Author: BackwaterReptiles

What Do White’s Tree Frogs Eat?

~ BackwaterReptiles

Are you considering getting a White’s tree frog for a pet, but you’re unsure what to feed it?

White’s tree frogs eat insects. In captivity, this means they will eat a wide variety of feeder insects including crickets, roaches, worms and other bugs. Ultimately, the insects you choose to feed your White’s tree frog is up to you, but a varied diet is always beneficial.

This species of frog is so popular that it made our list of the best pet tree frogs.

what do whites tree frogs eat
In the above picture, you can see two blue-eyed White’s, a special morph that we offer for sale.

What type of insects should I feed my White’s tree frog?

White’s tree frogs, AKA Dumpy tree frogs, are insectivores. They only eat living insects. This means that you as an owner are free to choose from a variety of feeder insects to fulfill your frog’s dietary needs.

The most commonly available feeder insect is crickets. You can find feeder crickets at commercial pet stores, feed stores and through online vendors. The main thing to take into consideration when feeding your White’s tree frog crickets is the size of the crickets.

A baby frog cannot eat a full grown cricket and likewise adult frogs should not be eating baby or pinhead crickets as their primary food source. You want to get a cricket that your frog can comfortably eat that will satisfy its appetite.

While crickets do make great staple food for White’s tree frogs, we also recommend Dubia roaches if you have a good supplier. These roaches are very high in nutrients and pack quite the punch when it comes to keeping your frog fed and happy. Again, since roaches are available in many sizes, the only thing we’d mention that you need to be aware of is the size of the roach you will be giving to your frog.

Other great options for White’s tree frogs are reptiworms, wax worms, hornworms and mealworms. All of these insects will squirm or move about in a manner that triggers your frog’s feeding response. We recommend that if you want a real show you hand feed using tongs. It can be quite entertaining since Dumpy frogs have large appetites.

feeder roaches
Here are a few different feeder roaches Chelsey is holding.

Should I feed my White’s tree frog vitamin supplements?

In short, the answer is yes!

Most reptiles and amphibians that are kept in captivity do require some amount of additional calcium and vitamin supplements in their diet. White’s tree frogs are no exception.

In our experience, metabolic bone disease and other associated disorders from poor nutrition are less common in pet amphibians than they are in reptiles. However, that does not mean that you should be lax in administering the proper vitamins and nutrients your frog needs.

We recommend dusting your feeder insects with Sticky Tongue Farms’ indoor supplement at least once weekly, if not more. Younger frogs should be given dusted insects every feeding, but as your frogs mature, you can dust less frequently.

supplements for whites tree frogs

How often should I feed my pet White’s tree frog?

Baby frogs should be fed at least once daily. Since most owners will likely be feeding crickets, we do advise that you either tong feed them or place a very limited number of crickets in the cage at any given time. You do not want the cage overrun with crickets as they can actually injure the frog. If you find your frog hasn’t eaten, we advise trying again in the evening when the frog will be most active.

Juvenile to adult frogs don’t need to be offered food as frequently as babies do. We still usually feed them every day until they are considered subadults. At this life stage, we typically feed them three times per week or about every other day.

The key to health when it comes to frequency of feedings is to note your frog’s weight. Dumpy frogs can easily become overweight if you allow them to. Watch closely to see how bulgy your frog’s tummy is and how much padding it seems to have on its face and leg areas. Obesity is not healthy, but obviously neither is being too thin.

dumpy frog food

Where can I find insects for my White’s tree frog to eat?

Most commercial pet stores will have a few sizes of crickets on hand for reptiles. They often also have live mealworms. However, don’t buy prepackaged dead insects such as flies or crickets for your White’s tree frog. Your frog will simply not eat dead bugs.

If you want to conveniently obtain a variety of feeder insects for your frog, we do recommend ordering feeder insects online. Backwater Reptiles sells a wide variety of feeder insects in bulk quantities to last longer. Our feeders include a variety of sizes of crickets, roaches, reptiworms, fruit flies, hornworms, mealworms and wax worms to name a few.

Will White’s tree frogs eat mice?

Yes, adult White’s tree frogs can and will eat baby mice. In fact, it’s a great treat for them and can boost their growth noticeably. I wouldn’t recommend it more than once every week or two. If you feed them baby rodents too often, they’ll get obese and it’ll end up shortening their lifespan.

