Amphibians

The Top 5 Most Unique Pet Reptiles and Amphibians

~ BackwaterReptiles

What are the most unique pet reptiles and amphibians?

Reptiles and amphibians are considered somewhat unconventional pets on their own. But because there are so many different species to choose from, we wanted to take the time to outline our top five most unique species. In our estimation, Budgett’s Frogs, Red-Eye Crocodile Skinks, Western Hognose Snakes, Sirens, and Surinam Toads are the most unique reptiles and amphibians that are commonly kept as pets.

What makes Budgett’s Frogs (Lepidobatrachus laevis) unique?

Budgett’s frogs take the cake when it comes to uniqueness. They have an unmistakable appearance plus they certainly know how to speak their mind, which is quite an interesting talent for a frog to possess.

When you first see a Budgett’s frog, we wouldn’t be surprised if you thought the frog was rather blob-like. They are primarily aquatic and their body shape and design reflects this. They have small but very protruding eyes, super long fingers and also tend to be quite flat when not fully submerged. The overall effect is quite comical.

In addition to their funny appearance, Budgett’s frogs can have attitude. If you upset or stress a Budgett’s frog, they will certainly let you know. They rear up on their hind legs and inflate as large as they can. They open their mouths wide and emit a loud scream to make them seem far more threatening than they truly are. While we don’t recommend annoying your frog enough to make it display this behavior, if it ever happens, it truly is a sight to behold.

Backwater Reptiles sells healthy, captive bred Budgett’s frogs with Frog Ranch genetics. You can learn more here.

What makes Red-Eye Crocodile Skinks (Tribolonotus gracilis) unique?

In general, we find skinks to be quirky and original lizards. They tend to be long and slinky with shorter arms which means their locomotion is fun to watch. But, in our estimation, the most unique skink is the Red-Eye Crocodile Skink.

Red-Eye Croc Skinks look like little dragons and this is initially what attracts so many owners to this adorable lizard. Their scale formation coupled with their boldly orange or red rimmed eyes is reminiscent of the mythical creature that so many of us envision in our imaginations.

Similar to opossums, Red-Eye Croc Skinks will play dead if they feel overly stressed or threatened. They simply become unresponsive and it can be quite scary and shocking to experience as an owner if you have never witnessed it before. Luckily, once your skink has had time to calm down and feels secure once more, it will spring back to life magically and its normal patterns of behavior will resume.

You can purchase your own Red-Eye Crocodile Skink here.

What makes Western Hognose Snakes (Heterodon nasicus) unique?

We are huge fans of the variety of morphs of Hognose Snakes that you can find these days. They range in coloration and pattern and are quite beautiful to behold. However, our favorite physical trait of this unique snake species has got to be its adorable little turned-up nose! This trait is what this snake is known for and we feel that it is very aptly named.

Another little known fact about Western Hognose Snakes is that they are rear-fanged venomous. There is heated debate amongst herp keepers and enthusiasts as to whether or not this species should actually be considered venomous. Truthfully, their venom or modified saliva, depending upon who you talk to, is only dangerous to their prey.

Because hognose snakes are rear-fanged, they don’t have a typical venom delivery system like rattlesnakes, cobras or other well-known venomous snakes do. A hognose would have to bite you and chew or gnaw in order for their saliva to get into the wound and cause any type of reaction in a human. Because these snakes would rather play dead than gnaw on a human, we’ll head right on into our next point about why we think Western Hognose Snakes are so unique.

In simple terms, hognose snakes have developed a playing dead behavior in order to get potential predators to leave them alone. When a hognose feels threatened, it will roll over and display its belly scales, open its mouth wide and let its tongue loll out of its mouth. They even go so far as to emit a stinky smell that mimics death and rotting. What a unique and fascinating trick!

You can purchase your own Western Hognose Snake from Backwater Reptiles by clicking here.

What makes Sirens unique?

We didn’t specify a species when discussing sirens simply because they are all similar and they all possess very similar unique traits as well.

