Author: BackwaterReptiles

Common Pet Reptile Illnesses

~ BackwaterReptiles

Dealing with illness in your pet reptile

Unfortunately, sometimes part of owning a pet of any type, whether it’s a scaly companion or a furry friend, can be dealing with illness. Just like human beings, our pets can become sick or exhibit symptoms of the onset of an illness and it’s not always anyone’s fault.

Luckily for reptile owners, veterinary medicine is still evolving to accommodate more and more reptilian patients. This means that should your pet become seriously ill, a professional diagnosis and treatment are not too hard to come by.

While the Backwater Reptiles team  has no veterinary training, we do handle reptiles on a daily basis and we have been working with them, handling them, feeding them, and yes, even treating their illnesses for many years. In fact, many of the Backwater Reptiles staff have been keeping pet reptiles since childhood.

In this article, we’ve combined the knowledge of our staff in order to address and discuss some of the most common reptile ailments that a reptile owner might encounter. Again, please bear in mind that any treatments or recommendations listed in this article are suggestions and should not take the place of the diagnosis and/or treatment from a licensed veterinarian or herpetologist.

common reptile illnesses
A very good way to avoid illness in your pet reptile is to keep its enclosure clean. This is especially important in aquatic or semi-aquatic species such as turtles.

What are the most common reptile illnesses and ailments in captivity?

Mouth Rot

Mouth rot is a very common ailment that is also known as oral inflammation and infectious stomatitis. This is a condition that you can clearly see and often times diagnose at home that affects snakes, lizards, turtles, and even tortoises.

Mouth rot occurs when a reptile’s immune system is unable to maintain the natural balance of bacteria that normally occur within its mouth. This can be caused by any number of factors but usually always involves a catalyst that stresses the reptile and its immune system to the point of being unable to function properly. Examples of such situations could be: improper temperature or humidity fluctuations or gradients within the animal’s enclosure, improper or poor diet, or oral injuries caused by snout rub against the cage walls or other surface, injury to the mouth by live prey, or even chewing on substrate/bedding.

The main symptom of mouth rot includes red, swollen, or otherwise irritated oral tissue. However, if left untreated, the inflamed mouth tissue can become black and necrotic or even start leaking pus. Another prominent symptom is a loss of appetite for obvious reasons.

Treatment for mouth rot varies, but if you catch it early, you can generally correct it without too much fuss. You can treat at home for minor symptoms by putting antibiotic ointments on the affected area and making necessary adjustments in your reptile’s enclosure that caused the infection in the first place.

For more severe cases, you will likely need to get a vet involved and have the mouth rinsed and treated with antiseptic liquid and further treated with ointment. Surgery might even be necessary in particularly bad cases.

Prognosis with mouth rot varies and is best viewed on a case by case basis.

Mites

It is known as acariasis when a reptile becomes infected with the external parasites known as mites. While there are numerous species of mite that your reptile might encounter, they are all tiny invertebrate parasites that suck blood.

The symptoms of mites not be all that obvious to you at first if the infestation is a small one. You’ll probably most certainly see the mites first thing though. They tend to look like little black or red specks that hang out around your pet’s eyes or scale crevices.

Mites in and of themselves aren’t too dangerous or threatening to your pet’s health if treated promptly. The main cause for concern should be where and how your reptile got the mites since it’s very easy for them to spread from species to species, particularly if you house all your reptiles in a shared space or room.

reptile mites
Not all reptile mites appear as the ones in this stock photo. Different mites attack different species. Please be aware that this is not a photo of an animal from the Backwater Reptiles facility. It is simply a photo used to help demonstrate what mites can look like and where they might congregate.

While poor husbandry can be the cause of a mite infestation, that is not always the case. Many animals that are imported (i.e. wild caught and not captive bred) are bound to have a few mites as this is a very common occurrence in the wild. The problem occurs when the mites migrate to other reptiles in your home or when the animal becomes confined to its captive enclosure and the mites have a smaller space to multiply. It is at this point that your reptile might develop second hand symptoms from the mites such as a compromised immune system or dehydration.

Mites can be treated first and foremost with isolation or quarantine. The first thing you will want to do as a responsible reptile owner is to separate the infected animal from any others you might have in your home.