Conclusion

White’s tree frogs like to eat and will accept a broad range of insects at mealtime. Crickets are the most commonly used feeder insect for this species of frog, but we highly encourage owners to branch out and utilize other types of feeder insects for different nutritional value.

No matter what type of insect you feed your White’s tree frog, make sure that you have an appropriate vitamin supplement on hand to dust them with. It’s essential for your frog’s best health.

If you ever have any questions about what type of insect or what size feeder insect you should buy for your pet White’s tree frog, you can reach out to our friendly customer service team by emailing sales@backwaterreptiles.com.

If you’re interested in getting your own captive bred White’s tree frog, you can buy one of our’s by clicking this link. We have snowflakes, blue-eyed, and greens available, and all are produced by the world renowned Frog Ranch.

Common Reptile Husbandry Mistakes

~ BackwaterReptiles

What mistakes do people commonly make when it comes to reptile husbandry?

Reptiles are considered exotic pets and as such they do have specific and special care requirements. Although most pet owners do want to take the best care possible of their reptile, there are many common mistakes that are made when trying to do so. This article will touch upon the most common mistakes we see at Backwater Reptiles and what you should be doing instead.

common reptile husbandry mistakes

Temperature and Humidity

Did you know that temperature and humidity are one of the toughest environmental factors to get right when it comes to captive conditions? Different reptile species originate from different environments and therefore have varying preferences when it comes to ideal temperature and humidity.

Keep one thing in mind when adjusting temperature and humidity levels – search engines are your friend! If you are unsure what a good range is for your particular pet, we advise that you do a simple search. There are many breeders, pet stores and hobbyists with websites and articles to help you find out what your pet needs.

It’s also relatively easy to know if your reptile needs adjustments made. Reptiles who don’t have enough humidity in their environment will have issues shedding. For instance, snakes will not shed in a complete tube or will retain their eye caps. Lizards will seem to be in a constant state of shed. There are other warning signs as well including dullness or lack of color.

Utilize misters, thermometers and heat elements such as lamps in order to create the proper equilibrium for your particular animal.

Handling and Human Interaction

Pet reptiles are not domesticated. We repeat – pet reptiles ARE NOT domesticated animals.

This means that many of them do not enjoy being removed from their enclosure to be “played with.” It will only stress them out unnecessarily. There are quite a few species of reptile that do just fine interacting with people including: bearded dragons, ball pythons, most tortoises, leopard geckos, corn snakes, savannah monitors and crested geckos. However, there are many species that people acquire that we personally feel are best left as ornamental pets.

While it is true that many reptiles can be worked with to become accustomed to people, we do advise that you read your pet’s body language closely before you handle it constantly. Bottom line: Not all reptiles like being petted, held or touched.

use discretion when handling reptiles

Diet and Providing Supplements

Truthfully, most pet reptiles require supplements in order to stay at peak health in captivity. The only exception to this is snakes which receive total nutrition from their prey.

Most people might not even be aware that reptiles need vitamins. Calcium and vitamin D are extremely important, particularly when it comes to bone health and growth. We advise that you dust your feeder insects accordingly with an appropriate supplement depending on whether your pet is indoor or outdoor.

You should also keep in mind dietary requirements when preparing your reptile’s meals. For instance, most reptiles commonly kept as pets are insectivores, but some are vegetarians and some are omnivores and need a mixture of vegetation and animal protein in their diet. Don’t make the mistake of giving too much protein to an omnivore – this can be disastrous on their liver.

We also advise that you mix up the type of insects you feed your pet. Crickets and roaches are great staples, but there are advantages to other feeder insects. Depending upon the species, sometimes rodents or eggs are a good addition as well. Variety is key and all too often we see people trying to feed their reptile the same food over and over to the point where the animal wants something else and goes on a hunger strike.

Miner-All by Sticky Tongue Farms is by far the best calcium/D3 supplement in our experience. It’s preferred by top breeders and zoos around the world.

UV Lighting Requirements

Did you know that some reptiles absolutely require full-spectrum UV lighting in order to be healthy? Other species do not necessarily require it.

Over the years, we’ve learned that many people make the mistake of not providing proper UV rays. This can result in metabolic bone disease among other health issues.

In order to avoid making this mistake, we always suggest that you research the pet you want before you purchase. Take note of whether or not it needs UV rays, heat lamps or both.

In general, most lizards, tortoises and turtles require full-spectrum lighting. There are of course exceptions and this is where knowledge and research come into play.