In case you are unfamiliar with sirens, it’s helpful to know that they are salamanders that possess neotenic traits. In other words, they possess larval traits of salamanders, namely gill tufts that remain with them throughout their entire life, not just their larval stage.

So although sirens are amphibians and should technically undergo a two-stage life cycle, they do remain fully aquatic their entire life. They grow quite large and ultimately do resemble the salamanders that so many of us know and love, but they don’t really emerge from the water.

While there are several species and varieties of siren that can be kept as pets, Backwater Reptiles sells Lesser Sirens. While sirens are cool and unique pets, we do only recommend them for experienced herp owners. Their aquatic lifestyle and habitat requirements coupled with their large size at maturity can make them a challenge to successfully keep in captivity.

What makes Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) unique?

Surinam Toads are so ugly you can’t help but think they are cute! Not only do they have flat bodies, they also have triangular-shaped heads. Their beady little black eyes also contribute to their bizarre physical appearance.

Probably the most unique characteristic of this species is the manner in which they reproduce. Males produce a strange underwater clicking noise and a female then releases eggs into the water. The male proceeds to fertilize the eggs and push them onto the female’s back where they stick to her skin. Eventually, the skin grows up around the eggs forming a network of pockets or pouches of protection. When the toadlets are ready to emerge, they stick their snouts out of her back skin which makes for quite a strange view.

In part due to their nontraditional body shape and lifestyle, this amphibian is primarily aquatic. Once again, we do only advise that experienced herp keepers invest in Surinam toads as they do have specific care requirements.

Conclusion

There are many wonderful kinds of reptiles and amphibians out there that we feel make excellent pets for different kinds of people. If you are interested in a species that is unique for one reason or another, we hope you found our list helpful!

If you are in the market for a reptile, amphibian or invertebrate with particular characteristics that we did not discuss in this article, please feel free to reach out to our talented customer service team. They would be happy to make recommendations and can be reached by emailing sales@backwaterreptiles.com.

Misters Versus Foggers

~ BackwaterReptiles

Do I need a mister or a fogger for my pet reptile or amphibian?

If you have a pet reptile or amphibian, then you probably understand that some species require more humidity than others. In order to maintain proper humidity levels, many owners rely on misters or foggers. So, which machine is better suited for your pet?

What is the difference between a mister and a fogger?

Both misters and foggers operate by using water. They each disperse water through different methods with the end goal of raising the humidity level within your pet’s enclosure.

A mister is a machine that essentially creates rain. Machines have one or more hoses with a nozzle on the end that create a water spray. It’s similar to what you might create by using a water spritzing bottle manually.

As its name implies, a fogger uses water to create a smoke-like fog within your pet’s enclosure. It tends to keep moisture in the air rather than allowing it to collect on objects within the enclosure in droplets.

Which animals need misters?

Animals that enjoy humid, wet environments benefit from using misters.

Many reptiles that drink water that collects on leaves in the wild enjoy misters. Chameleons, geckos and tropical lizard species are great examples of herps that often have misters used in their enclosures.

Although they won’t necessarily drink water from the mister, a lot of arboreal snake species benefit from misters too. Ball pythons, tree pythons and some boas have misters within their enclosures and this can help avoid shedding problems from lack of humidity.

Owners of amphibians including salamanders, frogs and toads will also often use misters to keep substrate and the immediate environment wet.

Which animals need foggers?

Foggers are great options for reptiles and amphibians that are used to high humidity tropical climates. Many species that are native to rain forests thrive when a fogger is used.

Dart frogs, tree frogs and tropical geckos benefit from foggers.

Sometimes, herp owners will even use both a mister and a fogger alternating in order to replicate natural environments to the best of their ability.

dart frogs need foggers

How do I know if the mister or fogger is doing its job?

The easiest way to tell if your machine is doing its intended job is to be keenly aware of the health of your pet. If shedding is going well, the animal is eating regularly and eliminating waste normally, then odds are your machine is functioning properly.