Next you will want to clean the infected animal’s enclosure thoroughly by tossing out substrate, soaking/washing all cage accessories in a hot soapy water mixture, and wiping down the interior of the cage.

You will treat your animal with a veterinarian approved mite solution. While there are over the counter solutions sold in many pet stores, we highly recommend checking with your local vet to make sure that the treatment you are choosing is both safe and effective. Never use flea, mite, or tick sprays made for mammals without your vet’s express consent as these often contain ingredients that are more harmful to the reptile than to the mites.

Luckily, if treated accordingly, mites are a fairly common ailment that can be cured with some effort.

Metabolic Bone Disease 

Metabolic bone disease is a serious issue in reptiles that is characterized by an improper balance of calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D. It primarily affects reptiles that are insectivores and is typically not seen in snakes since most species eat rodents which provide complete and adequate nutrition.

Symptoms of metabolic bone disease, or MBD as it is commonly known amongst herp enthusiasts, include: limping, bowed limbs, hard lumps along the legs, spinal column, or jaw, softening and unusual flexibility of the lower jaw, difficulty raising the body off the ground, and a marked decrease in appetite. If calcium levels fall too low, extreme lethargy, tremors, and depression can result in death.

The most common cause of MBD is an imbalanced diet. We highly recommend that all reptile owners check to see what vitamins their pet requires in captivity and that insects are dusted accordingly.

MBD in turtles, tortoises, and some lizard species can also be caused by inadequate exposure to UVB rays. Many types of reptiles need UVB light in order to properly metabolize calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D, so make sure that your UV light bulbs are changed at least every six months and that your pet has adequate time and space to bask in these rays daily. Many reptile owners will also take their pets outside to get natural UVB rays from the sun.

The good news is that if MBD is caught right away and treated immediately, it can usually be corrected. If the disease is allowed to progress too far without treatment however, sadly, often times the ailing animal is unable to pull through.

rescued red iguana
A proper diet is essential to your pet reptile’s health. Not all species eat the same foods and with many species, such as Green Iguanas, variety is key. This rescued Red Iguana is getting some exercise outside her enclosure along with some tasty treats.

Obesity

Obesity is much the same monster in reptiles as it is in humans. Typically, it most commonly affects amphibians. However, there are certain reptile species with hefty appetites that are predisposed to obesity.

Species of reptile that are more commonly treated for obesity include: Blue Tongue Skinks, Bearded Dragons, certain species of monitor lizard, and Tegus.

As you might have guessed, the primary cause of obesity in reptiles is overfeeding. Many reptiles are so eager to eat that they don’t stop when their tummies are full. This obviously results in an overweight animal.

The treatment for obesity is fairly simple once the problem is recognized. Usually, all it takes is some portioned meals and maybe some exercise if you have a species of reptile that can be taken out of the cage for some activity.

Respiratory Infections

The main respiratory infection that is commonly seen in captivity is pneumonia. This disease and most other respiratory issues that a reptile could potentially battle are caused by a bacterial infection.

Depending in the illness or bacterial infection in question, your reptile could potentially exhibit any number of symptoms. The most common symptoms of respiratory infection are: difficulty breathing which can sometimes be hard to notice at first, keeping the mouth held open while breathing, unusual wheezes, crackles, or other sounds while breathing, and any kind of discharge from the mouth and/or nose that could appear clear, white, brown, or even green in color. Symptoms as the illness progresses might include lethargy, loss of appetite, and weight loss.

Although this is not always the case, typically respiratory infections in reptiles are caused by unsanitary conditions in the reptile’s environment. Occasionally, they can be caused by an environment that is too moist and does not maintain proper temperature gradients.

Because the exact cause of respiratory infections can be difficult to diagnose, we do recommend seeking professional veterinary help should you notice that your pet reptile is exhibiting unusual symptoms and/or having difficulty breathing. Your vet will be able to properly diagnose your pet’s illness and issue antibiotic treatment accordingly.

toffee hognose snake
In order to keep your pet reptile healthy and illness-free, we highly recommend making sure that your reptile’s enclosure contains the proper substrate and accessories. A clean cage suited to the needs of your specific pet is one of the best ways to avoid illness.

