Author: BackwaterReptiles

Can My Reptiles Live Together?

~ BackwaterReptiles

Can my reptiles cohabitate?

Many people wonder if it’s safe to have multiple reptiles living within the same enclosure. Furthermore, sometimes people might be interested in housing multiple animals that are different species together. Does this work and is it safe? In this article, we’ll discuss the topic of reptile cohabitation and teach you some guidelines so that your pets can safely live together…or separately.

reptile cohabitation

Which species can live communally together?

For the most part, reptiles are non-gregarious and don’t require a “friend” in their space to keep them happy. But, you can often house a male and female together or multiple females with no issues and maybe even the added surprise of reproduction!

Here are some species that are commonly housed together and typically have no issues with one another: young bearded dragons, certain species of snakes such as garters and rattlesnakes, monkey-tail skinks, shingleback skinks, some species of tortoise and many species of aquatic turtles such as sliders and cooters.

Are there any different species of reptiles that can safely live together?

Again, we want to make it clear that we do not recommend housing reptiles of different species together in one enclosure. It can be done, but it is a controversial subject within the herpetology world and also many people aren’t experienced enough to be able to do so safely.

But, if you want to give it a try, a good species to start off with would be aquatic turtles. Sliders, cooters and painted turtles will actually coexist peacefully in the same pond in the wild and it’s not too difficult to replicate ponds in your own backyard. In fact, it can be quite pleasant to have your own pond populated with fish, turtles and other natural wildlife.

How do I know if it’s safe to let my reptiles cohabitate?

Ideally, you want to do a ton of research prior to putting two animals in the same enclosure, regardless of whether or not they happen to be of the same species.

Here are some things you should consider prior to allowing your herps to cohabitate:

Is there enough space? All animals should feel safe and have places to hide, thermoregulate and eat food. There should be enough room for each to bask or cool off accordingly without competing.

Are the temperatures, humidity levels and substrate suitable for all the animals living within the enclosure? For instance, you don’t want to house a tropical species and a desert species together as they likely have extremely different temperature and humidity comfort levels.

Are the animals known to be aggressive toward others? This could be something as simple as determining if males and females of the same species are safe together year round. It could also be more complicated and require you to know if you have a particularly feisty or skittish species on your hands such as a Tokay gecko or an ameiva.

Will there be enough food? This is the biggest concern you should have. Underfed animals are far more likely to cannibalize other animals, plus no one wants their reptiles skinny and unhealthy even if they are a vegetarian species. Make sure that the animals are all able to eat safely and without stress from others, even if that means moving animals to separate enclosures during feeding time.

Cohabitation Tips and Tricks

Watch your animals. Once you have determined that a group or pair of animals will live together, we advise that you keep a close watch on them at first. This will help you make sure that if any aggression occurs you can immediately separate the animals. It also allows you to watch feeding habits to make sure that all the occupants of the enclosure get the proper portion of food.

Be prepared to make adjustments. Even if you have researched your herps into the ground or you are very experienced in keeping reptiles, we still recommend that you have a backup home prepared. This way if anything goes wrong or you have any doubts that the animals will get along, you still have a safe place for all the animals to live.

Introduce your animals in a neutral space first. If all goes well and they don’t seem to mind one another, you can try putting them in their enclosure together. Many people even use this tactic with furry companions when adding to their household.

Know the gender of your animals. This is an important factor because some animals are only aggressive and territorial when they see another male of the same species, but they will do fine with females. This is true of chameleons and many species of lizards. Get your animals professionally sexed if they are not sexually dimorphic so that you can avoid potential mishaps.

Don’t put different-sized animals together. Even if you are putting strict vegetarians together in the same enclosure, reptiles can get aggressive towards animals that are smaller than them. An even worse outcome would be that the larger animal cannibalizes the smaller one. It’s safest for the animals if they are similar sizes and ages.

House females together. For nearly all species of reptile, other males are viewed as competition and therefore aggression or stress will ensue if you put them together. Most females will tolerate one another relatively well though, so it’s typically safe to allow multiple females to cohabitate.

Quarantine and clean. Prior to introducing a new animal into another’s habitat, it’s wise to quarantine the new one and observe it closely to make sure it does not have any form of illness or parasites that it could pass along to your other herps. You should also make sure that the enclosure is clean and disinfected and ready for both animals to start fresh.

aquatic turtles

Conclusion

As a general rule, we don’t recommend mixing different species in the same habitat. There simply isn’t enough space and habitat requirements vary just enough so that neither species will be fully happy. There is also always the danger of aggression or over competition for resources such as food and water.