We do typically recommend that owners invest in a hygrometer to measure humidity within the enclosure. Even if everything seems to be going well, it is always good to have hard data to back up your observations. Typically, humidity should be within a specific range of values for any given species and a hygrometer is certainly a useful tool to help you ensure that your enclosure is within those important measurements.

How do I buy a mister or fogger?

There are a few factors to take into consideration when purchasing either a fogger or a mister.

First, you will need to consider the size of your enclosure. Small enclosures will require less powerful machines with fewer outputs. Large enclosures for bigger animals such as monitor lizards, full-grown iguanas and large snakes will probably need a machine with multiple hose output capabilities.

Another feature that is important for many owners is programmability. Usually, it’s safe to assume that you’re buying a mister or fogger to automatically mist or fog on a schedule. Therefore, many owners want a machine that includes a timer and the ability to turn on without having to manually press a button. Most models come equipped with a timer function, but some of the fancier ones can sync up with your hygrometer and turn on when the reading falls below a certain level. It’s quite handy for herps that require very specific environments.

These days, you can buy both types of machine online very easily. You can also find basic models at large retail pet store chains too. Even vendors at reptile expos have been known to carry these types of supplies.

fogger

Conclusion

Both misters and foggers are excellent options for maintaining proper humidity levels within your pet’s enclosure. Whether or not you need a mister, a fogger, or even both types of machines will depend upon which animal(s) you own, what type of environment they require and how much maintenance you can personally perform.

In the end, we recommend that you research the individual needs of your particular animal and choose a mister or a fogger accordingly.

What Do White’s Tree Frogs Eat?

~ BackwaterReptiles

Are you considering getting a White’s tree frog for a pet, but you’re unsure what to feed it?

White’s tree frogs eat insects. In captivity, this means they will eat a wide variety of feeder insects including crickets, roaches, worms and other bugs. Ultimately, the insects you choose to feed your White’s tree frog is up to you, but a varied diet is always beneficial.

This species of frog is so popular that it made our list of the best pet tree frogs.

what do whites tree frogs eat
In the above picture, you can see two blue-eyed White’s, a special morph that we offer for sale.

What type of insects should I feed my White’s tree frog?

White’s tree frogs, AKA Dumpy tree frogs, are insectivores. They only eat living insects. This means that you as an owner are free to choose from a variety of feeder insects to fulfill your frog’s dietary needs.

The most commonly available feeder insect is crickets. You can find feeder crickets at commercial pet stores, feed stores and through online vendors. The main thing to take into consideration when feeding your White’s tree frog crickets is the size of the crickets.

A baby frog cannot eat a full grown cricket and likewise adult frogs should not be eating baby or pinhead crickets as their primary food source. You want to get a cricket that your frog can comfortably eat that will satisfy its appetite.

While crickets do make great staple food for White’s tree frogs, we also recommend Dubia roaches if you have a good supplier. These roaches are very high in nutrients and pack quite the punch when it comes to keeping your frog fed and happy. Again, since roaches are available in many sizes, the only thing we’d mention that you need to be aware of is the size of the roach you will be giving to your frog.

Other great options for White’s tree frogs are reptiworms, wax worms, hornworms and mealworms. All of these insects will squirm or move about in a manner that triggers your frog’s feeding response. We recommend that if you want a real show you hand feed using tongs. It can be quite entertaining since Dumpy frogs have large appetites.

feeder roaches
Here are a few different feeder roaches Chelsey is holding.

Should I feed my White’s tree frog vitamin supplements?

In short, the answer is yes!

Most reptiles and amphibians that are kept in captivity do require some amount of additional calcium and vitamin supplements in their diet. White’s tree frogs are no exception.

In our experience, metabolic bone disease and other associated disorders from poor nutrition are less common in pet amphibians than they are in reptiles. However, that does not mean that you should be lax in administering the proper vitamins and nutrients your frog needs.

We recommend dusting your feeder insects with Sticky Tongue Farms’ indoor supplement at least once weekly, if not more. Younger frogs should be given dusted insects every feeding, but as your frogs mature, you can dust less frequently.

supplements for whites tree frogs

How often should I feed my pet White’s tree frog?