Most snakes don’t require UV lighting, but this is not a hard and fast rule. For instance, some people choose to provide UV lighting for corn snakes, but other breeders swear it’s not necessary. If there is debate as to whether or not your particular pet should have UV lighting, our recommendation is to provide it for the sake of safety. In other words, better to be safe than sorry when it comes to this common mistake.

The Correct Type of Enclosure

Another very common mistake we often see is people buying the wrong kind of tank, vivarium or enclosure for their reptile. Size, orientation, and lifestyle are all elements that need to be taken into consideration when choosing an enclosure.

For example, chameleons require a very specific type of cage that allows for air flow and ventilation while maintaining adequate humidity and moisture levels. This is why we always recommend mesh enclosures for chameleons of all species, excluding pygmy chameleons.

Another factor that owners often fail to take into account is the lifestyle of their pet. For example, you wouldn’t want to provide an aquatic or even semi-aquatic environment for a desert lizard such as a uromastyx. Furthermore, animals with arboreal lifestyles need climbing room and accessories, so their cages need to be vertically oriented. It’s a very common mistake to think in terms of human comforts and give an arboreal animal a cage with lots of floor space but little upward mobility room.

Substrate is also a very important housing element that many people get incorrect. We’ll chalk this mistake up to the seemingly endless options for substrate and the debate amongst owners as to what works best for their animals in their own homes. Keep in mind that most substrates are recommended, leaving lots of room for error.

One substrate mistake we see over and over is ingestion by the animal. If your substrate is too small or you are feeding your pet within its enclosure, there is always the opportunity for accidental ingestion. Over time, this can cause health problems such as impaction.

Ultimately, when it comes to substrate, we recommend simple, easy to clean and practical options. Choose something that will allow your pet to perform its natural activities (i.e. burrowing) but also make sure that it won’t get in the way.

Finally, some owners make the mistake of over decorating their reptile’s enclosure. In truth, barer is better when it comes to reptile husbandry. Unless you are dedicating an entire room or creating a special bioenclosure with lots of bells and whistles, most reptiles need the bare minimum to stay happy and healthy.

For example, since your reptile’s enclosure should have a hot, basking side and a cooler, ambient temp side, we do advise that you provide two hide spots. If your reptile is arboreal, some items to climb on are necessary. A water dish is another cage furniture item that is necessary for most reptiles too. But other than these mentioned items, cage decor and furniture should be minimal, lightweight and easy to clean. This is for the safety of the animal. Too much decor could crush your pet or injure it accidentally.

reptile cage decor

Cleanliness

It might seem like common sense, but reptile homes need cleaning just like human homes.

While it’s not a necessity to clean water spots off of glass tanks, it is necessary to remove fecal matter and shed skin. You wouldn’t want to live in your own waste, so why would your pet?

It’s a very common mistake to think that reptile cages don’t need cleaning simply because reptiles are typically low maintenance pets. You don’t need to scrub and disinfect your pet’s cage every week, but spot cleaning is essential and full tank cleaning should be done as needed.

specialty cages for baby chameleons

Conclusion

Now that we’ve outlined and discussed some of the biggest mistakes we see new reptile owners make, we hope it might help you avoid making the same errors.

Luckily, if something does need to be corrected, your reptile’s behavior will typically let you know. And most of these common husbandry mistakes are very simple to rectify if you catch them in a reasonable amount of time.

What Gender is My Tarantula?

~ BackwaterReptiles

How do I know what gender my pet tarantula is?

It’s very easy to determine the gender of a cat, dog or other mammal commonly kept as a pet. However, arachnids don’t have discernible external markers that clearly determine their gender.

It takes a bit more detective work to find out what the sex of your tarantula is. Here’s a hint: you’ll need to keep your spider’s molted exoskeleton!

what gender is my tarantula

What traits can I use to help identify the gender of my tarantula?

While it’s really only useful to very experienced tarantula keepers, it is possible to examine the underside of a tarantula’s abdomen to help assess gender. However, this requires very good eyesight, a lot of experience and a calm spider that will allow you to turn it over without stress or retaliation.

It’s also necessary to have a spider with a leg span of at least two inches. We do not advise using this method to determine spider gender for those reasons.

If you have a fully mature tarantula, you can also use identifying traits that only males possess to help determine gender. For instance, most male tarantulas develop what are known as “boxing gloves” and tibial hooks on their legs.

They will also be longer and lankier-looking in appearance than females. Again, we’d like to mention that these traits take time and experience to recognize and are not usually a good method of determine gender for most owners.