Conclusion

While we sincerely hope that you never have to deal with a sick pet reptile, it can happen. Our goal with this post is to help identify and perhaps trouble shoot potential issues you might encounter.

Please keep in mind that while Backwater Reptiles has helped rehabilitate sick animals that have been brought to us as rescues, we do not always recommend home treatment. Veterinary care is always the safest option when you notice any symptoms of illness in your pet.

Green Anoles as First Time Pet Lizards

~ BackwaterReptiles

Anyone who takes up a hobby or learns a new activity has to begin somewhere, right? Where might that “somewhere” be for reptile enthusiasts and collectors? For many of us, including a good number of the Backwater Reptiles team, the jumping off point was the common Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis).

We often recommend Green Anoles to parents who are looking for a simple pet with relatively easy care requirements. They are excellent pet lizards for young children.

In this article, we’ll touch upon many of the reasons why we feel that Green Anoles are such excellent starter reptiles. We’ll also dive into their care requirements so that anyone interested in owning their first Green Anole will know what to expect.

green anole beginner reptile
Green Anoles are excellent starter reptiles. We highly recommend them for beginners and young children looking to take care of their first pet reptile.

Why Green Anoles?

Because Green Anoles are so common, they are often overlooked by many reptile enthusiasts. However, Green Anoles are vibrant little lizards with bright green coloration. Males also have dewlaps that are pinkish in color, making them aesthetically pleasing pets. We’re also quite fond of their long, skinny body shape and large, triangular heads.

As we’ve already established, it’s not hard to come by Green Anoles. They are sold at virtually all large retail pet stores as well as small, independently owned pet stores. It’s also pretty much unheard of for a Green Anole to carry a price tag that is more than ten dollars.

We also feel comfortable recommending Green Anoles to first time reptile owners because of their small size. Mature male Green Anoles typically don’t get longer than eight inches and females usually max out around five or six inches long. Half of that length is the lizard’s tail, so these are most certainly pets that stay a manageable size.

Manageable size means manageable cage size as well. Green Anoles don’t need a forty gallon tank to call home. Enclosures of a modest size are the way to go when keeping a single anole – just be sure that your anole also has all the other requirements for staying healthy. Don’t worry if you’re note sure what that entails. We’ll discuss caring for your Green Anole in the next section of this article.

Green Anoles are a species with pretty simple care requirements, however many of those care requirements will hold true for other species of reptile as well. This means that first time Green Anole owners can learn the basics of what reptiles need in captivity simply by caring for their first tiny pet lizard. We’re also of the opinion that it’s a great way for kids to learn about the responsibilities of pet ownership, even if their pet is not a typical furry companion.

anolis carolinensis
Green Anoles stay relatively small at maturity. Adults will typically be between five to eight inches in length.

Caring for Your Pet Green Anole

Green Anole Size and Life Span

We’ve already established that Green Anoles stay small and don’t get longer than eight inches, tail included. However, we did not touch upon their life span in captivity.

With proper husbandry and care, Green Anoles tend to live anywhere between three to six years. While this might not seem like very long, in the wild, they rarely live beyond three years old due to predators and other factors.

Feeding and Watering Your Green Anole

Like many species of lizard, Green Anoles are insectivores, which means that they eat invertebrates. In captivity, they thrive on a diet of vitamin dusted crickets, roaches, and soft-bodied worms such as wax worms.

The best method to ensure that your Green Anole is properly hydrated is to mist the enclosure daily so that water droplets accumulate on leaves and cage decor. In the wild, anoles will lap water that collects on leaves and plants, so replicating this behavior is your safest bet.

Many Green Anole owners also provide a water dish for their pet. While it is not unheard of for anoles to drink water from a dish, there is no guarantee that any particular anole will do so, which is why we recommend making sure there is moisture collecting on the leaves in your anole’s cage.

Another word of advice when it comes to having a water dish in your anole’s cage: Make sure that the dish is shallow enough that if your anole unintentionally climbs in, it can escape with no issues. A water dish that is too steep could result in accidental drowning. You can also place a stick or other object in the water dish that allows the anole to climb out if it finds itself going for an accidental swim.

pet green anole
Some anoles can be skittish. We recommend handling them with care and making sure that you do not grip your anole too hard.