Baby frogs should be fed at least once daily. Since most owners will likely be feeding crickets, we do advise that you either tong feed them or place a very limited number of crickets in the cage at any given time. You do not want the cage overrun with crickets as they can actually injure the frog. If you find your frog hasn’t eaten, we advise trying again in the evening when the frog will be most active.

Juvenile to adult frogs don’t need to be offered food as frequently as babies do. We still usually feed them every day until they are considered subadults. At this life stage, we typically feed them three times per week or about every other day.

The key to health when it comes to frequency of feedings is to note your frog’s weight. Dumpy frogs can easily become overweight if you allow them to. Watch closely to see how bulgy your frog’s tummy is and how much padding it seems to have on its face and leg areas. Obesity is not healthy, but obviously neither is being too thin.

dumpy frog food

Where can I find insects for my White’s tree frog to eat?

Most commercial pet stores will have a few sizes of crickets on hand for reptiles. They often also have live mealworms. However, don’t buy prepackaged dead insects such as flies or crickets for your White’s tree frog. Your frog will simply not eat dead bugs.

If you want to conveniently obtain a variety of feeder insects for your frog, we do recommend ordering feeder insects online. Backwater Reptiles sells a wide variety of feeder insects in bulk quantities to last longer. Our feeders include a variety of sizes of crickets, roaches, reptiworms, fruit flies, hornworms, mealworms and wax worms to name a few.

Will White’s tree frogs eat mice?

Yes, adult White’s tree frogs can and will eat baby mice. In fact, it’s a great treat for them and can boost their growth noticeably. I wouldn’t recommend it more than once every week or two. If you feed them baby rodents too often, they’ll get obese and it’ll end up shortening their lifespan.

Conclusion

White’s tree frogs like to eat and will accept a broad range of insects at mealtime. Crickets are the most commonly used feeder insect for this species of frog, but we highly encourage owners to branch out and utilize other types of feeder insects for different nutritional value.

No matter what type of insect you feed your White’s tree frog, make sure that you have an appropriate vitamin supplement on hand to dust them with. It’s essential for your frog’s best health.

If you ever have any questions about what type of insect or what size feeder insect you should buy for your pet White’s tree frog, you can reach out to our friendly customer service team by emailing sales@backwaterreptiles.com.

If you’re interested in getting your own captive bred White’s tree frog, you can buy one of our’s by clicking this link. We have snowflakes, blue-eyed, and greens available, and all are produced by the world renowned Frog Ranch.

Salmonella and Pet Reptiles and Amphibians

~ BackwaterReptiles

A common concern many new reptile or amphibian owners have is encountering the bacteria known as Salmonella. While it is true that reptiles can be carriers of the bacteria, we want to delve deeper into this topic and explain in detail when, why, or how you  should or should not be concerned when it comes to Salmonella and your pet.

Read on to learn more about how to take proper precautions and in what rare instances Salmonella infection from your pet could occur.

What Is Salmonella?

Salmonella is a strain of bacteria that generally affects the bloodstream and digestive system. It causes intestinal distress such as diarrhea and vomiting, abdominal cramps, and fever. When someone is infected with Salmonella, it is called salmonellosis.

We’d like to make it known that while reptiles and amphibians have gotten a bad reputation for being carriers of this bacteria, salmonellosis is mainly caused by eating “bad” food. Reptiles and amphibians are not the leading cause of this illness.

Salmonellosis can be serious and lead to hospitalization, although most people usually overcome the illness within a few days and recover fully without needing any treatment.

salmonella in amphibians
A good way to avoid infection and keep your amphibian healthy is to wear gloves when cleaning their enclosure or handling the animal. This White’s Tree Frog was being held by an employee during his weekly cage cleaning. Notice how the employee is protecting the frog and herself by wearing gloves.