Size is another trait that can be used when you are looking at a mature tarantula. Females tend to be larger and they also live much longer than males. This makes them quite prized in the hobbyist community. However, this trait is not helpful when you are dealing with juvenile spiders that have not undergone many molts.

juvenile tarantula

How do I use my tarantula’s molted exoskeleton to determine its gender?

Be aware that in tact molts can be a little hard to acquire. As soon as your spider has finished molting, you will want to secure the molt while it is still semi-pliable. If you allow the molt to dry out for too long, it can crumble when you try to look more closely at it.

Once you have your molt handy, you need to look between the first set of book lungs or respiratory organs. Female spiders will have a spermathecae, which is a special organ where the female stores sperm until she is ready to lay eggs. Males lack this organ and the molt will appear smooth in this area.

Not all spermathecae look the same in different spider species. For most species, it looks like a flap or small protrusions. Again, you will know you have a male spider if it is flat and smooth in the area between the book lungs.

Be mindful that examining a tarantula’s molt is the only tried and true method to determine gender accurately and without fail. You can most certainly use other indicators to make educated guesses, however molts are the best way to know whether or not you have a male or female spider.

mature mexican fireleg tarantula

When is my tarantula old enough to find out its gender?

There is currently no known and reliable method to determine the gender of a baby tarantula or spiderling. Not only are they very hard to keep still, they are even tougher to visually examine closely enough to make any type of assessment.

Spiderlings have also not fully developed their sex organs yet, so more molts are necessary before you can examine either the spider itself or its exoskeletons for traits to determine gender.

Usually, you can begin to determine the gender of the spider when you notice that it is large enough to leave behind a fully intact molt. In order to accurately find out if your spider is male or female, you will need to look at and handle the molt very closely. So the larger the molt, in theory, the easier you can determine gender.

tarantula molting

Conclusion

Unfortunately, you can’t find out the gender of your pet tarantula by turning it upside down and examining its abdomen. Spiders that are commonly kept as pets simply don’t possess traits that would easily identify them as male or female the way that most mammals do.

In order to find out whether your tarantula is a boy or a girl, you will need to wait until the spider has matured a bit. You will also need to keep a shed exoskeleton so that you can examine it closely.

So, unless you already know the gender of your spider, we highly recommend giving it a gender neutral name!

You can view the wonderful list of tarantulas we have for sale by clicking this link.

What Do Snakes Eat?

~ BackwaterReptiles

What do snakes eat? Do they all eat the same thing? What should I feed my own pet snake?

Unlike other reptiles, snakes as a whole tend to eat the same types of things – other living creatures. No snake species is vegetarian. The types of food that snakes eat varies but primarily includes: rodents, fish, small reptiles and amphibians, and insects.

what do snakes eat

What do constrictors eat?

The group of snakes dubbed constrictors are the species that squeeze their prey to death before eating. The snake first wraps its coils around its prey and then each time the prey exhales, it tightens its grip, causing its prey to eventually suffocate. Snakes that constrict include but are not necessarily limited to boas, pythons, anacondas and many colubrid species.

In captivity, most constrictors eat rodents. In fact, there are entire refrigerators full of frozen mice and rats in pet stores that are just for reptiles like snakes. Some pickier snakes will only eat live rodents, although we always recommend using frozen rodents if possible. It’s simply safer, more sanitary and less hassle for both owner and snake.

In the wild, constrictors will capture and eat mice, rats, shrews, voles, squirrels and other small mammals. The tropical and arboreal constrictor species tend to eat whatever they can catch including birds, mammals and other reptiles.

constrictors eat mice
This boa is eating a mouse.

What do aquatic snakes eat?

When we speak of aquatic snakes, we are really only referring to a select few species such as elephant trunk snakes, sea snakes and water snakes.

Sea snakes are highly venomous and not kept in captivity, however they eat fish, fish eggs and eels.

Other aquatic species eat aquatic or semi-aquatic fare. Feeder frogs, feeder fish and crayfish are all options when keeping aquatic snakes as pets.

Be advised that aquatic snakes should not eat rodents and we do not recommend trying to feed these kinds of snakes mice or rats.

aquatic snake diet
Water snakes like the one pictured eat primarily feeder fish and frogs when kept as pets.

What do very small snake species eat?