However, there are exceptions and some species can cohabitate. Sometimes you can communally house members of the same species together in one enclosure such as leopard geckos and young bearded dragons. And on rare occasions, you can also allow some species to cohabitate such as aquatic turtles and some tortoises.

If you intend to house multiple species together, please always be sure to do your research. That is the number one most important thing you can do to make sure your herps live their happiest and healthiest lives.

What Do Scorpions Eat?

~ BackwaterReptiles

What do scorpions eat? How long do scorpions live? How big do scorpions get?

Many people who are unfamiliar with scorpions might have questions about this interesting invertebrate, regardless of whether or not they want to keep one as a pet. In this article, we will answer basic questions that may or may not have basic answers in regards to scorpions.

what do scorpions eat

Do scorpions make good pets?

The shortest answer we have for this question is – yes! However, scorpions are only good pets if you want a pet that is mainly for display. Obviously, experienced owners do handle their scorpions, but for most people, scorpions simply stay in their enclosure most of the time.

It’s quite obvious that scorpions have an amazing defense mechanism in the form of a stinging tail and so we typically recommend that people only handle scorpions when necessary. In fact, we even have an entire separate blog article dedicated to that specific task.

Many people also enjoy pet scorpions because they are easy to maintain. They need a water dish, a cage cleaning every now and then and food…and that’s basically all they need to thrive.

So, if you’re in the market for a pet that is not cuddly, is easy to care for and requires very little in the maintenance department, a scorpion might just be a good match for you and your household.

What do scorpions eat?

Scorpions are opportunists and will eat many different types of things in the wild. Larger species will even eat small rodents, other scorpions and spiders!

In captivity, pet scorpions will eat virtually any type of insect. Many are fond of crickets and roaches, but worms of many types are also good treats. If you’re lucky enough to have a scorpion that is large enough, such as a fully grown Dictator or fully grown Emperor scorpion, you can even offer an occasional pinkie mouse as a treat.

Because scorpions are most active at night, we advise feeding at night. It’s as easy as offering a worm using tongs or tweezers. You can also toss a cricket or two into the enclosure while the scorpion is not hiding and watch the fun ensue.

Keep in mind that scorpions have slow metabolisms so they don’t need to eat as frequently as mammals do. Young or baby scorpions should be offered food daily, although don’t be surprised if it’s not eaten every day. Adult scorpions really only need to eat every other day or so.

how long do scorpions live

How long do scorpions live?

Honestly, the lifespan of a scorpion will depend upon what species you own. Just like all types of animals, different species of scorpion will have different life spans.

Scorpions are born as tiny versions of their adult selves. They don’t undergo metamorphosis prior to becoming fully grown. They will however molt several times in order to reach maturity. This process can take between one to three years, depending upon the species.

Once a scorpion reaches maturity, it can live for another one to three years. Again, the time frame is highly dependent upon the species.

Ultimately, for an arthropod, scorpions do live pretty long lives. In general, they typically live an average of five years, although there are some that can live between ten to fifteen years!

how big do scorpions get

How big do scorpions get?

Here’s another question where the answer will vary based upon the species. For instance, Dictator, Emperor and Asian Forest scorpions all grow relatively large. On the other hand, many of the species that belong to the taxonomic family Buthidae tend to be quite small.

The average scorpion size is six centimeters, or just over two inches. Some are much smaller and some are much larger. If you are interested in a particular species as a pet, we advise researching that species’ size at maturity prior to purchasing so that you can be sure you are buying the correct size enclosure.

Where do scorpions live?

Scorpions can be found the world over in different environments including the desert and even semi-urban areas. In fact, exterminators are actually trained to handle removing scorpions from homes because in some areas they are considered dangerous pests.

Typically, scorpions can be found living solitarily underneath rocks, bark, wood and other objects that sit upon the ground. They like to feel hidden and safe during the day and emerge after the sun goes down to find food.

If you live in an area where scorpions are commonly found indoors (such as Arizona in the U.S.), they will likely take refuge in firewood, under boards or in bathrooms. They can also be partial to cupboards and pantries since they are dark and have objects to hide behind and underneath.

are scorpions dangerous

Are scorpions dangerous?

Most species of scorpion are not lethal to humans. However, all scorpions have tail stingers that are venomous and they can bite. More often than not, these bites and stings will only cause localized pain at the site of the injury, but that can be vastly different if you happen to have an allergy to scorpion venom. Children and older adults are the most at risk.