Symptoms of Salmonella In Humans

Although we’ve previously touched upon the main symptoms of salmonella infection in most people, here is a complete list of potential symptoms an infected person might experience:

-Mild or severe diarrhea

-Abdominal cramping

-Vomiting

-Fever

-Chills

Can My Pet Reptile or Amphibian Give Me or a Family Member Salmonella?

While it is a possibility that your pet reptile or amphibian could unintentionally infect you or a loved one with Salmonella, it is highly unlikely if proper husbandry and care techniques are used when handling the animal and cleaning its enclosure. It’s also usually necessary to come into direct contact with the animal or its accessories in order for infection to occur.

Salmonellosis is most frequently seen in young children under the age of five, older folks, and those with compromised immune systems. We recommend exercising caution if you or someone you know fits this criteria and you want them to avoid potential illness.

If you are a healthy person with a normally-functioning immune system, you should likely be just fine handling your pet reptile or amphibian. Just make sure to be smart. This means washing your hands after handling your pet, keeping the cage as clean as possible, using hand sanitizer if applicable, avoiding putting the animal or your hands in your mouth during or after handling, and sometimes wearing gloves depending on what species you own.

In short, the answer is yes, your pet reptile or amphibian could give you Salmonellosis, however it would be mostly in cases of negligence on the owner’s part.

keep cages clean
It’s very important to maintain clean cages when keeping reptiles. At the Backwater Reptiles facility, we clean enclosures like these baby Parson’s Chameleon cages once weekly and spot clean as needed. Maintaining clean cages is good for both the health of the animal(s) and its owner.

How Can I Avoid Catching Salmonella From My Pet Reptile or Amphibian?

The best way to avoid catching Salmonellosis from your pet reptile or amphibian is to exercise common sense. Keep your pet’s enclosure clean. Bathe or soak your pet regularly, although we don’t recommend that you use any soap! Wash your hands after touching your pet. And avoid contact if you know you have a compromised immune system.

We handle reptiles, amphibians, and their cage accessories every day at the Backwater Reptiles facility and not a single employee has yet caught Salmonellosis. Here are some rules we always apply at the facility in order to make sure that we stay as healthy as our animals.

  1. Always wash your hands after handling or touching any reptile or amphibian. The same holds true for touching or handling anything in or around their enclosure. Hand sanitizer also works wonders, particularly if you don’t have immediate access to water and antibacterial soap.
  2. If children will be near the animals, make sure playtime is supervised. You wouldn’t want any animals to end up in a child’s mouth for many reasons, including the possibility of catching salmonellosis.
  3. Make sure that anyone coming near the enclosure or handling any reptile or amphibian is healthy and does not have a compromised immune system.
  4. If you have handled reptiles, amphibians, or any of their accessories, do not touch your face or put your hands in your mouth for any reason. Salmonella is more readily transmissible through consumption, which is why it is more commonly seen as a food-borne illness.
  5. Although it might be fun to let your pet monitor, iguana, or large snake roam the house, we recommend making sure that they steer clear of any area in the home where food is prepared.
  6. Make sure that habitats are kept clean! This is essential to both the health of your pet and the household. Make sure that cage accessories are washed properly using an antibacterial sanitizing agent. Wear disposable gloves when performing routine cleanings.
  7. If you allow your pet reptile to hang out on your clothing, make sure to wash the clothing carefully.

reptiles and salmonella
If you have a friendly pet such as a Savannah Monitor that enjoys getting exercise, roaming the house, and hanging out in your lap, make sure that you wash you clothing after handling.

Conclusion

Ultimately, while it is not impossible to catch Salmonella from your pet reptile or amphibian, it is very unlikely unless you just happen to be a young child or an individual with a compromised immune system.

Follow our guidelines and use common sense when handling your pet reptile or amphibian and you should have no issues.

turtles and salmonella
Turtles are excellent pets, but because they can be semi-aquatic, we do recommend that you wash your hands immediately following handling one. We also recommend maintaining a very clean tank.