Some species of snake are very small and all the previous prey items mentioned are simply too large for them to eat. Small snake species that are commonly kept as pets include Bimini blind snakes, ringneck snakes, baby Dekay’s snakes and baby ribbon snakes.

Tiny snakes eat tiny food. In captivity, tiny food is typically invertebrates of some sort. Crickets, nightcrawlers, roaches and mealworms at their smallest life cycle phase are definitely all commonly used food items.

small snake diet
Tiny snakes like the one pictured typically eat small insects and worms.

What should I feed my own pet snake?

In general, if you are buying a pet snake and wondering what it eats, the answer is very likely to be mice. Most snakes will thrive on a diet of frozen/thawed rodents of the appropriate size. For instance, at the Backwater Reptiles facility, we feed our ball pythons, boa constrictors, king snakes, corn snakes, milk snakes and rat snakes mice…and that’s just naming broad categories!

There are a few other snake species that commonly eat food other than rodents. For instance, ribbon snakes and garter snakes both eat prey such as frogs, insects, lizards and fish.

Hognose snakes will often eat mice in captivity, but if they prove to be a picky eater, it’s because they typically eat toads and frogs in the wild. One wacky tip that actually works if you have a picky hognose snake is to “scent” mice by rubbing them with a toad or frog. You can also try soaking a thawed rodent in tuna water.

Another popular snake species is the green snake. These snakes are primarily insectivores in the wild and make great pets for people who want a snake that doesn’t eat rodents. You can feed your green snake the same diet they’d eat in the wild – grasshoppers, crickets, worms, caterpillars, snails, small frogs and feeder lizards.

Very large snakes are another specialty feeder. All of the snakes that grow to enormous sizes are constrictors. Anacondas, Burmese pythons and reticulated pythons that are mature will all require larger prey. Usually they eat rabbits, but some owners have found the giving them multiple feeder rats in a single feeding session also works.

anaconda diet
Snakes that grow very large like the yellow anaconda pictured will eventually need to eat larger prey items such s rabbits.

Finally, we feel that egg-eating snakes deserve a mention on this list. Their common name actually gives away what their food of choice is – eggs! However, please keep in mind that egg-eating snakes usually eat small bird eggs like quail or finch eggs. An egg out of your refrigerator won’t cut it.

ribbon snake diet
Ribbon snakes eat night crawlers, insects and frogs when they grow larger.

Conclusion

Most pet snakes eat rodents. Most will also thrive on a diet of frozen/thawed rodents. However, if you are going to own a pet snake that is known to eat mice, we do advise that you be prepared to feed it living rodents in the event that it is a picky eater.

There are other species of pet snakes that don’t eat mice. These include water snakes, egg-eating snakes and other specialty species.

Ultimately, no matter what your pet snake eats, it doesn’t need to eat every day the way that mammals do. Snakes have much slower metabolisms and therefore usually only need to be fed once a week or so. We always advise that you research your pet of interest before purchasing to be sure that you are prepared to care for its needs, including its diet.

hognose snake diet
Hognose snakes can be picky eaters and sometimes need to be tricked or trained to eat rodents in captivity.

What is the Proper Temperature and Humidity for your Reptile?

~ BackwaterReptiles

What temperature should your pet reptile’s cage be? How much humidity should their enclosure contain?

Two key elements of proper herp husbandry involve maintaining appropriate temperatures and humidity levels. These levels obviously vary widely between species, so in this article we will discuss how to know what the proper levels for your pet should be and how to make changes to these variables if necessary.

proper temperature and humidity levels
Pictured are custom cages made for baby Parson’s Chameleons. Chameleons are advanced when it comes to temperature and humidity requirements. We typically do not recommend them to beginners.

How do I know what the proper temperature for my reptile is?

We’re going to answer this question simply by saying that the right temperature is different for every species. The correct temperature range for a Kenyan Sand Boa is most likely not going to be the exact same for a Red Eye Tree Frog.

The most important thing to know here is that you must look up what temperature range your pet will be most comfortable with and go from there. Research, research, research! The good news is that there are a lot of specific and detailed care sheets available online for most species.

How do I know what the proper humidity range for my reptile is?

Again, humidity levels are going to be variable from species to species. As much as we’d love to provide a set of data that is universal for all herps, this just isn’t the case. Please do research on how moist your pet’s environment should be and make sure you can provide that before you adopt.