Most of the species that people commonly keep as pets are larger and tend to be slower to sting. They usually have more docile dispositions as well.

Interestingly enough, it tends to be true that the smaller the scorpion species, the more venomous it is. And the species that have larger pincer claws such as Emperor scorpions and Asian Forest scorpions tend to have less potent stings.

So, yes, theoretically all scorpions are dangerous. But the commonly kept pet species are not lethal to people unless you happen to have an allergy. People who have been stung by their pet scorpions have compared the pain and after effects as similar to a bee sting.

Where can I get a pet scorpion?

Some people are lucky enough to be able to step outside and collect a wild scorpion as a pet! But, we advise against this for multiple reasons.

Specialty pet stores often sell the more common scorpion species. And reptile expos and shows are also great places to acquire a pet scorpion. Both of these are great options because you can see the animal beforehand and get a feel for its personality.

Scorpions are also really resilient creatures and do very well with being shipped overnight to new homes. This means that you can safely order a pet scorpion online from Backwater Reptiles or another breeder of your choice.

Conclusion

While we don’t have all the questions you might possibly have about scorpions listed or discussed in this article, we do hope that we’ve covered the basics. We get a lot of queries about this invertebrate because people are interested in owning one, but want to do research prior to purchasing. And we are one hundred percent on board with that.

We hope that we’ve helped you gain a better understanding of this sometimes misunderstood creature. If you still have any questions that we didn’t cover in this article, let us know in the comments!

Don’t miss our other scorpion-related articles, including:

The most popular pet scorpions

How to set up a scorpion habitat

How to pick up a scorpion

What is Reptile Enrichment

~ BackwaterReptiles

What is reptile enrichment? 

Many zoos provide enrichment for their captive animals. Essentially, enrichment is entertainment in the form of activities, puzzles or special playtime. The idea is to make sure that captive animals don’t feel bored or stressed. In terms of reptiles kept as pets, enrichment can mean many things and we’ll discuss what those things entail and what you as a reptile owner can do to provide enrichment.

Minnesota Zoo Snake Climbing Board
This Hog Island Boa is enjoying a climbing board at the Minnesota Zoo.

What counts as enrichment?

It might seem strange, but reptiles can get bored. It’s true that repetition helps train them and domesticate them, but our herp friends still need to break up the monotony of captivity. That’s where enrichment comes into play.

Technically, in the context of pet reptiles, enrichment involves several elements. In terms of habitat, it can be defined as enhancing or creating an environment that most accurately mimics that of the wild. In terms of behaviors, it can mean providing your pet with the ability to make choices and perform species-specific activities and instinctive behaviors. 

Interestingly enough, enrichment can be anything from the type of food you give your herp to the décor in its cage. It also involves the time you spend with your pet and the opportunities you provide to get outdoors.

Does my reptile need enrichment?

The answer we would like to give to this question is of course, yes. However, truthfully, many species of reptile and amphibian actually don’t need a whole lot of material possessions or maintenance to thrive and be healthy. We are just of the mindset that any pet you own should be given the best care and that means providing experiences that give meaning and for lack of a better term, fun, to your pet’s daily existence. 

Most herps really only require a few things to do well as pets: a cage, substrate, food, water, a hide space, and some lighting and/or heat source. Enrichment is simply any extra attention you provide to the environment and your pet.

And we want to be clear that there are certain species that are more “intelligent” or interactive that should definitely be provided with enrichment. These include the larger species that shouldn’t always be kept in a tank such as crocodilians, fully grown iguanas, tegus, large pythons and boas, and grown monitors. Other smart species that we feel should have special enrichment features include but are not limited to: bearded dragons, tortoises (particularly large sulcatas), and chameleons.

feeding enrichment at London Zoo
These tortoises are enjoying feeding enrichment. Not only do they have a variety of tasty food to consume, they are also being encouraged to practice natural behaviors that would allow them to obtain the food in the wild.

Ideas for reptile enrichment at home 

The type of enrichment you choose for your herp will vary widely based upon what species you own and how well that particular species interacts with humans on a personal level. Some species such as dart frogs, will be provided enrichment mainly in the form of habitat naturalization. Other species, such as tegus, iguanas or bearded dragons are a lot more people-friendly and will have a wide range of enrichments that the owner can provide.

