dubias are available in so many sizes, they can be eaten by pretty much all sizes of carnivorous or omnivorous animals.

Reptiles that are particularly fond of dubia roaches include: bearded dragons, chameleons, and many species of gecko. Amphibians that eat dubias include mainly frogs and toads, although larger species of salamanders with hearty appetites (a la tiger salamanders) will readily consume dubias too. Finally, scorpions and arachnids are known to have a hunger for dubias as well.

Why should I feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate Dubia Roaches? What are the benefits?

Although crickets, mealworms, reptiworms, wax worms, and other similar feeder invertebrates all make great feeder options for various reasons, dubias are known for their highly nutritious nature.

Dubia roaches have very high protein levels compared to many other chitinous feeder insects. They pack a whopping thirty six percent protein percentage and also contain a lower fat content than many of the “worm” insects such as wax worms, reptiworms, and silk worms.

The calcium level present in dubias is also slightly higher than that of crickets and considerably higher than that of mealworms. This means that although we do still recommend dusting your feeder insects, there is a better chance that your pet will need vitamin supplements less frequently.

Finally, dubia roaches are 61 percent moisture, which is a reasonable amount. While most reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates do acquire moisture through other means, it is good to feed them an insect that contains a good moisture balance.

These nutritional ratios make dubia roaches quite possibly one of the most well-rounded nutritious options when it comes to herp health.

Aside from the obvious health benefits, dubia roaches are also relatively easy to maintain and keep. They are far less noisy, messy, and for lack of a better word, stinky, than crickets. Plus, as we’ve already established, they are edible to herps at all their life stages.

Unlike crickets, which are the most common feeder insect, dubias are not known escape artists. Crickets can and will jump out of holding containers, whereas dubias aren’t inclined to fly and they cannot climb on slick surfaces such as glass or plastic tubs. This means that temporary holding pens as well as long term housing for dubia breeding projects are easy to come by and you’ll never have to worry about a dubia “infestation” in your home from escaping roaches.

Another benefit that most herp owners probably haven’t even considered is the safety of their animal. Crickets are known “nibblers” and can actually injure your pet by gnawing on it if you leave them unattended with your herp. Dubia roaches, on the other hand, are not aggressive and won’t harm your pet if you leave them unattended in the animal’s cage.
How do I breed and raise my own feeder Dubia Roaches for my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?

While dubias are an excellent nutritional option for feeding your reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate, they are not as readily available via pet stores and they are also a bit costlier than traditional crickets. Luckily, dubias are actually relatively simple to breed and maintain. All you’ll need to raise your own dubias at home is a ventilated enclosure, heat source, food, water, and hiding space(s).

dubia roach breeding
Luckily, dubia roaches are very easy to maintain in captivity. They are edible at all life stages and breeding them is a breeze. You won’t need many supplies, just an enclosure, food, water, hiding spaces, and a heat source. You don’t even have to clean their enclosure frequently!

The first thing you’ll need to start your own breeding colony is of course the dubia roaches themselves. Luckily, Backwater Reptiles does sell starter breeding colonies! Each colony also comes with the supplies you’ll need to begin keeping your dubias including: instructions, roach food, water crystals, and egg crates.

The good news about keeping dubias is that they do best if you just leave them alone. You should regularly check to make sure that they have fresh food and water, but other than that, maintenance is very simple. In fact, dubia roach enclosures only need to be cleaned two to three times per year! Leaving the droppings and other accumulated detritus in the bottom of the enclosure is actually beneficial to the roaches for many reasons.

Once your colony has been established, you should remove feeder roaches at regular intervals and keep them housed separately from your growing roaches and breeding roaches.

Naturally, dubias are scavengers like all cockroaches and the good news for breeders is that this means you can feed them a variety of things. We recommend a food that is dry and doesn’t encourage rot, mold, or fungus to grow inside the roaches’ enclosure. Cereal, dry pet food, and chicken feed are all acceptable options, but you can also give them house scraps such as bread.

When it comes to roach feeding, it’s also recommended that you provide a “fresh” food source at least once or twice per week. Fresh food includes everything from leftover greens, citrus fruits, potatoes, and even fruit such as apples or grapes.