Keep in mind that desert animals such as bearded dragons, leopard geckos and many species of tortoise are not going to require too much humidity. Amphibians and other species that thrive in tropical environments – i.e. frogs, salamanders, many species of jungle snakes and chameleons – are going to require habitats with higher humidity levels and much more moisture in their immediate surroundings.

jungle snake species
Snakes species such as this Borneo Blood Python will require more humidity in their environment than desert species.

How do I control temperature and humidity levels within my reptile’s enclosure?

You will need two main tools to measure temperature and humidity.

We recommend that you invest in a thermometer that provides accurate readings. The bare minimum you should use is a temperature gauge that sticks to the wall of the enclosure, although for more complicated set ups, we advise investing in something more accurate.

There are many types of digital thermometers that work great for measuring the temperature within a tank. Some simply provide a reading while others are portable and can use a probe to measure various areas within the enclosure. Another great option is to get a temperature gun. These are not necessarily labelled as thermometers, but they are as simple as point and shoot to obtain a temperature reading anywhere you wish. 

Personally, when it comes to obtaining temperature information, we always like to recommend something portable because it allows for multiple measurements within the same enclosure at different points of interest. For instance, you don’t want a uniform temperature throughout the entire enclosure. You should always have a hotter side with the basking lamps and a cooler side to allow your pet to properly thermoregulate. A portable thermometer allows you to measure each side of the enclosure separately.

Your second absolutely necessary tool is a hygrometer. These are used to measure moisture and humidity levels. If you so choose, you can even invest in a thermometer/hygrometer combo tool. These are actually fairly common since herpetology has become more of a mainstream hobby.

Once you have tools that will provide you with data on your herp’s home, then you can make adjustments accordingly. As temperatures outside and within your home fluctuate, you might have to make adjustments to your reptile’s enclosure as well. Sometimes this can mean misting the enclosure more or less frequently, buying a more powerful heat bulb, or investing in an alternate source of heat such as a heat pad for underneath the tank.

Ultimately, you will get used to adjusting temperature and humidity the longer you own and care for your pet. It will be bit more challenging at first, but once you have a system down, it will not require much maintenance at all.

amphibian humidity levels
Amphibians like this Mole Salamander will require a lot of moisture and humidity in their environment.

What are the signs that I might need to make adjustments to the temperature and/or humidity levels within my reptile’s cage?

One of the first indicators that something is not right with your pet’s environment is a lack of appetite. For instance, if you notice that your pet is suddenly sluggish and avoiding food, it could be a humidity or heat issue.

For certain species, there are telltale signs of dehydration. Even if you provide your pet with a water dish, many herps actually get moisture from their environment and rarely drink water at all. For instance, chameleons won’t recognize a water dish as a source of moisture at all. You will notice their coloration becomes rather dull and their eyes will become sunken if they don’t get enough water. Eventually, they will perish from dehydration before they notice a water dish in their enclosure. When you own a chameleon, you actually have to provide a constant source of dripping or moving water or do lots of misting of the cage so that your pet doesn’t get dehydrated.

For other species, you might notice issues with shedding. If your snake’s substrate doesn’t contain enough moisture, it will shed in pieces rather than one long tube, which is the healthy way. Other animals might have issues with perpetual shed or their scales and coloration might appear dull constantly.

Other signs that you might need to make adjustments include lethargy, secretiveness in the form of burrowing or never emerging from hiding, or lack of waste elimination.

The best way to avoid issues with temperature and humidity are to simply check and adjust frequently.

What are the pet reptiles that have the simplest and easiest temperature and humidity requirements?

Many pet herps have been bred in captivity for generations. They are therefore very forgiving when it comes to temperature and humidity ranges.

Below are a few species that we often recommend for beginners:

  • Bearded dragons
  • Leopard geckos
  • Corn snakes
  • Ball pythons
  • Crested geckos
  • Hognose snakes
  • King snakes
  • Blue Tongue Skinks

Conclusion

Reptiles come from all different types of climates and subclimates. This means that they all have different needs when it comes to temperature and humidity ranges. Desert animals should not have the same humidity levels as a tropical animal.

The single most important piece of advice we want reptile owners to know is that they need to do research and be prepared! There is not a “catch all” temperature or humidity range that works for all pets. Before you acquire any reptile, make sure that you invest in the proper equipment to maintain its habitat requirements. You can check out any of our care sheets or blog articles for reference or you can simply Google the species you are interested in and find information specific to the pet you wish to own. And don’t forget – you can always email our customer service experts at sales@backwaterreptiles.com for information as well!