Unboxing Your New Pet Reptile, Amphibian, or Invertebrate

~ BackwaterReptiles

Not all pets are purchased from a local breeder, commercial pet store, or rescued from a re-homing service. Many reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate species can actually be shipped right to your door overnight, which is where Backwater Reptiles comes in!

Did you know that each year Backwater Reptiles ships hundreds of animals overnight to customers just like you as well as to zoos, universities, and other educational facilities?

While the concept of shipping an animal might seem foreign or strange to some, we want to assure our customers that we are experienced in packing our critters so that they have the safest journey to their new forever homes.

If you wish to learn more about exactly what is involved in our shipping and packing process, you can read all about it in this article.

costa rican zebra tarantula
Every year, Backwater Reptiles ships hundreds of animals to private homes, zoos, and even educational establishments. We ship arachnids, like this Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula, reptiles, amphibians, and all sorts of other invertebrates. Read this blog article to find out our recommendations for a safe and uneventful unboxing of your new pet!

I’ve signed for my new family member. What do I do now that I’ve received my package? Should I unpack the box in any special way? Will my new pet be a bit peeved, peckish, or thirsty after its travels?

Not to worry – we get loads of questions every day about these types of matters. In this article, we’ll answer not only these frequently asked questions about unpacking your new arrival, but go into detail about how to make sure your new pet has the opportunity to acclimate to its new home with the least amount of stress possible.

What Do I Do Now That I’ve Received My Package?

Unboxing Your New Pet Reptile

When you receive your new reptile, it will come specially packaged in a box for shipping live animals. We know it’s super exciting, but make sure you don’t shake the box or turn it upside down once it’s in your care.

We recommend placing the box on a sturdy, flat surface or counter and slitting the clear packing tape sealing the box flaps shut. Once you’ve done that, the box should open effortlessly and you can remove the styrofoam lid that keeps everything neatly in place.

Depending on the size of your reptile, it will either come in a breathable canvas bag or a plastic deli cup with a secure lid. Most snakes are shipped in bags, chameleons are generally shipped in bags, and larger lizards such as monitors and ameivas are also shipped in bags. Only very small reptiles such as baby Bearded Dragons, baby turtles, and baby Leopard Geckos tend to be shipped in deli cups.

Once the styrofoam lid has been safely removed, gently lift the bag or deli cup out of the insulated box. If your pet is in a clear deli cup, you’ll likely get your first glimpse of him/her at this point!

baby map turtle
Aquatic turtles such as this baby Map Turtle, will arrive safe and sound to your home in a secure deli cup with the appropriate amount of moisture. Packing with the box also depends highly on temperatures at the animal’s final destination.

Much like a long overnight flight can be draining to a human being, please keep in mind that the shipping process can be a tad stressful on the animals as well. They feel much the same way you would if you had traveled all night long, so we highly recommend allowing your new pet time to decompress and “stretch its legs” after its travels are over. This means keep the handling to a bare minimum for the first twenty-four hours.

If your reptile came in a bag, we recommend untying the fastening on the bag and opening it up after placing the bag inside the animal’s new enclosure. Allow the critter to come out of its travel bag on its own terms and don’t force the animal out unless absolutely necessary.

If your reptile arrived in a deli cup, we recommend removing the cup’s lid and placing it inside the enclosure to allow the animal to exit the cup at its own personal leisure. You can also gently “tip” the animal out of the cup and into the enclosure as well.

In order to ensure your new pet feels at home as swiftly as possible, make sure that your enclosure has all the proper equipment needed. Your pet might be a bit cold and need to warm up, it might be thirsty, or it might need to use the bathroom, so make sure that you offer fresh water, a good place to hide, and a heated area with the proper temperature required for your specific animal’s needs.

Many people think that it’s a good idea to feed their new reptile right away. We do try to make sure that our critters are shipped on stomachs that aren’t too full or too empty, so do not be alarmed if your pet doesn’t show interest in food right away. It’s normal for it to take a day or two (or sometimes even more depending on the species) before your pet will eat. Our recommendation is to offer food and if the animal shows no interest in it, remove the food and try again in a few hours or the following day.