Just be very mindful when feeding your dubias fresh food items. You’ll want to make sure that the food you’re giving them is not harmful or toxic in any way to the species that will be ingesting the dubias. You’ll also want to remove any uneaten fresh food remnants from the enclosure to avoid bacteria, rot, and mold from forming.

What is “gut loading” and how does it affect my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?

Gut loading is the process of giving your feeder insects highly nutritious food in order to pass that nutrition on to your pet that will be consuming the roach. Keep in mind that your pet is essentially eating whatever your feeder insect eats, so gut loaded insects of all varieties, whether crickets, roaches, reptiworms, or any other type of invertebrate, are directly transferring the nutritional value of what they’ve eaten on to your pet. Ever heard that common saying that you are what you eat? Well, in the case of gut loaded feeder insects, this is literally true!

One thing to keep in mind when gut loading your dubias is that this species of roach has a slower digestion process. Unlike crickets and some other species of feeders which produce a lot of waste in very short amounts of time, the food given to a dubia will stay in the roach’s system for much longer, thereby providing more residual nutrition to your pet.

The bottom line is that you should feed your dubias well because their health is directly correlated to the health of your pet.

Where can I get Dubia Roaches to feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?

As we’ve already mentioned, dubia roaches are not readily available in most commercial pet stores.

However, the good news is that even if you are not lucky enough to have a store in your area where you can buy dubias, you can purchase them online.

bearded dragon adult
Bearded dragons are one species of lizard that will virtually never turn down a dubia roach. They love eating them and have quite large appetites!

Did you know that Backwater Reptiles sells feeder dubia roaches of all sizes and ages? And shipping is absolutely one hundred percent free!

I’ve received my order of Dubia Roaches. What do I do with them now?

If you have no intention of starting your own breeding colony of dubias, maintaining the dubias you ordered online is still just as easy.

The growth rate of dubias compared to crickets is much slower, so the good news is that whatever size roach you order should stay the same size for the duration that you have it before it gets fed to your pet.

We recommend providing the same elements you’d provide for your breeding colony – food, water, enclosure, heat element, and hiding space – only on a smaller scale.
Are there any downsides to feeding my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate dubia roaches?

In reality, dubia roaches are one of the most nutritious and “healthy” options for your pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate. There are not many downsides to mention in terms of nutritional worth.

Virtually the only cons we can think of when it comes to feeding your herp dubia roaches are the costliness of the roach and the availability of the roach.

As we’ve mentioned already, dubias are not commonly sold in stores, nor are they the cheapest insect you can feed your herp. However, if you can offset cost and availability by either breeding your own colony or making your roach orders last you for a while by practicing good husbandry habits, then feeding your pet dubia roaches is well worth the extra effort!

Conclusion

Dubia roaches are excellent choices as far as feeder insects are concerned.

Dubias are a very healthy and nutritious option for exotic pets and herps of all types! Scorpions, lizards, frogs, and even tarantulas all love to eat them. And the good news is that because dubias pack such a nutritional punch, you ultimately end up having to feed your pet fewer of them than you would if you chose another species of feeder insect.

Do you have any special tips or tricks to offer readers when it comes to dubia roach husbandry? List them in the comments! We’d love to hear your experiences!

Are Crickets Good Feeder Insects?

~ BackwaterReptiles

If you’ve ever had a pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate, you’re likely aware that many of these animals eat insects such as meal worms, crickets, and roaches at meal time.

Crickets are actually a very common insect that are eaten by virtually all types of insectivorous exotic animals. We’d even go so far as to say that they are a “staple food” when it comes to reptile feeding.

In this article, we’ll touch upon some commonly asked questions about feeder crickets such as:

-Do crickets make good feeder insects?
-What types of exotic pets eat crickets?
-Why should I feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate crickets? What are the benefits?
-How do I breed and raise my own feeder crickets for my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?
-What is “gut loading” and how does it affect my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?
-Where can I get crickets to feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?
-I’ve received my order of feeder crickets. What do I do with them now?
-Are there any downsides to feeding my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate crickets?

Crickets as Feeder Insects

Do crickets make good feeder insects?

The short, sweet, simple answer to this question is YES! They make great feeder insects and we highly recommend them for feeding virtually all types of animals.

crickets as feeder insects
As you can see, we keep a lot of crickets at Backwater Reptiles because we have many mouths to feed! All crickets need in order to thrive is a container to live in, a food source, and some egg crates or other similar “furniture.”