Below are some very general ideas that you might wish to try out as enrichment for your own pet:

Snake enrichment 

It might seem like snakes wouldn’t require much in the form of enrichment. After all, they don’t even have limbs. But, there is one very easy element that most owners can provide that works for almost all arboreal snake species – climbing furniture! You can purchase special items made to put in an enclosure to climb on or you can find your own natural sticks. Some zoos have even created special climbing boards for their larger snakes that resemble Plinko games. The snakes are let loose and allowed to climb the wall by utilizing the pegs that stick out.

Another simple way to add enrichment to your snake’s life is to allow it to explore outdoors (under close supervision of course). Many ball pythons and large boas truly enjoy soaking up the sunshine while crawling through the grass.

Lizard enrichment

Nearly any lizard enclosure can be enriched by making it appear as naturalistic as possible. For tropical species, this could include adding backdrops, living plants, water pools and very moist substrate. Some larger species with large, custom built cages will even enjoy mini waterfalls.

If you have a large lizard such as a fully grown iguana, tegu or monitor, we highly advise that they spend a fair amount of time outside their enclosure.

Tegus can enjoy leash walks, believe it or not. They often behave like puppies and enjoy going places with their owner and quickly learn that leashes are non-threatening. Tegus are also very smart and sometimes learn to play simple games that are based upon sharpening natural behaviors.

Iguanas can be a bit more temperamental, but they still enjoy a good soak in the sunshine. They also usually have very healthy appetites so providing enrichment in the form of a very varied diet is an option.

Amphibian enrichment

Amphibians are the toughest to provide enrichment for. Most frogs, toads and salamanders don’t enjoy being handled by people, so enrichment typically comes in the form of treat food and specialty enclosures.

Many people enjoy crafting a tank that mimics wild environments. Not only does the amphibian enjoy it, but the owner usually gets pleasure from the aesthetic beauty of it.

Meal time enrichment can come in the form of a varied diet of treats and staple foods. Some owners also allow natural feeding methods rather than tong-feeding or dish feeding.

tortoise enrichment
These tortoises are enjoying leafy greens through a special ball. The ball encourages natural picking and foraging techniques while eating.

Conclusion

Just like we try to keep our furry friends entertained and happy with toys, treats and outings, we should also strive to provide entertainment in the form of enrichment to our reptilian and amphibian pals.

Although most herps don’t require a lot of space or engagement, it is important to break up the monotony of captivity. We recommend using treat food items, interacting with your pet outside the enclosure if possible, and maybe even playing some games with your pet if they are willing and able. Taking your reptile or amphibian outdoors for some sunshine also counts as enrichment! 

How to Care for Your Crested Gecko

crested gecko care sheet
~ BackwaterReptiles

How do you care for a crested gecko?

Crested geckos are becoming more sought after in the herpetology world, although they are still not as popular as their common cousin, the leopard gecko. We feel that crested geckos make excellent pets, but since they do require a bit more specific care, we’re going to discuss how to care for your pet crested gecko in this article.

crested gecko care sheet
Crested geckos make excellent pets.

What exactly is a crested gecko?

Crested Geckos (Rhacodactylus ciliatus) are a species of fancy-looking gecko that originate from New Caledonia. They are arboreal and are known for their cute appearance. Not only do these lizards possess the standard gecko stickiness that people are so fond of, they have distinctive ridges that run the length of their back up to their eyes where they form spiky little eyelashes.

Herp hobbyists often call crested geckos Cresties and they reach about eight inches in total length. They are also commonly bred in captivity which means they can be purchased from specialty breeders in many morphs and color schemes.

Cresties also have fun personalities. They can be super sweet and cuddly or somewhat stubborn and even a tad aggressive. Overall, they do tend to socialize well with people and they make great display animals that also enjoy being handled.

Fun fact about crested geckos: they can live up to 20 years in captivity when cared for properly.

What kind of cage and lighting will my crested gecko need?

Because crested geckos are arboreal creatures, you will need a taller cage rather than a cage with horizontal space. We advise at least a 20 gallon enclosure for a single adult lizard. Cages with screen tops are usually preferred.

Most owners like to create a naturalistic environment for their crested gecko. You can achieve this with living or faux plants in the enclosure. If you have a green thumb, real plants are great, but faux plants work fine for the purposes of allowing your gecko a place to climb, hide and entertain itself. We also advise adding some element of cork or wood that enables the gecko to climb and camouflage as well. Just keep in mind that you don’t want the tank to contain too much furniture or decor.

During the daylight hours, cresties like the temperature to be between 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temps can drop to the 70s range. You can achieve this by using a combination of heat and UV lamps and heating pads. We always advise investing in a good thermometer when owning any species of reptile. This will help you to monitor and maintain comfortable temps for your pet.