Habitat Requirements for a Green Anole

Green Anoles are arboreal lizards, therefore terrariums that provide more vertical space as opposed to horizontal space are highly encouraged. This will also make it easier to put plants and vines (real or fake) inside the tank for your anole to climb on.

As with many tropical lizard species, ventilation is very important when it comes to housing. We recommend an enclosure that has at least one screen wall. This should help maintain proper humidity and moisture levels without allowing fungus or mold to grow.

Plants, vines, and other vertical cage furniture is extremely important to the health of a Green Anole. Since they are arboreal and spend most of their time in trees in the wild, it is a necessity that your anole has places to hide and conceal itself. It is highly unlikely that your anole will get much use out of a hide space placed on the bottom of the cage.

For a single Green Anole or a breeding pair, we recommend a twenty gallon tank. This size typically provides enough room to accommodate the activity level of both lizards and will also allow for the proper temperature gradient needed in the cage.

Green Anoles are lizards that bask a lot and require full-spectrum UV light for eight hours a day. It is acceptable to turn the light off at night to mimic natural nighttime/daytime cycles.

Ambient cage temperature should be around eighty degrees Fahrenheit or so. The basking area should be around eighty-five to ninety degrees. The cool side of the enclosure should remain in the mid 60s/70s. Humidity levels should be approximately sixty to seventy percent.

The best type of substrate to put in your Green Anole’s cage is something that holds moisture but will not remain super wet. We recommend coconut husk or organic potting soil.

Handling Your Green Anole

While Green Anoles might not be the most friendly lizard, they can be handled. We do recommend that children be closely supervised when interacting with a pet anole as it can be stressful to the lizard to be gripped too tightly or petted too much.

Green Anoles are not aggressive, although you might see males bob their heads and show their throat pouches in territorial displays. This is a species of lizard that rarely bites. An anole would much rather run from you than fight you.

If you do want to have an interactive pet Green Anole, we recommend allowing the lizard to climb and perch on your hand rather than holding it captive. This will ensure that the anole does not feel threatened or stressed and will also give you the opportunity to better view how pretty your pet anole is.

Avoid rough handling or grabbing the anole too tightly in a single hand. While they are tough lizards, they will lose their tails if they feel too endangered or stressed. The key to handling a pet Green Anole is to be gentle. Make slow movements and remain calm so that your anole will feel at ease.

If you find that your anole is particularly skittish, we recommend holding it inside the cage so that just in case it runs, jumps, or hops off your hand, it will land in a safe place. Nobody (lizard or human!) wants to have to chase or be chased around the house after an accidental handling mishap. Once your anole is accustomed to your presence inside the cage, it will become safer to hold it outside the cage.

green anole
Green Anoles are long, lean lizards with triangular-shaped heads.

Conclusion

Many of us have stories from our younger days of getting our first Green Anole from the pet store and joyfully creating an enclosure for the little lizard.

Share your first Green Anole story in the comments! We’d love to hear your tales of these great little starter reptiles.

If you are considering a Green Anole as a starter reptile for yourself or a family member, Backwater Reptiles does have them for sale. And as with all of our animals, we offer live arrival and seven day guarantee within our guarantee terms.

Salmonella and Pet Reptiles and Amphibians

~ BackwaterReptiles

A common concern many new reptile or amphibian owners have is encountering the bacteria known as Salmonella. While it is true that reptiles can be carriers of the bacteria, we want to delve deeper into this topic and explain in detail when, why, or how you  should or should not be concerned when it comes to Salmonella and your pet.

Read on to learn more about how to take proper precautions and in what rare instances Salmonella infection from your pet could occur.

What Is Salmonella?

Salmonella is a strain of bacteria that generally affects the bloodstream and digestive system. It causes intestinal distress such as diarrhea and vomiting, abdominal cramps, and fever. When someone is infected with Salmonella, it is called salmonellosis.

We’d like to make it known that while reptiles and amphibians have gotten a bad reputation for being carriers of this bacteria, salmonellosis is mainly caused by eating “bad” food. Reptiles and amphibians are not the leading cause of this illness.