Unboxing Your New Pet Amphibian

Although the external packaging for pet amphibians to travel in the mail is the same as a pet reptile, the internal packing will vary slightly.

Amphibians require moisture to stay healthy, so your amphibian, whether you ordered a frog, toad, salamander, or newt, will be traveling in a deli cup with damp or wet paper towels or other appropriate substrate and a secure lid.

The interior of the box will contain styrofoam panels to keep the cup secure while in transit. You will need to remove the top “lid” panel and then gently lift the deli cup out.

slender salamander
Amphibians, such as this Slender Salamander, are packed differently than reptiles or invertebrates. They need more moisture to ensure a successful journey.

As with a pet reptile, you will want to avoid handling your new amphibian right away if you have ordered a species that is suitable for human interaction. Keep in mind that newts, salamanders, and many species of frog and toad are best as display pets and don’t do well being coddled or held.

By now your amphibian’s habitat should be all set up and ready to go. You’ll want to make sure that your new family member gets plenty of moisture and a safe place to hide right away. You might even want to mist your pet once you get him or her into the enclosure just in case the shipping process left them a tiny bit dehydrated.

Gently open the deli cup within the enclosure and allow the animal to come out on its own terms. Or alternatively, you can also very carefully tip the cup and get your pet to come out.

You can follow the same feeding instructions with an amphibian as with a pet reptile. Your pet may or may not show any interest in food once it is in its new environment, so don’t be alarmed if you offer insects or other fare and it is ignored. Make sure you remove any uneaten food, especially crickets, and try again the following day.

Unboxing Your New Pet Invertebrate

Invertebrates will travel in plastic deli cups since bags are not solid enough to protect their delicate frames. This is particularly true of tarantulas that have urticating hairs as a defense mechanism.

Spiderlings and spider slings will come in very small cups. They are very fast little critters and are also very good at hiding, so be extremely careful when opening up a cup containing a spiderling! In order to avoid any mishaps, we highly recommend opening the cup over top of or inside of the spider’s enclosure. This way if the spiderling jumps or climbs out very quickly, it will land in a safe place inside its habitat and will not fall a large height to the floor. It also means less work for you as you won’t be chasing a speedy spiderling around the house!

Larger invertebrates such as scorpions and tarantulas with longer leg spans will be a bit slower than their baby counterparts. However, because they are venomous, you should still exercise caution when opening the lid of their shipping container. Some of the more aggressive species might be eager to get out!

We recommend the same technique for getting larger invertebrates into their new enclosures. Open the cup slowly and carefully inside the new habitat and allow the critter to come out when it feels good and ready. We don’t recommend transferring the animal from the cup to its cage with your hands since it is likely a little grumpy after its overnight travels.

brown bark scorpion
Be very careful when opening up deli cups containing invertebrates such as this Brown Bark Scorpion. They can be quick and invertebrates sometimes have temperamental dispositions.

Some species, like centipedes and aggressive baboon tarantulas, should not be held at all, so it is even more imperative that you gently coax them into their new enclosure without making contact with your hands if you can at all avoid it.

Again, it’s highly likely that your new invertebrate will be uninterested in eating right away. Make sure that it has a water source and the other appropriate amenities in its new home and offer food that evening or even the following day. Many invertebrate species are nocturnal eaters anyways, so don’t be surprised if they won’t eat until nightfall.

Conclusion

Whether you ordered a reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate, you should exercise caution and be gentle during the unboxing process. Try to make the procedure as smooth and streamlined as possible and limit stress on your new friend by keeping handling to a minimum for the first 24 hours at least.

It’s very common for animals to not eat for the first day or two depending on the species. Don’t be alarmed if this is the case with your new pet. Offer food regularly and remove any uneaten remnants. More important than food is a water source for hydration as shipping can often make animals thirsty.

If you ever have any questions about an animal after you have received it or you have issues of any sort upon unboxing, remember that our customer service team is always happy to assist you. Just email them at sales@backwaterreptiles.com and they will happily offer suggestions and tips if you need any.