Always keep in mind when placing heating elements in your crested gecko’s enclosure that one side of the cage needs to remain cooler to allow your gecko to thermoregulate. You must create a warmer basking side and allow for the other area of the cage to be colder. Like any human, the gecko will choose to be warmer or cooler depending upon its needs.

It’s important to line your crested gecko’s cage with the proper kind of substrate. We typically use coconut husk and soil mixture as it makes it easier to maintain a good humidity level. Other good options are paper towels or reptile carpet if you don’t mind the minimalist, non-natural look.

One final element that is important to keeping your crestie healthy is moisture. Humidity levels should be no lower than 50 percent and ideally stay around 70 percent. This can be achieved through a humidifier, spritzing the cage regularly with water or through evaporation of moisture from the substrate. It’s all a matter of personal preference that depends largely upon how much time the owner wants to invest in monitoring the gecko’s cage.

handling a crested gecko
Crested geckos are usually calm and don’t mind being held.

What should I feed my pet crested gecko?

Did you know that crested geckos do not need to be fed live insects? Modern science has actually formulated a powdered food that you simply mix with water and put in a dish for your gecko. It’s almost as simple as feeding your cat or dog! These pre-made meals contain everything your crested gecko will need nutritionally to thrive, so they come highly recommended by many owners and breeders. They are also commonly sold in pet stores nowadays as they are such a convenient alternative to live insects.

If you happen to own a crested gecko that is not captive bred, it might be a bit tougher to get the gecko to eat food out of a dish. Not to worry! In this case, just feed your gecko a mixture of live insects such as crickets, mealworms, wax worms and roaches. You should also offer fruit as a treat. Not only is it good for the gecko’s diet, it’s very entertaining to watch them eat it.

Drinking water is something that your crested gecko should always have access to. Simply provide a shallow water dish for your gecko that is always clean and free of debris. Misting and allowing water to collect on leaves and fixtures is also acceptable in addition to a water dish.

What happens if my crested gecko loses its tail?

Like many species of lizard, crested geckos can drop their tail if its necessary. This is a defense mechanism and allows them to flee from predators unscathed.

Unlike many other species, the tail of a crested gecko will not grow back. Once a crested gecko loses its tail, it becomes known as a “frogbutt” and will simply have a stump on its rear-end for the rest of its life. We think they look rather cute this way, although we don’t advise purposefully making your gecko drop its tail since it can be a sign of stress on the animal.

If you are interested in learning what to do if your own pet crested gecko loses its tail, feel free to read our article discussing that very subject.

Once a crested gecko loses its tail, it is gone for life. The gecko is only affected cosmetically and now has the honor of being known as a “frogbutt” gecko.

Conclusion

Crested geckos are unique little lizards with a lot to offer potential owners. They are very adorable and have quirky personalities once you get to know them. We also like the fact that they exhibit a variety of patterns, colorations and morphs.

If you are interested in a pet crested gecko of your own, Backwater Reptiles has crested geckos for sale. We recommend getting a baby because it’s so much fun to watch them grow up.

~ BackwaterReptiles

What are the best pet aquatic frogs?

We’ve already discussed the best pet terrestrial frogs and the best pet arboreal frogs. In this article, we’ll dive into the topic of the best pet aquatic frogs. In our opinion, three amphibians make the best aquatic pet frogs – Budgett’s frogs, Surinam toads and Fire-bellied toads.

Budgett’s Frogs as pets

Budgett’s frogs are also commonly known as Freddy Krueger frogs, but their scientific name is Lepidobatrachus laevis. No matter what name this species goes by, we’re sure you’ll never forget about them once you’ve had the chance to learn more.

We’ll wager that the first thing you notice about the Budgett’s frog is its comical appearance. Due to their aquatic lifestyle, these frogs are semi blob-like. They have rounded and jiggly bodies with small legs, bulbous eyes on top of their heads, and extra long fingers that helped them achieve their alternate name of Freddy Kruger frog.

This species of frog is highly known for its piercing shrieks and grunts and its intimidating attitude. When it feels threatened, the Budgett’s frog will open its mouth very wide and show off its two sharp teeth. They also inflate sort of like a balloon in order to make themselves appear larger and more threatening to potential predators.

Budgett’s frogs can grow to be quite large, however interestingly enough, their enclosure doesn’t need to be big in order for them to thrive. We do highly advise keeping them separately from one another though as they are prone to cannibalism.