Salmonellosis can be serious and lead to hospitalization, although most people usually overcome the illness within a few days and recover fully without needing any treatment.

salmonella in amphibians
A good way to avoid infection and keep your amphibian healthy is to wear gloves when cleaning their enclosure or handling the animal. This White’s Tree Frog was being held by an employee during his weekly cage cleaning. Notice how the employee is protecting the frog and herself by wearing gloves.

Symptoms of Salmonella In Humans

Although we’ve previously touched upon the main symptoms of salmonella infection in most people, here is a complete list of potential symptoms an infected person might experience:

-Mild or severe diarrhea

-Abdominal cramping

-Vomiting

-Fever

-Chills

Can My Pet Reptile or Amphibian Give Me or a Family Member Salmonella?

While it is a possibility that your pet reptile or amphibian could unintentionally infect you or a loved one with Salmonella, it is highly unlikely if proper husbandry and care techniques are used when handling the animal and cleaning its enclosure. It’s also usually necessary to come into direct contact with the animal or its accessories in order for infection to occur.

Salmonellosis is most frequently seen in young children under the age of five, older folks, and those with compromised immune systems. We recommend exercising caution if you or someone you know fits this criteria and you want them to avoid potential illness.

If you are a healthy person with a normally-functioning immune system, you should likely be just fine handling your pet reptile or amphibian. Just make sure to be smart. This means washing your hands after handling your pet, keeping the cage as clean as possible, using hand sanitizer if applicable, avoiding putting the animal or your hands in your mouth during or after handling, and sometimes wearing gloves depending on what species you own.

In short, the answer is yes, your pet reptile or amphibian could give you Salmonellosis, however it would be mostly in cases of negligence on the owner’s part.

keep cages clean
It’s very important to maintain clean cages when keeping reptiles. At the Backwater Reptiles facility, we clean enclosures like these baby Parson’s Chameleon cages once weekly and spot clean as needed. Maintaining clean cages is good for both the health of the animal(s) and its owner.

How Can I Avoid Catching Salmonella From My Pet Reptile or Amphibian?

The best way to avoid catching Salmonellosis from your pet reptile or amphibian is to exercise common sense. Keep your pet’s enclosure clean. Bathe or soak your pet regularly, although we don’t recommend that you use any soap! Wash your hands after touching your pet. And avoid contact if you know you have a compromised immune system.

We handle reptiles, amphibians, and their cage accessories every day at the Backwater Reptiles facility and not a single employee has yet caught Salmonellosis. Here are some rules we always apply at the facility in order to make sure that we stay as healthy as our animals.

  1. Always wash your hands after handling or touching any reptile or amphibian. The same holds true for touching or handling anything in or around their enclosure. Hand sanitizer also works wonders, particularly if you don’t have immediate access to water and antibacterial soap.
  2. If children will be near the animals, make sure playtime is supervised. You wouldn’t want any animals to end up in a child’s mouth for many reasons, including the possibility of catching salmonellosis.
  3. Make sure that anyone coming near the enclosure or handling any reptile or amphibian is healthy and does not have a compromised immune system.
  4. If you have handled reptiles, amphibians, or any of their accessories, do not touch your face or put your hands in your mouth for any reason. Salmonella is more readily transmissible through consumption, which is why it is more commonly seen as a food-borne illness.
  5. Although it might be fun to let your pet monitor, iguana, or large snake roam the house, we recommend making sure that they steer clear of any area in the home where food is prepared.
  6. Make sure that habitats are kept clean! This is essential to both the health of your pet and the household. Make sure that cage accessories are washed properly using an antibacterial sanitizing agent. Wear disposable gloves when performing routine cleanings.
  7. If you allow your pet reptile to hang out on your clothing, make sure to wash the clothing carefully.
reptiles and salmonella
If you have a friendly pet such as a Savannah Monitor that enjoys getting exercise, roaming the house, and hanging out in your lap, make sure that you wash you clothing after handling.

Conclusion

Ultimately, while it is not impossible to catch Salmonella from your pet reptile or amphibian, it is very unlikely unless you just happen to be a young child or an individual with a compromised immune system.

Follow our guidelines and use common sense when handling your pet reptile or amphibian and you should have no issues.

turtles and salmonella
Turtles are excellent pets, but because they can be semi-aquatic, we do recommend that you wash your hands immediately following handling one. We also recommend maintaining a very clean tank.