Crickets are probably the most popular option when it comes to feeding insectivorous and omnivorous reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates and for good reason. We’ll go into more detail as to why they make such nutritious meals later on in this article.

What types of exotic pets eat crickets?

As we’ve already mentioned, virtually all insectivorous reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates consume crickets.

Omnivorous lizards such as bearded dragons, some skinks, and even iguanas will all happily eat crickets. Carnivorous lizards such as young monitors, chameleons, geckos, and many species of agama also love to eat crickets on a daily basis.

Amphibians such as frogs, toads, and salamanders are also insectivores and will therefore gladly eat crickets for breakfast, lunch, and/or dinner.

Believe it or not, even other invertebrates such as scorpions and tarantulas eat crickets.

Why should I feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate crickets?  What are the benefits to using crickets as feeder insects?

Crickets are extremely nutritious food for pet herps. They possess a ton of protein and a fairly decent water content as well. However, we will say that because they are both smaller and less dense than other feeder insects, like dubia roaches for example, your pet will need to consume more in a single sitting to get the same nutritional value.

We do highly recommend crickets as feeder insects due to their ubiquitous nature. Not only can you order feeder crickets in bulk online from many sellers, you can also pick up as many as you need from virtually any big box, commercial pet store in your area. Crickets are very, very commonly fed to exotic animals of all types, so they are very easy to purchase at a physical store front when necessary. This is a huge benefit in our book because if you accidentally run out of crickets and your pet is hungry, food for them is usually very easy to come by on that same day. No need to wait for them to arrive in the mail while your pet goes without food for a day or more.

Another added bonus to feeding your pet crickets that has nothing to do with nutritional value is that crickets are inexpensive. While other species of feeder insects most certainly are beneficial to your pet’s health, crickets are generally the cheapest option. This tends to be true whether you purchase them in bulk or on a case by case individual need basis. Because crickets are everywhere as a food source, the market for them is fairly inexpensive and this appeals to many exotic pet owners.

Not only are feeder crickets nutritious, ubiquitous, and inexpensive, they also come in a variety of sizes. You can purchase pinhead crickets to feed smaller reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates such as dart frogs, baby chameleons, and anoles, but you can also purchase full-grown adult crickets to feed to large pets such as mature bearded dragons, adult frogs of many species, and large scorpions and tarantulas.

How do I breed and raise my own feeder crickets for my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate? 

We’re going to be up front and state right off the bat that breeding and raising crickets to save money on purchasing them as feeders is quite a pain in the rear end! In most cases, it is actually more cost efficient and time efficient to just order your crickets online or purchase them locally from a pet store.

Raising and breeding crickets requires space, time, effort, and a tolerance for the cricket’s smell, noise level, and propensity to escape.

For these reasons, we don’t even breed and raise our own crickets at the Backwater Reptiles facility, and we feed hundreds of reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates on a daily basis.

However, if your mind is set on breeding feeder crickets of your own, there are some very handy tutorials online. A quick Google search will reveal a multitude of videos and written instructions on how to do so, but we’re going to steer clear of this topic for the purposes of this blog article.

What is “gut loading” and how does it affect my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?

Gut loading is a term used to refer to what the feeder crickets are themselves eating at meal time. It essentially means that the crickets are being fed a specific diet that ensures that they are as nutritionally dense as possible for the animals that will be eating them.

Feeder crickets are essentially an empty vessel. Whatever the crickets eat is basically what your pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate will be eating. The process of gut loading feeder crickets ensures that your pet gets the most out of meal time.

Gut loaded crickets are fed a variety of foods that are healthy for exotic animals. Most will eat a commercial cricket chow that is specially formulated to deliver nutrition, but often times this staple food is supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables. It’s not uncommon to give feeder crickets items such as: carrots, dark leafy greens (kale, collard greens, romaine lettuce, mustard greens, etc.), squash, sweet potatoes, wheat germ, prepackaged reptile foods, fish flakes, and regular potatoes (peel included). Your pet should have a varied and balanced diet, and because gut loaded feeder crickets usually do, the nutritional benefits are passed along.

Where can I get crickets to feed my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate?

As we’ve already mentioned, feeder crickets are very, very easy to come by both online and in physical store fronts.

In our opinion, where you buy your feeder crickets depends upon how many you require at a time, how many animals you’ll be feeding, and what’s most cost effective for your budget.