Although they are big eaters, Budgett’s don’t require much in terms of aquariums/enclosures to keep them happy. They should have warm water in the 77 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit range, little or no substate, lightweight or minimal cage decor and a platform that allows them to completely leave the water if they so choose.

Despite the fact that they don’t require much in terms of maintenance and care, we do advise that you have some prior experience with amphibians, preferably those with primarily aquatic lifestyles before owning a Budgett’s frog. They do require a clean tank and water and lots of food, they live 15 to 20 years, plus they grow quickly, so we recommend doing your research and making an informed decision about whether or not you can properly care for a Budgett’s frog.

If you have decided you are ready to own a Freddy Krueger frog of your own, Backwater Reptiles sells them. Rest assured that you will be receiving a healthy frog with proven Frog Ranch genetics.

budgets frogs as pets
This photo shows the stumpy, blob-like appearance of the Budgett’s frog. They are almost so ugly that they become cute. Wouldn’t you agree?

Surinam Toads as pets

It’s splitting hairs whether or not you consider the Surinam Toad (Pipa pipa) a frog, but either way, it is most certainly an amphibian. And this amphibian also makes for an incredibly cool aquatic pet.

The first thing you are likely to notice about the Surinam toad is its bizarre appearance. These toads are flat with triangular heads, itty bitty eyes and long fingers. They have been described as resembling frog roadkill. Their flattened appearance is perfect for their aquatic environment where they spend most of their time attempting to mimic dead leaves on the bottom of bodies of water. In other words, they most certainly do not resemble traditional toads or frogs upon first glance.

The reproductive habits of these toads is what makes them truly unique and amazing. After an intricate mating ritual, female toads develop a thick skin on their backs where fertilized eggs attach and embed themselves. Once the baby toads are ready to hatch, froglets emerge straight from the skin of the mother’s back leaving behind large holes.

In reality, Surinam toads are not very active pets. In addition to being fully aquatic, they honestly don’t do much other than sit around. They are a lot more active during mating rituals, but during most of the year they simply float or sit in the water and swim to the top for air every 15 to 30 minutes. The exception is when they are eating. They are ambush predators and when prey is near their mouth, the explode and essentially inhale their prey item. It’s quite fun to watch.

If you are prepared to house a fully aquatic toad and you might even be interested in a pair to try and breed, Backwater Reptiles has Surinam Toads for sale. You can also learn more about how to care for this bizarre-looking toad by reading our blog article dedicated to them.

surinam toad appearance
Surinam toads are flat and pointy with eyes the size of pinheads. They are truly a sight to behold.

Fire Bellied Toads as pets

Interestingly enough, because they are such commonly kept beginner frogs, fire bellied toads (Bombina orientalis) are often looked down upon within the herp enthusiast community. But we think they actually have quite a bit to offer, whether you’re new to keeping amphibians or not.

The first thing we think is awesome about fire bellied toads is that they are diurnal, or active during the day. This might not seem like a big deal, but most amphibians are actually secretive and prefer to come out when it’s dark. Being diurnal can be cool because it actually allows you to observe your pet’s behavior and get to know its personality and quirks.

Fire bellied toads are also very forgiving when it comes to habitat. They are easy to maintain and can acclimate, even if their owner unintentionally makes mistakes. This makes them excellent options for beginners or children learning to care for their first non-furry pet.

This hardy amphibian gets its common name from its bright orange/red tummy which indicates to potential predators that it is harmful to eat. It secretes a toxin from its skin that makes it unappetizing to anything that would try to eat it. But not to worry – unless you are eating your pet, the secretions from its skin are not harmful to humans.

Another reason fire bellied toads are so popular is that they are actually very easy to come by. Many pet stores carry them and they are relatively inexpensive. Again, they make excellent beginner pets.

If you are interested in owning a fire bellied toad of your own, but you want to learn more about how to care for one, feel free to check out our blog article dedicated to this very topic.

fore bellied toad underside
This photo shows off the lovely black and orange/red mottled underside of the fire bellied toad. This coloration is actually how this species got its common name.

Conclusion

Whether you prefer to call them frogs or toads, in our opinion, Budgett’s frogs, Surinam toads and Fire-bellied toads make the best aquatic pet frogs.

Each species we discussed in this article is unique and quirky. Maybe you’re drawn to Budgett’s frogs because of their nearly amorphous shape. Or maybe you like the colorful tummies of fire-bellied toads. No matter which species on this list is your favorite, we’re comfortable saying that each of these three amphibians makes a great pet for families or individuals in the market for an aquatic frog.