Different Leopard Gecko Morphs

~ BackwaterReptiles

When trying to choose a Leopard Gecko, it can be hard to decide when there are so many different colors and variations available. While not every morph is listed in this article, if you’re thinking of purchasing one on our site, we’ve provided some more in-depth information of some of the morphs we have available and what makes each one unique.

Different Leopard Gecko Morphs

Tangerine Leopard Gecko

tangerine leopard gecko

tangerine leopard gecko morph picture

Tangerines are known for their orange colors, which differentiates them from the typical yellow coloring of Normal Leopard Geckos. The strength of the orange coloring can differ from gecko to gecko as Tangerines can exhibit yellowish-orange to intense orange-red colors.

Did you know that Tangerine Leopard Geckos are one of the most popular morphs sold by Backwater Reptiles?

Super Snow Leopard Gecko

super snow leopard gecko

As babies Super Snow Leopard Geckos can vary from white to gray. As they age however, their patterns start to come out with a high contrast of black and white speckling. They are also known for their solid, all black eyes.

Mack Snow Leopard Gecko

mack snow leopard gecko

Mack Snow Leopard Geckos are hatched with white bands rather than the common yellow bands of other geckos. As they mature, they become black and white but can have light hues of yellow or purple looking pigments. They are known to be the paler-looking of the Leopard Gecko morphs.

Leucistic Leopard Gecko

leucistic leopard gecko

leucistic leopard gecko morph picture

When these Leopard Geckos are babies, they can have a variety of wacky patterns. As they age, they become a more solid gray color all over their body with a purplish gray tail. Leucistics are also known as Patternless Leopard Geckos.

Enigma Leopard Gecko

enigma leopard gecko

enigma leopard gecko morph

Enigma Leopard Geckos are one of the most unique looking morphs due to their irregular spotting and/or colors throughout their body. Rather than bands like most Leopard Geckos, as babies, Enigma Leopard Geckos are easy to spot because their bodies have scattered blotch patterns.

Blizzard Leopard Gecko

blizzard leopard gecko

As babies, Blizzard Leopard Geckos will be yellow and purple and will lack any spots or bands throughout their entire lifespan. They can range in shades of whites and gray with some having a yellowish cast about them.

Blizzards are actually known to possess true leucistic genetics.

Blazing Blizzard Leopard Gecko

blazing blizzard leopard gecko

blazing blizzard leopard gecko morph

These Geckos are double recessive of the Albino and Blizzard traits which makes them solid white with no shades of gray. Some Geckos can have a yellow hue on their bodies however.

Albino Leopard Gecko

albino leopard gecko

albino leopard gecko morph

albino leopard gecko babies

Albino Leopard Geckos babies have light pink and yellow bands, however as they age, they will show brownish markings with lavender coloring.

There are three types of Albino Leopard Geckos: Bell, Tremper, and Rainwater Albinos. The easiest way to determine which your Leopard Gecko is would be to look at their eyes. Bell Albinos have light pink eyes, Trempers have light silver eyes, and Rainwaters have the darkest colored eyes.

Generally Backwater gets in the Rainwater Albinos, however it can vary from time to time.

Sunglow (Hybino) Leopard Gecko 

sunglow leopard gecko

sunglow leopard gecko morph

Sunglow Leopard Geckos are known for their red eyes and solid body color of either orange, yellow, or somewhere in between. They also have varied amounts of carrot-tail, which is orange pigmentation concentrated on the tail specifically.

Pinstripe Leopard Gecko

pinstripe leopard gecko

pinstripe leopard gecko morph

These Leopard Geckos are aptly named as they have stripes or blended spots that look like stripes along their body including the tail. Sometimes Pinstripes will have no patterns in the middle and only on the sides of their body.

Chocolate Albino Leopard Gecko

chocolate albino leopard gecko

Chocolate Albinos are just Albino Leopard Geckos with dark colorations. Getting Chocolate Albino Leopard Geckos can generally be achieved by incubating the Albino eggs at lower temperatures.

Conclusion

Although every Leopard Gecko will be different in color and pattern, we hope that this article gives an especially visual insight on some of the Leopard Geckos morphs sold by Backwater Reptiles.

Click here if you are interested in browsing all the Leopard Gecko morphs sold by Backwater Reptiles.

Don’t miss our other articles on:

What do leopard geckos eat?

Leopard gecko lifespans

Do leopard geckos regenerate their tail?

Do leopard geckos need UV light?

How to breed leopard geckos

How to to set up a leopard gecko habitat

Unboxing Your New Pet Reptile, Amphibian, or Invertebrate

~ BackwaterReptiles

Not all pets are purchased from a local breeder, commercial pet store, or rescued from a re-homing service. Many reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate species can actually be shipped right to your door overnight, which is where Backwater Reptiles comes in!

Did you know that each year Backwater Reptiles ships hundreds of animals overnight to customers just like you as well as to zoos, universities, and other educational facilities?

While the concept of shipping an animal might seem foreign or strange to some, we want to assure our customers that we are experienced in packing our critters so that they have the safest journey to their new forever homes.

If you wish to learn more about exactly what is involved in our shipping and packing process, you can read all about it in this article.

costa rican zebra tarantula
Every year, Backwater Reptiles ships hundreds of animals to private homes, zoos, and even educational establishments. We ship arachnids, like this Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula, reptiles, amphibians, and all sorts of other invertebrates. Read this blog article to find out our recommendations for a safe and uneventful unboxing of your new pet!

I’ve signed for my new family member. What do I do now that I’ve received my package? Should I unpack the box in any special way? Will my new pet be a bit peeved, peckish, or thirsty after its travels?

Not to worry – we get loads of questions every day about these types of matters. In this article, we’ll answer not only these frequently asked questions about unpacking your new arrival, but go into detail about how to make sure your new pet has the opportunity to acclimate to its new home with the least amount of stress possible.

What Do I Do Now That I’ve Received My Package?

Unboxing Your New Pet Reptile

When you receive your new reptile, it will come specially packaged in a box for shipping live animals. We know it’s super exciting, but make sure you don’t shake the box or turn it upside down once it’s in your care.

We recommend placing the box on a sturdy, flat surface or counter and slitting the clear packing tape sealing the box flaps shut. Once you’ve done that, the box should open effortlessly and you can remove the styrofoam lid that keeps everything neatly in place.

Depending on the size of your reptile, it will either come in a breathable canvas bag or a plastic deli cup with a secure lid. Most snakes are shipped in bags, chameleons are generally shipped in bags, and larger lizards such as monitors and ameivas are also shipped in bags. Only very small reptiles such as baby Bearded Dragons, baby turtles, and baby Leopard Geckos tend to be shipped in deli cups.

Once the styrofoam lid has been safely removed, gently lift the bag or deli cup out of the insulated box. If your pet is in a clear deli cup, you’ll likely get your first glimpse of him/her at this point!

baby map turtle
Aquatic turtles such as this baby Map Turtle, will arrive safe and sound to your home in a secure deli cup with the appropriate amount of moisture. Packing with the box also depends highly on temperatures at the animal’s final destination.

Much like a long overnight flight can be draining to a human being, please keep in mind that the shipping process can be a tad stressful on the animals as well. They feel much the same way you would if you had traveled all night long, so we highly recommend allowing your new pet time to decompress and “stretch its legs” after its travels are over. This means keep the handling to a bare minimum for the first twenty-four hours.

If your reptile came in a bag, we recommend untying the fastening on the bag and opening it up after placing the bag inside the animal’s new enclosure. Allow the critter to come out of its travel bag on its own terms and don’t force the animal out unless absolutely necessary.

If your reptile arrived in a deli cup, we recommend removing the cup’s lid and placing it inside the enclosure to allow the animal to exit the cup at its own personal leisure. You can also gently “tip” the animal out of the cup and into the enclosure as well.

In order to ensure your new pet feels at home as swiftly as possible, make sure that your enclosure has all the proper equipment needed. Your pet might be a bit cold and need to warm up, it might be thirsty, or it might need to use the bathroom, so make sure that you offer fresh water, a good place to hide, and a heated area with the proper temperature required for your specific animal’s needs.

Many people think that it’s a good idea to feed their new reptile right away. We do try to make sure that our critters are shipped on stomachs that aren’t too full or too empty, so do not be alarmed if your pet doesn’t show interest in food right away. It’s normal for it to take a day or two (or sometimes even more depending on the species) before your pet will eat. Our recommendation is to offer food and if the animal shows no interest in it, remove the food and try again in a few hours or the following day.

Unboxing Your New Pet Amphibian

Although the external packaging for pet amphibians to travel in the mail is the same as a pet reptile, the internal packing will vary slightly.

Amphibians require moisture to stay healthy, so your amphibian, whether you ordered a frog, toad, salamander, or newt, will be traveling in a deli cup with damp or wet paper towels or other appropriate substrate and a secure lid.

The interior of the box will contain styrofoam panels to keep the cup secure while in transit. You will need to remove the top “lid” panel and then gently lift the deli cup out.

slender salamander
Amphibians, such as this Slender Salamander, are packed differently than reptiles or invertebrates. They need more moisture to ensure a successful journey.

As with a pet reptile, you will want to avoid handling your new amphibian right away if you have ordered a species that is suitable for human interaction. Keep in mind that newts, salamanders, and many species of frog and toad are best as display pets and don’t do well being coddled or held.

By now your amphibian’s habitat should be all set up and ready to go. You’ll want to make sure that your new family member gets plenty of moisture and a safe place to hide right away. You might even want to mist your pet once you get him or her into the enclosure just in case the shipping process left them a tiny bit dehydrated.

Gently open the deli cup within the enclosure and allow the animal to come out on its own terms. Or alternatively, you can also very carefully tip the cup and get your pet to come out.

You can follow the same feeding instructions with an amphibian as with a pet reptile. Your pet may or may not show any interest in food once it is in its new environment, so don’t be alarmed if you offer insects or other fare and it is ignored. Make sure you remove any uneaten food, especially crickets, and try again the following day.

Unboxing Your New Pet Invertebrate

Invertebrates will travel in plastic deli cups since bags are not solid enough to protect their delicate frames. This is particularly true of tarantulas that have urticating hairs as a defense mechanism.

Spiderlings and spider slings will come in very small cups. They are very fast little critters and are also very good at hiding, so be extremely careful when opening up a cup containing a spiderling! In order to avoid any mishaps, we highly recommend opening the cup over top of or inside of the spider’s enclosure. This way if the spiderling jumps or climbs out very quickly, it will land in a safe place inside its habitat and will not fall a large height to the floor. It also means less work for you as you won’t be chasing a speedy spiderling around the house!

Larger invertebrates such as scorpions and tarantulas with longer leg spans will be a bit slower than their baby counterparts. However, because they are venomous, you should still exercise caution when opening the lid of their shipping container. Some of the more aggressive species might be eager to get out!

We recommend the same technique for getting larger invertebrates into their new enclosures. Open the cup slowly and carefully inside the new habitat and allow the critter to come out when it feels good and ready. We don’t recommend transferring the animal from the cup to its cage with your hands since it is likely a little grumpy after its overnight travels.

brown bark scorpion
Be very careful when opening up deli cups containing invertebrates such as this Brown Bark Scorpion. They can be quick and invertebrates sometimes have temperamental dispositions.

Some species, like centipedes and aggressive baboon tarantulas, should not be held at all, so it is even more imperative that you gently coax them into their new enclosure without making contact with your hands if you can at all avoid it.

Again, it’s highly likely that your new invertebrate will be uninterested in eating right away. Make sure that it has a water source and the other appropriate amenities in its new home and offer food that evening or even the following day. Many invertebrate species are nocturnal eaters anyways, so don’t be surprised if they won’t eat until nightfall.

Conclusion

Whether you ordered a reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate, you should exercise caution and be gentle during the unboxing process. Try to make the procedure as smooth and streamlined as possible and limit stress on your new friend by keeping handling to a minimum for the first 24 hours at least.

It’s very common for animals to not eat for the first day or two depending on the species. Don’t be alarmed if this is the case with your new pet. Offer food regularly and remove any uneaten remnants. More important than food is a water source for hydration as shipping can often make animals thirsty.

If you ever have any questions about an animal after you have received it or you have issues of any sort upon unboxing, remember that our customer service team is always happy to assist you. Just email them at sales@backwaterreptiles.com and they will happily offer suggestions and tips if you need any.