If you are a serious herp hobbyist with many pets to feed, we highly recommend ordering in bulk from an online retailer. It is not only more cost efficient, but it saves you time because you don’t have to trek to the store to purchase what you need. The crickets will be shipped direct to your doorstep, just like with any other type of online purchase.

scorpion eating a cricket
As you can see, crickets make excellent food items for invertebrates as well as reptiles and amphibians.

If you only need to buy a small amount of crickets because you’re just feeding a single animal, we don’t recommend ordering in bulk. This is because not only will your single animal probably not be able to eat all the crickets you order, but the crickets will likely grow and end up being too large for your pet to eat, especially if you buy juvenile crickets. There’s also the possibility that your crickets will die before they even get the chance to become your pet’s dinner.

If you’re looking for a reliable feeder cricket bulk supplier, Backwater Reptiles has certainly got you covered! Simply click here and select a quantity of either 500 or 1,000 from the drop down menu. Your feeder crickets will be shipped overnight for free direct to your doorstep. So convenient!

Smaller quantities of feeder crickets can be purchased from chain pet stores such as PetCo or PetSmart. Many smaller mom and pop feed stores and pet stores also sell feeder crickets in manageable quantities.

I’ve received my order of feeder crickets. What do I do with them now?

You can expect your feeder crickets to live about a few weeks, depending on the age and relative size that you purchase. Obviously, younger crickets will live for a bit longer as they are farther from the end of their life cycle.

Because your pet will probably not be eating all of the crickets you purchase in a single setting, there are things you should do in order to keep your remaining feeder crickets alive and healthy for your pet’s next meal time.

First of all, you will need a holding container for the crickets. Depending on the number of crickets you purchased, a bucket or tall tub should work just fine.

Next, make sure there is some sort of hiding space/crawling space that your crickets can call home for the brief remainder of their life cycle. Generally, when you purchase crickets from the store, you will get a piece of cardboard egg crate. This will usually suffice for the few days that you keep the remaining uneaten crickets.

Lastly, you’ll need to provide a food source for your feeder crickets. If you only have a few crickets to care for, you can just toss a carrot or a piece of potato into the container where your crickets are being held. There’s no need to provide a water dish as crickets get all the water they need from the food they consume.

Now that you’ve provided them with food and some “furniture,” your crickets have everything they need to survive for the next few days while you continue to feed them to your critter.

Are there any downsides to feeding my pet reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate crickets?

Although crickets are excellent food for many exotic pets, they are certainly not perfect. There are definitely some downsides to feeding them to your pet, although these are not because they are not nutritionally poor or lacking.

First of all, crickets can be quite smelly. This is one of the main reasons many people prefer to simply order and/or purchase crickets as needed rather than breed and raise them on their own. The digestive tract of crickets is rather short and simple, so they process their meals in twenty-four to forty-eight hours, and therefore create and eliminate waste rather quickly, which is what causes the distinctive odor that usually accompanies their housing arrangement.

newborn parsons chameleon
Because feeder crickets are available in multiple sizes, you can even find crickets small enough to feed to tiny animals like baby chameleons.

Secondly, crickets are actually rather mean insects. This doesn’t mean that they will bite you and you certainly have no need to fear your feeder crickets, but they can be quite nasty to your pet if left unattended. This essentially means that when you feed any reptile, amphibian, or even invertebrate crickets, you will need to stick around for the duration of the feeding and make sure that any crickets that are not consumed are removed from the enclosure. Otherwise, crickets can actually bite and injure many animals, no matter how unlikely it seems.

Crickets are also known for being escape artists. It’s pretty much inevitable that some will escape from their enclosure, especially if you keep large quantities.

And one final thing we’d like to mention about crickets as feeder insects is the noise they make. As you’re likely aware, crickets are known to chirp and this behavior stays with them even in captivity. So if noisiness bothers you, you might want to think twice about trying to maintain your own personal feeder cricket colony and just purchase feeders as needed.

Conclusion

We hope this blog article has been helpful in laying out the pros and cons of crickets as feeder insects.

While there are certain drawbacks to breeding and maintaining your own colony, we personally think it’s more cost efficient and less time-consuming to just purchase your feeder crickets as needed.

Overall, crickets make excellent meals for all sorts of reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates!